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Hmm. Might be a tall order in a $300 variable, since the obvious problem is frequent dialing. If you'd be happy with fixed-power, the SWFA SS scopes would work fine and make the $300 limit. But their variables cost more than that.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Hmm. Might be a tall order in a $300 variable, since the obvious problem is frequent dialing. If you'd be happy with fixed-power, the SWFA SS scopes would work fine and make the $300 limit. But their variables cost more than that.


Thanks for the suggestion, I'm just fine with a fixed power. I will give SWFA a look. I don't know much about them so it will be fun to learn.

I also would be just fine going with a used and/or vintage scope if you know of any that would meet my needs.

Thanks again. smile

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Great article John.

If I may ask a question? I normally run a Leupold FX-II 4x but have an opportunity to purchase a NIB Zeiss Conquest 4x. Do you feel the Zeiss would offer any greater reliability? I know it weights more and often wonder if it was better built for it?

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Ryan

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No, I wouldn't say the Conquest would be any tougher.


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Hello MD,

Some time ago I asked about the number of lenses inside a fixed magnification scope vs. a variable one.
Conceptually, as far as I know, there is no need for more lenses inside a variable. As I see, just changing the distance between the erector lenses, the magnification is changed. Of course, the variable scope needs one more tube that moves inside the simple one of the fixed magnification scope, with the elicoidal opening and all the parts to variate the relations between the erector lenses.
This is, as I said, conceptually speaking. May be some more lenses inside the variable are needed because some additional optical corrections must be made to compensate the erector lenses movements...?
Can you comment about all of this?

Thank you !

PH

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The total number of lenses depends on the specific scope, but at a minimum there are two lenses inside a variable's erector tube, while a fixed-power only requires one erector lens.


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Thank you MD!!

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Don't know if this is the correct place, but here goes... One day, I was attempting to sight in my rifle, and it appeared to me that the marked right adjustment moved the poi left, and Up was down!

While he and I were waiting for our barrels to cool, I mentioned the "problem" to the shooter at the next bench. He said "Yeah, with Burris it's backwards." HUH?
Hmmm...the next time I was at the range, the fellow (different guy)sighting my rifle in got it shooting within 1" at 10 yards, with minimum adjustment. I mentioned my prior "problem" and he told me that it was an upside down image? Say WHAT? Not according to my eyes. They are bad, but not that bad! I always understood there is an erector lens in there somewhere, which gives a properly-displayed right-side-up and L-to-R image.

Was someone having me on?

I didn't think I look like such a Bunny! If the above is true, I'm going to epoxy the turret dials, so help me, I will!:-)
It seems logical to me that if arrow on the turret says RIGHT or UP is thataway, image/poi should shift in the direction the arrow says.


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Both guys were either ignorant or messing with you.

It is possible for scopes to have the up-down and right-left marked backward, but it's rare. I've had one such scope in all the decades I've been fooling with them, a prototype 3-9x from a well-known firm.

Also, some European scopes have turret adjustments that turn the opposite way most American scopes do for up/down and right/left, but I've yet to run into one with the turrets marked for the wrong direction.


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I saw mention above of the old Burris Signature line. I have a matte 2-8x Signature on a .270 WCF that I have happily used for about 20 years, now. How do the old Signature scopes stack up compared to today's scopes?

As I recall, the Signatures (and maybe the Fullfields from back then, too) had a brass erector tube. Is this still a feature of Burris scopes? If not, why was it done away with? Was it a good idea, at the time?

Thanks, in advance.

Scott

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The old Signatures were pretty good scopes. The brass erector tubes were used because brass is slicker than many other materials, allowing the erector lenses to cam back and forth easier. But it's also heavier than other materials commonly used for erector tubes, the reason the adjustment turrets were placed further forward--for more leverage to consistently move the erector tube. This often made the scope a bit of a PITA to mount, which is why the brass erector tube was eventually abandoned.


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Thanks for the response.

The 2-8x Signature has definitely served me well. Only slight negative about it, IMO, is the adjustments being 1/3 MOA. Always thought that was strange and wondered why they weren't 1/4 MOA.

Scott

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1/3 MOA is very close to (though not quite precisely) 0.1 milliradian. So, you were ahead of your time with a mil-adjust scope! :-D

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Was really bold to name which scopes do or do not work by name, very brave. Thanks for sharing your story.


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Originally Posted by Leonten
Back in the 1970s I asked Gunsmith how much should a scope or a pair of binoculars cost? His answer back then was good advice. And it still holds true today. He said "A scope should cost as much is your rifle. But your binoculars should cost twice as much as the rifle."




Binoculars cost what ever they cost, but a pair will cost you twice that.


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My son had more scopes go south on tracking than I ever did but he played around with different loads and adjusted his scopes frequently. The Nikon Monarch 3x9 scope that was on his 243 is at Nikon now for repair. It seems to track OK but won't hold a good zero. Of the scopes I've bought a Leupold VX-2 I bought used had to go back because of tracking problems but is fine now.
My Burris Signature Safari is alive and well but not on a magnum. I bought it for my 660 350 mag but the bolt handle wouldn't clear the rear bell without using high rings. It's on my Ruger 77 tanger 308.
I have bought more Leupold scopes than any other brand but that is for reticle selection and eye relief.


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