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RickB Offline OP
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Here's some of the pictures I said I would post of the new Remington X Mark Pro Triggers. I've got three more of them on back order.

I'll post more pics after I do some tests to see if anything other than heat will remove the sealant they put on the over travel and engagement screws. The stuff on the weight screw peels right off to expose the screw head just like the old stuff did.

Pic #1 shows the front with the overt travel screw on top and the weight screw on the bottom. #2 shows the rear and the engagement screw. You can see the epoxy like substance on the heads of the over travel and the engagement screws.

The last two photos show how the safety moves the over travel screw and its housing back into the trigger to block any movement.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

BP-B2

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Here's two more pics of the totally disassembled trigger.

As you can clearly see the engagement screw and the over travel screw both have some sort of sealant on their threads. I soaked the entire assembly in acetone for a bit over two hours and while it did allow removing the exposed sealant with a dental pick there is no way it would penetrate into the threads to allow them to be un screwed. The screws would not budge.

Heat (a small propane torch) was required to screw them out. It didn't take allot, about two seconds tops.

So...Myth number one : "The triggers are not adjustable for over travel and sear engagement" FALSE!

And, Myth number two: "Acetone and/or fingernail polish remover will cut through the sealant used on the engagement and over travel screws." FALSE!



[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

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RickB Offline OP
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Perhaps the best feature of these new triggers (IMO) is the angled sear spring. Why someone hadn't thought of that before is amazing. Having that angle provides FAR better mechanical advantage when the sear is released and the cocking piece pushes it down...and also is a more natural angle to pop the sear back up.

You might be surprised at the amount of firing pin spring weight that is used just to override the sear, and that used up weight is lost and not available to drive the pin into the primer. Theoretically, this new design should provide faster lock time and better ignition when using the same weight spring.

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Thanks for the info and pics.


Everything you now do is something you have chosen to do. Some people don't want to believe that. But if you're over age twenty-one, your life is what you're making of it. To change your life, you need to change your priorities.








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Be advised that adjusting the overtravel screw too much on these triggers could pose a possible problem. The overtravel screw is not stationary as it is on the older models. The screw and it's threaded housing are an integral part of the safety and the whole unit moves back to block the trigger when the safety is engaged. Screw it in too far and the safety might not go all the way to safe...screw it out too far and it won't block the trigger.

The other two screws are adjusted and work exactly the same as the older ones. Just make sure you have a minimum of twenty thousandths engagement between the trigger and the sear...whether on the new or old ones.

The fit and finish of these new ones is nothing short of fantastic. I viewed the sear and trigger engagement surfaces with a 25x magnifier and they were both as smooth as glass with very distinct sharp edges.

For all their past and present sins Remington did real well with these triggers...but they certainly didn't want guys taking them apart. smile

The little retaining clip on the trigger pin is pretty much a "use it one time" affair...and it takes a special tool to reinstall either the old one (if you didn't deform or break it driving the pin out) or a new one.

All the screws are 1/16" allan head set screws and they will strip out very easily if you aren't careful. Apply the heat with the wrench already in place and just put some pressure on it. It doesn't take allot of heat and once the screw breaks free you can remove the heat and screw it out.

The sear engagement screw is a 6x40 and the overtravel is a 5x40. It's a good idea to run the appropriate sized tap through to clean all that gunk out of the threads before you reinstall them.



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Great informative post, I`m old hat, and have been avoiding the Mark X like the plague.

I guess the unknowing had me worried, as the first one I crossed paths with was all glued together.

This is really an eye opener. What kind of results can be had out of the new one?

I asked this of Speedy Gonzales, when he was selling much goods on E-Bay, and he commented that he liked the new trigger much better than the old one.

I need to get up to speed on these new triggers. This thread has pushed me that way, so thanks!!


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RickB Offline OP
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These triggers (IMO) are every bit as good, and in some ways better, than any of the aftermarket triggers made by Timney, Jewel, and others.

They are not a competition BR trigger, nor were they intended to be...but for all other purposes they are state of the art and the price is EXTREMELY competitive and reasonable.

I would highly recommend them to anyone contemplating replacing the trigger in their Remington.

About the only thing on them I don't particularly care for is the smooth trigger face.

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I sold the only one I had, so none here to heat up. But rest assured I`ll not be dodging them any longer.

Not looking for BR quality, just a good ole light, crisp, hunter.


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I want to make it perfectly clear that I do not recommend tearing these triggers apart unless there is a really good reason to do so. They come with the overtravel and sear engagement already set and the weight can be adjusted by anyone with nothing more than a 1/16" allan wrench.

I did it for two reasons: 1) to see how they work so when I get them in the shop I know what I'm doing...and 2) to dispel all the "internet BS" you read on these forums written by guys that have obviously never taken one apart.






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Thanks for taking the time to post the pics and explain the new trigger. Very interesting & informative information, for certain.


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IC B3

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Originally Posted by RickB
The little retaining clip on the trigger pin is pretty much a "use it one time" affair...and it takes a special tool to reinstall either the old one (if you didn't deform or break it driving the pin out) or a new one.



Did you have to find a new retaining clip? If so, where? Also, is the special tool required hard to find?


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RickB,

Nice informative post. I only have one X Mark Pro trigger but have been very impressed with it. How well do you think it will hold up to prolonged moisture?

MtnHtr




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RickB Offline OP
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MtnHtr,

Just speculating but I can't see where they would be any more susceptible to moisture than any of the other triggers would be. The lack of the connector bar would certainly preclude any moisture getting trapped in that spot. As you know, any trigger that resides in a housing is always going to carry some risk of something getting trapped in there no matter who makes it.

oulufinn,

This company carries the retaining clips. The safety lever takes a #5115 and the trigger pin takes a # 5560. The tool for installing the trigger pin clip is like a small nut driver that fits over the head of the pin and allows you to tap the clip down into place.

http://www.truarc.com/products.php

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Thanks for the info. There really hasn't been much out there, about these new triggers. Your legwork is very appreciated!


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Hi Rick -

How light do you reckon the new trigger can be adjusted before there's any real issue with safety ... assume you're talking to a guy who's used to 2 ounce 40X triggers, thus focusing on the mechanical question, not the human operator question.

I just got a Seven XCR which has the new trigger. Trying to back it down to a useful (to me) weight and wondering what the mechanical limits of the device are.

Thanks!

Tom


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RickB Offline OP
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It was selfish on my part since the only way I have ever been able to learn is by tearing stuff apart to see how everything works. I'm not sure if that makes me "right-brained"..."left-brained"...or "NO-brained"...but that's what works for me. smile

Bottom line for me is that these new triggers are a great improvement and whenever the factories actually do come up with a better mouse trap it's refreshing to see.

I've got allot more "playing" to do with this trigger to see how much adjusting the overtravel affects the operation of the safety. At first glance it appears that it could pose a problem in fully engaging the safety and blocking the trigger and/or sear since the overtravel screw actually moves fore and aft as the safety lever is engaged and disengaged.



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RickB,

I was interested in your thoughts concerning corrosion resistance with the X Mark Pro (SS version). Mine has alot of parts that appear to be nickel coated and was touted to be more corrosion resistant.

MtnHtr




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Rick,

Thanks for your photos and commentary!

I like the XMarkPro because it cures the "fire on failure" modes of the Walker trigger design. The updated material specification are gilding on the lily (so to speak).

jim


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Mtn Hunter

The ones I ordered said "blued" but the only part that is blue is the safety lever. The housing appears like it's plated like you said.

I'll mist some salt water on all the parts today and let them sit outside overnight and let you know what happens.

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