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Joined: Apr 2008
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Folks,
I would appreciate your suggestions about the best way to lubricate my semi-auto shotgun.
I just disassembled my Rem. 1100 for cleaning to get ready for the spring turkey season. I've been cleaning and lubricating firearms for a long time, but it just occurred to me that things change and new products show-up.
I have a big selection of lubes � old-fashion gun oils, aerosols, dry-lubes, etc.
My question is � given all the available products, what is the best way to lubricate my semi-automatic?
I'd appreciate hearing better/new ideas about this. Thanks in advance for your comments.

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I have the best results with synthetic lube - SU2000 or Militec. Does not freeze and is super slick. After you clean, wipe with the synthetic lube on a cloth, for high friction areas have some on a Q-tip and apply.


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I don't know if there is a "best." I've maintained five 1100's for the local 4-H Shooting Sports for a couple of years now and tried several quality products. Didn't see a difference. For the last few years I've wiped the magazine tubes and so on with a paper towel dampened with a modified version of Ed's Red to clean gunk then wiped with a dry towel as part of cleaning after every session.

The trigger group, receiver, etc. gets thoroughly cleaned once a year with carburetor cleaner then a coat of Brownell's Rust Preventive #2 which is blasted around with an air hose. The excess that didn't get blown off gets wiped off. Then pivot points are lightly lubed with a quality synthetic oil using a needle dropper. I've tried several and, again, saw no difference. The trigger group (and bolt) doesn't get touched until next year's cleaning.

No stoppages for a couple of years. There are many ways to skin this cat, that's just one

One of the major problems that I see with the shotguns the kids bring is way too much oil. All it does is pick up carbon and dust to make a gritty sludge. Modern shotguns with modern steels just don't need much lubrication, and modern lubricants with their affinity for steel want to stay where you put them.


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Which explains a lot.
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BreakFree CLP on the magazine tube and rings of your gas gun. You won't believe your eyes.

Spray it on your dirty gun.
Shoot a box of shells through it.
Wipe off the previously caked-on carbon with a rag.
Reapply.

It's amazing stuff.


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Smith & Wesson Dry Lube works really great.


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Lots of good choices there. My favorite is Eezox.....I use that on my ARs, pistols, shotguns, etc. It protects blueing incredibly well, doesn't hurt wood/plastic and doesn't gum up in semi-autos. I've tried just about everything and haven't found anything better (but I'm still lookin'!!)......


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I own Browning, Beretta and Remington auto-loaders. There are lots of good products. When in doubt, call Brownells. I just started using Eezox in the last year and it really is good stuff, especially for protecting steel. Lots of quality lubricants. CLP is easy to use. The biggest problem, which has already been mentioned, is too much lube. Keep your choke tube cleanded and lubed. Some shotguns run a little better wet. My A303 is one example.

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On my Beretta's all I do, after cleaning, is to spray the working parts with CLP, shake it a little and then use my compresor to blow off the excess.

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I use the SU2000 Synthetic Lube with great results after thorough cleaing, wipe parts, use a q-tip, and/or lightly coat any friction points. Another one to try is Militec.

Some of the thick lubes are not as effective in extreme cold as well as they tend to accumulate gunk/carbon.

The SU2000 does make cleaning easier on Beretta, Benelli, Remington and Winchester shotguns after coating the bolts, receiver, magazine tube, chamber, and choke.


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What grouseman said on the Breakfree. Since I started using it a few years ago I can't recall a jam on three different 1100s and a 1187. I put it on pretty heavy. Don't know if it's the best but it's the best I've used in over 30 years of shooting semi-auto shotguns.

One other thing is to make sure the chamber is free of plastic shotshell build up. I hit that heavy with a Tornado brush or bore brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool.

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Originally Posted by grouseman
BreakFree CLP on the magazine tube and rings of your gas gun. You won't believe your eyes.

Spray it on your dirty gun.
Shoot a box of shells through it.
Wipe off the previously caked-on carbon with a rag.
Reapply.

It's amazing stuff.

Agree entirely. I use Breakfree CLP on my 2 11/87's and 1 1100. It's amazing stuff.

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....Here's an unconventional suggestion among many good ones you've already gotten. How would you like to forget the need to lubricate? If your gun has all steel internals you can simply have them hard chromed by Armaloy and there will be no need for lubrication in the future, just an occasional spay cleaning with Gunk Out ,or similar cleaning solvent. If your reciever is Aluminum, a quality spray dry lubricant fills the bill. Today's dry lubes are better than ever having profited from improved carrier formulations.

....The 'problem with oils is a more rapid build up of carbon residue which accelerates metal wear.

......I went to hard chrome throughout on my hunting rifles back in 1978 when Armaloy out of Texas developed superior chrome plating for gun parts. No smelly oils when deer hunting is another benefit as well, no rust ever, and the lowest coefficient of friction, metal to metal, known. Plus wear or marring of metal surfaces is as near non existent as is possible today.

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Originally Posted by grouseman
BreakFree CLP on the magazine tube and rings of your gas gun. You won't believe your eyes.

Spray it on your dirty gun.
Shoot a box of shells through it.
Wipe off the previously caked-on carbon with a rag.
Reapply.

It's amazing stuff.


I agree. Spray the hell out of it with Breakfree CLP and shoot it "wet."

Good luck!


"You cannot miss fast enough to win."-- Ross Seyfried
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I use CLP, but very lightly.

Just bought Eezox for my blued guns, mostly for the protection. Have to see how it works as a lubricant.

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OK, you're going to think I'm crazy, but here goes:

I disassemble completely (using a schematic or Firearms Disassembly guide), soak everything in gasoline to completely de-grease, dry completely, then wipe everything down with a very thick coat of Militec. I mean sopping.

Here's the crazy part. I put the entire works into a preheated oven (150 or so) for a couple minutes (all the small parts in a deep-sided baking dish). Normally, the Militec disappears on a lot of the metal surfaces, so I re-apply, and re-heat.

Then, I wipe everything down again and try to remove as much of the excess Militec as I can, reassemble, and put just a DAB of heavy grease on key areas, depending on the gun.

I swear, I have a 12-gauge Belgium Browning Auto-5 that had 25-plus years of heavy-volume Mexico shooting ... probably not 100,000 rounds, but maybe not too far off. Anyway, it was a crapload of rounds, and I had never cracked the receiver, but finally the striker/hammer broke internally and I had to disassemble to replace it. I took the opportunity to clean as per above, and if you've ever felt a Belgium Auto-5 operate (think bank vault), this gun was right back there.

It's been 6 or 7 years since that disassembly, and that gun is still operating like, well, like a proper Belgium Auto-5!

When a gun gets finicky, that's what I do. It takes a while, but it's like starting over with a new gun.


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