Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Mauser 98 Bolt Handle

Gentlemen,

I dug out a M-98 that I have had for while. I looked through my pile and found a scope, mount and rings. I mounted and locked everything down. I even lapped the rings! I thought, "I am good"! Then I put the bolt back in, or at least I tried to bolt back in! I then realize, I not so good! I should have checked long before I lock-tited and torqued everything down. A rookie mistake!

My question? What is entailed in changing the bolt handle? I there anyone out there specializing in details like this! I can get taller rings but, I wanted to use a all the components that I already have! Its a 40mm objective and tall rings would leave me with an undesirable height above the bore line!



B King

I last had one done by Mark Skaggs about 1995 or 96?

Mark Skagg's Gunsmithing

A friend had one done by Doug Fincher last year. I think it was $69 including return shipping.

Fincher's Corner

With either one you avoid the wait some places subject you to. They both do quick turnaournd.

While you're at it change the safety too.

do yourself a favor and have a new bolt handle welded on by a professional smith who knows what they are doing.

One would have to use a forward mounted scout scope to avoid reworking the bolt handle.

Men thanks for the feed back......I am new to the M-98 builds! This one(338-06) was already put together when I bought it!

Jkob....fill me in on the differences in safeties!


Again, I am new to the 98 world!

This, the bottom one

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g83/Jkob60/DSCF0095.jpg

Problem is the placement. Commonly done be people that don't really understand the geometry. The handle was done to not need to notch the action at all or much. You can't get a low mounted scope that way. There is no reason to need to get a handle that thin and still not get clearance. That's why you are getting the recommendations to use a smith proficient in mausers.
Don

I understand the safety now! Good pic Jkob! I assume the shroud would need to change to convert to a "Left to right" lever? Now that I study the design, I wonder why it would be designed to rotate in an arch? The ergonomics are definitely more logical for the side moving lever, especially if you had a cheek weld looking at a target!

Don- this must have been a common problem in the past!

Thanks for the posting!


On a totally unrelated subject: Similar to the M-98, I bought a 1903-A3 a few years back mainly for the trigger(Canjar Set)! Its a Flaig Ace- 24"-Heavy Target/Varmit- 22-250 Remington with 1:14" Twist!

What bullets will stabilize? Seems like my other 22-250's have 1:12 which shoots 45-55gr really well.

Any Thoughts?

14 was the standard twist for high velocity 22's back when everyone shot 50 -55 grain bullets and it will handle bullets up to 55 grains just fine. GD

Greydog is correct.
Below are some bolt handles by Dan Armstrong www.accu-tig.com





I don't like a scallop on a bolt to clear the scope.
Check out Dan's website. He is good, quick and reasonable.

Men,

Thanks for the info! There is no question, Dan has done some good looking work! Just like most of the other things in my life, seeing the pics of the square bridge receiver reminds me of another incomplete project I started way back when. I have a Kimber of Oregon Inc. Model 89 BGR in 7MM Mag. I still need to find scope rings to fit!

I will give Dan a shout and see where we wind up!


Thanks for the efforts of posting feedback!

Regards,

Brett

I've had a number of mauser type rifles rebarreled, sporterized for a scope to be installed. As suggested, either have a new bolt handle welded on the bolt or find a gunsmith that knows how to forge the original bolt handle to the shape/height you need to clear your scope. Forging, means the smith heats the bolt handle enough to beat it to the shape/height it needs to be to clear a scope. I've had a couple of times the smith cut and welded on a new bolt handle and he did not remove enough of the metal of original bolt that joined the bolt body....so handle at highest position had a problem clearing the scope.....required me to use scope rings higher than I wanted to use. But, there have been a couple of times, on Swedish bent bolt military mauser type rifles, I could just remove metal from bolt handle that contacted the scope. Never could do this with a German type 98 bent bolt mauser rifle.

To me and maybe only me, the forged bolt handle does not have eye appeal and it ends up being very short.

I believe you are close to Tomball. Do you use the Tomball range?