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Joined: Jul 2006
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octagon Offline OP
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I always liked the Stevens 200 since they came out but hated the grey tupperware stock. Now that they are offered with a camo stock for a little more $$$$, I am going to buy one in a .270 Does anyone own a new one with the new camo stock? How do you like the camo pattern and design? How does it shoot for ya?

Thanks-Jack

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I would rather Krylon my own Savage/Stevens stocks, 'cause I'll bet a $1 that the don't remove the mold seams. It doesn't take long to sand off the mold seams, wipe the stock down with acetone, let it dry, and shoot it with a little flat camo Krylon. I like the Khaki or OD base with black webbing and a matte/flat clear coat finish. Plus, when you do it yourself, you get the satisfaction of having it your way.

If you buy a Marlin XL/XS-7 in lieu of the Stevens 200, you'll get a better trigger, a better (I think) stock design, and NO mold seams. So, if you paint a Marlin stock, all you need to do is clean in with acetone, let it dry, and shooting it with the Krylon. Cuts you production time by an hour or so.

Jeff

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octagon Offline OP
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Good point!! I will have to see one in Camo for myself. I would get the Marlin, but I don`t like Accu-Trigger type triggers. I may just get a grey stevens and do the work you suggested if I don`t like the stock "stock" on the camo 200. What is the best way to sand off the seams of the 200 ?

Thanks-Jack

Joined: Nov 2007
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I sanded a tuperware fajen and not the Stevens 200, but I'm sure it is much the same.

Just clamp the stock (barreled action removed) in a padded vice with the butt sticking out, cut a long, thin strip of 150 grit emory cloth or sandpaper and, holding one end in one hand and one end in the other, do the "shoe polish" back and forth over the mold seams. Flip it upside-down to do the underside, and flip it around in the vice to do the fore-end and underside.

Use a sanding block to get the edges along the sides.

If you're going to paint the thing yourself I'd highly recommend sanding the whole thing lightly once you've got the seams level just to give the paint something to which it can adhere, then use a lintless towel soaked in acetone to clean the whole thing off before spraying on primer. Remember to use gloves when cleaning it off to keep it perfectly clean so the paint/primer adheres best to the plastic.

I personally don't care at all for camo pattern stocks, binoculars, turkey shotguns, range finders, etc, but found that I could put together an effectively ellusive paint job without going "camo" in the strictest sense:

[Linked Image]

I kinda thought that Gotham Gray Stonetouch made for a pretty decent snow camo...


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