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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 62
Campfire Greenhorn
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 62
I have a Martini Cadet with a shot out 310 barrel I want to build a truck varmint rifle from. I plan on rebarreling and restocking it. I thinking about a 17 Remington. My brother suggested making the brass out of 5.6 x 52R cases so that I have a rimmed 17 Remington. I have heard about a Bob Snapp rimless extractor that works well that would avoid hand making cases. Others have advised staying away from the 17 Rem altogether and going with 17 Ackley Bee, Mach IV or other hot 17. What do you guys think?
Also, can someone suggest a good Martini smith to handle the rebarreling and reaming.
Any other words of wisdom?
I also have another Martini action I want to build a 218 Bee next, but someone recommended the 218 Mashburn Bee??

Don

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Take Remington 357 maximum brass and 17 Mach IV dies, and you end up with a 17 Mach IV Rimmed after trimming to length <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> So easy to do, it's not really even a wildcat.

The Contender folks do stuff similar to this all the time. Another favorite is the .300/.221 Rimmed i.e. Rimmed .300 Whisper.

Scott



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I have two Cadets, one in 17 Ackley Bee, and one in .357 Maximum. The Bee is a PITA to get set up for, but, oh my, once you do... The Max, so far, has been a disappointment-but I really haven't started working load development. IMHO, I would stay with a rimmed cartridge. Anything in the .357 head size will work with minimal hassle. Due to the small shank size, I personally will not go much above that head/body size. I also think the .17 Rem is just a bit much for that small action. Overall cartridge length has to be considered, also. The .357 Max is just about all it will take without major modification. To load the Max, I have to initially pull down on the lever, to get that last little bit of room with the block moving down to "make the corner". It does extract just fine.
Sights are a consideration. On the Bee, I have a Ruger #1 quarter rib mounted on the barrel just ahead of the action. With extension rings, this works fine, except it's a PITA to load/unload with the scope in the way. On the Max, I have a Weaver rail mounted in the same position. Right now, it wears a scope for testing, but I'm thinking Red Dot for permanant. I've considered a receiver sight, but with my eyes, I'm not sure I want to do that. The flat side of the Cadet would be a natural for it, however.
I love the little Cadets, and if I can find a suitable RF action, I see a .17HMR in my future... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Joined: Jul 2003
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Campfire Greenhorn
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I'm getting some solid advice on this project;thanks to all. I have been advised to make rimmed 17 Rem. cases out of 5.6x 52r cases or to make rimmed 17 Mach IV cases from 357 Max. cases and I think both is good advice. On the other hand I'm not a expert handloader/case builder.

I'm thinking maybe the best solution for me is to go with the 17 Ackley Bee and use easily found 218 Bee cases and only have to neck down. I want a 17 Rem. but I'm thinking about putting in a pre-order on one of the new Montana Rifleman mini- actions and build the 17 Remington on this action; this action would be much better suited for this round. From what I've read, theres not that much performance loss from going with the 18 A. Bee from the Mach IV.

OK, I'm settled on the 17 Bee...... now, which is the better choice
17 Ackley Bee or 17 Mashburn Bee????

I'm getting there.

Don

Joined: May 2003
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Case forming dies/extended shellholder for the .17AB are available from RCBS-and you will need them. They're pricey, too. The drill goes like this: Run the cases thru the forming dies, then the full length sizer die. ANNEAL THE NECK/SHOULDER! An absolute must. Load a 25 Rem ahead of 12 grains of 4198 (You can also use the "Cream of Wheat" method, but it's not as reliable) and fireform. Resize, turn the neck square, and you've got a case. On my rifle, I've not had to turn the necks for thickness, but all require squaring up. Work up loads slowly- a tenth of a grain at a time. Sticky cases will tell you when you've gone to far, the extraction power of the Martini action is not all that great. If your cases split the necks after a couple of firings, re-anneal. My rifle really loves 12.7grs of RE7 behind the Hornady 20gr VMax, CCI BR4 primers. I have not chrono'ed this load, as my Chrony is "on the fritz".... The Bee will move 'em right out, but it's obviously not in the .17 Rem class...
Never heard of a .17 Mashburn Bee, so no comment.

IC B2

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Don,

I am intrigued with your project. I have been to Robert Snapp's shop a couple of times. However, he would not be my smith of choice. The last I knew, he had a 2 or 3 year backlog. He does do very high quality work, but his services are fairly pricey.

If I were doing the project, I would seek out Dave Hoffman of Owosso, MI. You can find a great article about him in and old Shooter's Bible. I don't remember the exact issue but late '70's or early '80s. If you have a large library in your area, They may well have a file of Shooters Bibles. I know Dave personally, and I know he doesn't take on much work. But his expertise lies in Martini's.

If it were me, I would build the .218 Bee first and see how that goes. Then decide if you still want a .17. Hope this helps...the9.3Guy


"As you walk thru life, don't be surprised that there are fewer people that you encounter seeking truth than those seeking confirmation of what they already believe!"


Joined: Jul 2003
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Please pass Dave Hoffmans contact info on to me.

Thanks,
Don


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