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Originally Posted by The_Real_Hawkeye
Ok, but what about the neck? Do you take it with the spine or do you remove the meat and leave the spine. I ask because when I stew neck meat, it's with the bones, but I'm getting the impression that deer bones don't impart a good flavor to stews. Is that the case?


I used to cut the neck for grinding meat but a few years back I cut the neck meat off like a roast. Made for a large, flat hunk of meat that we seasoned, rolled and tied into a roast. came out of the crock pot real nice.


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Originally Posted by northern_dave
Originally Posted by The_Real_Hawkeye
Buck makes a fix blade knife they claim is self-sharpening, i.e., never needs to be resharpened. Is that possible?


never heard of that, can't imagine how that could be possible unless it's some gimmicky sharpener in the sheath that gives a stroke across the blade as you place it in or draw it.

But I do like the Buck brand



For a while Buck and Cabelas marketed a knife with some type of coating, I think it was some type of nitrade that was applied to one side of the blade. As the knife was used the uncoated side would wear away and leave a sharp edge on the coated side. I never saw one and only recalled the info from the product description.

I do like using two knives when backpacking, usually a short drop point for most of the chores but have gone to a longer blade on a boning knife when reducing them to just meat and horns.


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castandblasts's gerber pictured above is interesting. I have a similar knife, but only with the drop point blade (the one in the knife in the pic) and the saw. Mine does not, however, have the more rounded (what do you call that, anyway?) that would be much better for skinning. I wonder if I could add a blade from Gerber?


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Originally Posted by varmintsinc
For a while Buck and Cabelas marketed a knife with some type of coating, I think it was some type of nitrade that was applied to one side of the blade. As the knife was used the uncoated side would wear away and leave a sharp edge on the coated side. I never saw one and only recalled the info from the product description.
Yeah, that's the one I'm talking about.

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Originally Posted by JRaw
castandblasts's gerber pictured above is interesting. I have a similar knife, but only with the drop point blade (the one in the knife in the pic) and the saw. Mine does not, however, have the more rounded (what do you call that, anyway?) that would be much better for skinning. I wonder if I could add a blade from Gerber?


They are out there used, sometimes with a guthook on the top. They haven't been made in a long time but I have seen them at knife shops once in a while. If I see one I'll grab it for you!

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Neck meat is actually great meat. Foy years, my kids and I would chunk up the neck meat to use for a New Year's Eve fondue party.....DELICIOUS!

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I use a Benchmade EMT Emergency seat belt cutter as a hide cutter from sex organs to top of breast bone as to also cut through the stomach muscles up to the breast bone. Used this rig for 6 yrs and never cut into any abdominal cavity contents. Anus is reamed and sex organs removed with a fish filet knife then off to the Deer cooler.

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I pretty much Buck knives for everything. Don't know why really other than I have about 10 of 'em. I use a Buck 110(i think) for general gutting duties and to make some cuts for skinning. I have several black handled, fixed blade of various size and stoutness for the skinning and butchering. No saw. The hip joints kind of pop out when you get the knife into them. The leg joints can be done with a knife too. Just score the skin/ligaments around them and give them a quick hard pop and they generally break right off.

Tom


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I hope to bloody this one

This knife is a Drop Point #7+
The blade is 5/32 thick
The handle is Maroon Linen Micarta
Blade length is 3": Overall length 7"
Steel used - S30V
Black Kydex "cross draw" sheath with belt loop.


[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by SAKO75; 08/03/08.

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TRH,

Both of those knives are well up to the task of dressing out a whitetail; my preference would be the first one as the antler handle looks as if it would offer a better grip when wet with blood and it also has a more positive finger guard.

Whether you need a small saw for the field or not depends on whether you intend to open the chest cavity fully or leave it closed until you get home. The main advantage of leaving it closed is that it reduces contamination as you extract the carcass.

If you intend to open it in the field, I would recommend buying a small T handled saw such as the Gerber E-Z Saw...It does the job with the minimum of fuss and no matter how good the quality of your blade steel, splitting rib cages is a bit brutal on the knife...

There is a lot to be said for using a cheap and cheerful knife for deer work save wrecking or loosing your quality one..

I like a Frosts Clipper with SS trilaminated blade

[Linked Image]

They are soft enough to sharpen easily in the field and at around $15 its no great loss if you loose it...The handle and sheath are synthetic so are easy to keep clean and sterilize from time to time...

As for butchering afterwards, I would recommend you get two specialist butchers knives; a 6" boner and a 10" or 12" Steak knife. I use plastic handled Victronox (sp?) which are cheap but good quality and the sort you would find in a meat packing establishment. You will also need a steel to sharpen these, and possibly a proper butchers saw..I like the ones with a 12" or 15" blade...This will come in handy if you decide to be a bit more adventurous with the cuts you decide to remove from the carcass, some of which are "bone in"..

Finally, I suggest you get a good DVD on butchering as it makes life much easier..I recommend "White-tailed deer processing" from
Gamebutcher

I 've bought a couple of DVD's from him and he really is a nice gent to deal with, and who runs a family based deer cutting operation.. The DVD's are very good, and are aimed at the novice butcher who is only dealing with a couple of carcasses a year at home..

This guy also sells the knives and steels, but I already bought mine locally so I can't comment what they are like...

Regards,

Pete

Last edited by Pete E; 08/03/08.
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I've used all kinds, but I prefer a small (2") blade for severing the esophagus/windpipe and a larger (4") blade for the rest. I usually have a gerber or kershaw since they are easy to replace and the steel if at least fair enough for a couple deer at a time. Hogs require a really good steel and I've dulled blade just having them laying near a hog.


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I ussually carry 2 knives with me, but only use one of them. The second one I use is for skinning an butchering but I let it tag along anyways.

I stopped cutting the windpipe a few years ago, Seems alot easier to me, to reach up inside it and just give it a yank.

For sharpening I like freehand on a large stone, and then use the back of a 3" leather belt. Bout the only way I have found to get these Marbles as sharp as they can get.

This one will be what I'm using from now on. Marbles Sport 99
[Linked Image]

heres ther other Marbles. Its a lil big but I like the steel and for skinning, making breakfast an what not its perfect
[Linked Image]

A rapala fillet knife seems to find its way onto the table when were butchering as well

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Originally Posted by Pete E
TRH,

Both of those knives are well up to the task of dressing out a whitetail; my preference would be the first one as the antler handle looks as if it would offer a better grip when wet with blood and it also has a more positive finger guard.

Whether you need a small saw for the field or not depends on whether you intend to open the chest cavity fully or leave it closed until you get home. The main advantage of leaving it closed is that it reduces contamination as you extract the carcass.

If you intend to open it in the field, I would recommend buying a small T handled saw such as the Gerber E-Z Saw...It does the job with the minimum of fuss and no matter how good the quality of your blade steel, splitting rib cages is a bit brutal on the knife...

There is a lot to be said for using a cheap and cheerful knife for deer work save wrecking or loosing your quality one..

I like a Frosts Clipper with SS trilaminated blade

[Linked Image]

They are soft enough to sharpen easily in the field and at around $15 its no great loss if you loose it...The handle and sheath are synthetic so are easy to keep clean and sterilize from time to time...

As for butchering afterwards, I would recommend you get two specialist butchers knives; a 6" boner and a 10" or 12" Steak knife. I use plastic handled Victronox (sp?) which are cheap but good quality and the sort you would find in a meat packing establishment. You will also need a steel to sharpen these, and possibly a proper butchers saw..I like the ones with a 12" or 15" blade...This will come in handy if you decide to be a bit more adventurous with the cuts you decide to remove from the carcass, some of which are "bone in"..

Finally, I suggest you get a good DVD on butchering as it makes life much easier..I recommend "White-tailed deer processing" from
Gamebutcher

I 've bought a couple of DVD's from him and he really is a nice gent to deal with, and who runs a family based deer cutting operation.. The DVD's are very good, and are aimed at the novice butcher who is only dealing with a couple of carcasses a year at home..

This guy also sells the knives and steels, but I already bought mine locally so I can't comment what they are like...

Regards,

Pete
Thanks. I will look into the DVD.

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Originally Posted by mud_bogger
I ussually carry 2 knives with me, but only use one of them. The second one I use is for skinning an butchering but I let it tag along anyways.

I stopped cutting the windpipe a few years ago, Seems alot easier to me, to reach up inside it and just give it a yank.

For sharpening I like freehand on a large stone, and then use the back of a 3" leather belt. Bout the only way I have found to get these Marbles as sharp as they can get.

This one will be what I'm using from now on. Marbles Sport 99
[Linked Image]

heres ther other Marbles. Its a lil big but I like the steel and for skinning, making breakfast an what not its perfect
[Linked Image]

A rapala fillet knife seems to find its way onto the table when were butchering as well
I like those Marbles knives. I have a few, myself.

Been looking around to ID that large Marbles you have there, but cannot do so. What is the model name/number on it? Thanks.

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PeteE.
Quote
Whether you need a small saw for the field or not depends on whether you intend to open the chest cavity fully or leave it closed until you get home. The main advantage of leaving it closed is that it reduces contamination as you extract the carcass.


Over here (North Florida), its more important to cool the carcass down, than to worry about contamination. Often during hunting season, the temperature will top 90F.
I use several wraps of cheese cloth to keep the critters and dirt/brush out, but the chest has to be opened for cooling.


Sam......

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NorthWoods Big Game skinner. Both blades have the 52-100 for steel

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It seems the drop point blade is a rather common theme here. Makes complete sense to me.

I really like the looks and strength of a fixed-blade knife, but for field dressing these days I carry a lightweight lockback folder. I have many, but one of my favorites lately is the Gerber LST. The blade is 2-1/2" long and the handle is black plastic. Field dressing does not require a large or particularly strong knife, and the LST is absolutely unnoticeable in the pocket. It will handle 2 deer before needing a touch-up.

I have many fixed-blade knives, but a few favorites for game processing include a Marbles Plainsman straight back, a Boker stag-handled drop point (forgot the name), and a Buck Vanguard. I haven't yet experienced the pleasure of owning a custom-made knife, but some of the excellent pictures posted in this thread may influence that decision.

I agree that the Lansky is an excellent sharpening tool. I always use the guide hole that produces the shallowest angle (labeled as 17.5� IIRC) because a shallow angle cuts best. I would use a shallower angle if it was a choice. I also stop with the medium stone, and typically do not use the fine. The medium stone leaves a somewhat "rough" edge that I believe cuts meat and hide better than a very smooth edge, and seems to stay sharper longer.

Knife sharpening has been a "hobby" of mine for as long as I can remember. I learned by watching my dad do it freehand on a double-sided "Carborundum" stone. It takes practice to get good with this method, but it can be very effective.

On our caribou hunt in '02, I noticed that our guide was having trouble "cutting" through the hide and meat of the 'bou. On our last day in camp, I took his knife and a flat stone and went to work. The "edge" was very blunt from years of touch-up at increasingly blunt angles, so a lot of work was required to obtain a decent edge. It took me almost 2 hours, but when I was done, it would dry-shave the hair from my arm from hilt to tip. He said "thanks", but I'm sure he didn't really appreciate how sharp it was until dressing his next caribou.

A few years earlier, I was in the woods with my brother-in-law while he was dressing a deer. After watching him struggle for a couple minutes with his obviously-dull Buck Woodsman, I handed him my Buck Vanguard and suggested he try it, and suggested that he be careful not to touch his skin with the edge because it was very sharp. After the first cut, the look on his face and subsequent comment was priceless. "Man! That's sharp!" he said. Then he proceeded to badly lay open his hand with it. I finished dressing the deer for him while he nursed his hand, which was bleeding badly. Can't say I didn't warn him.

-


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Lots of high tech options, I use a Havels Piranta. Its a replaceable blade pocket knife that uses autopsy blades. I can do anything I need to with that knife, including dejointing as needed, a pack of say 10 extra blades is a few ounces. Plenty cheap, appx 25 bucks for 100 blades...

And never need to sharpen..... I've put all the rest of my knives away, except the filet knife for boning on the spot and if going after something big, I take my LEM skinning knife...

Jeff


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I love the pics of Ingrams and Mays. They are a very classy way to unzip and skin a deer. I've used everything from a swiss army knife to a Sebenza. My last hunt in January of this year I skinned, quartered, and packaged 3 deer, and two hogs with a Spyderco Delica 4.

We talk alot about our gear, but not so much about our ability to use it well. I suspect if we were really able to get around the same Campfire, we'd be able to see who works a knife the best. Trust me, I know there's many better than me.

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Originally Posted by Mannlicher
I would guess that most of the deer and hogs I have dressed, as well as one 'gator, and a number of smaller animals, have been cleaned with these two knives.
The first is a Randall 11, and the other is a very old Clauss.
[Linked Image]


How do you like that Model 11?

I had a thing for Randall knives for awhile. I drove this model 26 (at the bottom of the pic just above the Ingrams) for a long time. After I picked up those Ingrams (a slim, and a #1 Semi), I can't seem to grab anything else. The next four Ingrams are due in October, so that will be nice!!!

[Linked Image]

Here's a better pic of that Model 26.

[Linked Image]



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