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I just finished a FN Mauser Custom Stock with Tru Oil. Finished it off with Rotten Stone and Mineral Oil, Applied 3 Coats of Birchwood Casey Stock wax on it. It is still a bit too "Shiny" for Me. The question is - How do I get The Wax off to continue to achieve a "Duller / More Real Wood Finish? I noticed on another Post that somebody Stated - to Finish with a Coat of Boiled Linseed Oil for this Type of Finish?

BLO over wax is not a good idea.

The TruOil finish is a good classic finish. To remove wax, you need a mild soap (Ivory) and water (since you've got an oil finish the water won't hurt just don't soak it), but I would use Murphy's Oil Soap and 0000 steel. Keep buffing the wax until it's gone, then clean w/ mineral spirits. Look at the finish--you might be good to go, or you may want to reapply TruOil. Rottenstone is a great idea, but let your final oil-finish cure and decide from there.

I refinished an oak rolltop desk 2 years ago and got the 30+ years of dirt/wax/smoke gunk off w/ the Murphy's Oil Soap plus it won't hurt the wood, but don't use it on unfinished wood. Clean unfinished wood w/ mineral spirits which won't raise the grain.

Good advice, Thanks, I've used Murphy's Before. Just didn't Think of it.

Amen to what june61944 said. Murphy�s is one of those great products that actually does what it claims to do, and does so without two pages of instructions and warnings.

If you apply Linseed oil onto wood that has been sealed and finished all you will get is a gummy surface that doesn�t ever really dry.

There are tons of good finishes for gun stocks but pure Linseed oil is not among them.

I recently refinished a T/C renegade stock. After stripping, filling ,sealing and whiskering it was ready for the finish. For the finish ,I used a tung oil, mineral spirits mix. I did several coats, using 600 paper between coats. After I was satisfied with it , I used Howards feed and wax. Came out pretty good with no gloss.

I have only done 5 stocks, all were with true oil. I used the stock wax on 2 of them because I wanted the shine.

However on the 3 that were mine I didnt want the shine. After the tru oil was completely diried I stook some used 0000steel wool and scuffed the shine off the stock. Worked just fine for me.

I've probably carved, whacked, sawed, chiseled, ground and whatever else that can be done to a wood gunstock for about 50 stocks. When it comes to the final finish, though, you've just been given the soundest advice possible. Nothing to add.

Wayne

I use rottenstone and mineral oil with a felt pad. Mix a thick paste and rub in a back and forth fashion. It works good for me. Thanks...Bill.

Just finished the Tru Oil finish on a laminated thumbhole stock for my custom Mauser. I got Briwax based on Sitka Deer's recommendation and am ready to apply it.

Do you just rub the wax on everywhere and leave it, or do you rub the wax on and then buff it off like you would a car?

sorry for the stupid question!

Chris

just use mineral spirits to dissolve the wax. that's all.

clattin
Apply Bri-Wax and let it dry. Buff after it dries good. You will find that a light application is the best answer... buffing it is work because the wax is so hard.

For the original question, I would just use rottenstone on a felt rag dipped in mineral oil to remove the wax while knocking the luster down to the desired matted level...
art

Thanks, Art! Never did find a kiln that would dry those walnut blanks for me, so I guess I'm "stuck" with air drying them. Got paint on the ends and will put them in the attic.

Chris

Air-drying is never the wrong answer!

if all your trying to do is knock some of the shine off a tru-oil finsh i've used 0000 steel wool with johnsons paste wax as a lubricant.

Thanks - Ive never heard of Bri-Wax. What is it,and where can I find it. I've always used Butcher's Bowling Alley wax. This was taught to Me for Protection of Fine quality Fly rods. Old School?
But it Finger Prints.