Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Cut on contact VS chisel point tips

My two favorites for the last couple of years are the Montec and the Snyper. I like the Snypers because they buck crosswinds at longer ranges better. If the weather is nasty with freezing rain or snow, I use the Montec. I haven't found a better flying fixed head after tuning. Wounds and penetration have been excellent with both but the Snyper leaves an awesome looking gash.

Due to advances in machining. I'm seeing a new breed of broadhead that offers the best of both worlds. The Rocky Titanium, Gold Tip Centurion, NAP Crossfire, the Rocky Turbo and the Rocky Iron Head 125 all have chisel like tips that are machined into the ferrule and almost flow seemlessly into the replaceable blade system. This makes for a very strong and deep penetrating broadhead.

I've found that cut on contact broadheads like the snuffer or montec are difficult to get razor sharp like the heads that have surgical SS blades.

The typical chisel tips are sometimes coupled with weak ferrules that bend, break or fail when you hit heavy bone or pass through an animal into a tree or rock.

I read that Bruce Barrie (owner of Rocky Mountain Razor) has killed 9 big game animal with the same Ti head by only replacing the blades. I've harvested 3 animals with these heads and can vouch for their toughness and lethality on big game. I'm a huge fan of their products and believe the Crossfire and Centurion to be heads that are similarly well designed and versital although made by other companies.

I really like the looks of Montecs but I'm a little skeptical of having to sharpen my heads and doubt I can get them as sharp as surgical steel. Also, despite being a chisel tip and a marginal aluminum ferrule, you really cannot go wrong with a Thunderhead based on price, accuracy and performance.

JJ,

Those slick tricks have a ferrule design very similar to the heads I mentioned above. I truly feel that is one of the best designs for a broadhead right now.

By the way, that was a perfect shot on that hog. Those suckers are tough and anything less than perfect would probably require some tracking. By the way, how do those 4 blade heads fly? I'm partial to 3 blade heads but took a looke at slick tricks web site and they are a pretty good looking head for you 4 bladers.

The Slick tricks shoot like darts. They are 100% identical as field tips from my bow. I have shot three pigs with the same one now including the same blades on all three with the same arrow. The last pig I saw fall 40 yards from my tree stand, after the shot. When he fell (50/50) chance, he fell on the arrow side and broke my arrow. Killing three wild boar with the same arrow broadhead and blades( resharpened) is a hella big accomplishment for the beman arrow and a slick trick 125 grain head!

The trend towards such short blades is interesting. Certainly harder to drive through with the steeper angle, but man what a huge hole they make. Just look at that pigs thick hide opened up as it is! When a balde does that to a hog no other game will stop that blade.

I'm new to the bowhunting world. Last year was my first year bowhunting elk. What a hoot!!! Anyway I've only tried two different broadheads, muzzy and thunderhead. Liked the muzzy design but for me it is too much of a chisle point. The thunderhead's point is half the size of a muzzy's. Kind of seems like the best of both worlds to me and from the broadheads I've seen at the local archary shop's around here them Thunderheads seem about as sharp as it get's. JJ, I'm super impressed with those hog pictures as soon as I'm done with this reply and a post about whisker biscuts I'm gonna go to the slick trick website. I bowhunt elk with a group of guys that has over 60 years of bow hunting between the four of them. Two of them shoot Thunderheads one shoots muzzy's the oldest with the most kills(19 YEARS STRAIGHT WITHOUT EATING A TAG) shoots a bear broadhead that accually has a design of a bear engraved in the blades. I think it's a four blade cut on impact design. I shoot an old martin that produces only about 227 fps. With a draw weight of 65 pds. I'm very accurate to 40 yds. and can't wait to harvest my first bow kill elk. Cow or bull the day I score is gonna be awsome!!!

CD - Here's a shot of that Slick Trick. They're definitely the real deal...... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Looks alot like a muzzy??

Thanks for the picture!!

I was shooting muzzy heads until this one. They are nothing like the muzzy. They are all steel, no aluminum parts. The 125 grain weight is the only one I would trust. They are so small it's a bit spooky the fist time you see them. 1/2 the physical size of the muzzy heads.

JJ is right, the Slick Tricks are very tiny heads in length compared to aluminum body heads. Length isn't what kills and the fact that they are all steel makes them reusable and durable. I killed a bull elk and 2 deer with the same head last year. I only resharpened the blades. I shot a total of 6 deer and an elk with them last year and they are an impressive head to say the least. The blades are REALLY thick and tough. They can be resharpened over and over again. The only change I would make to them is a small bevel in the steel body where it meets the shaft. The 90 degree angle there is the weak link in the head. I had one snap off on impact with a deer and another snapped off after hitting a 1" stick laying on the ground. Other than that, there are very few heads on the market that leave bleeder holes in critters like the Slick Tricks. I know of none that are as accurate. Flinch

Flinch, Are you shooting the 100 grainers'? If so I beleive the breaking ferrule problem is being remedied. As I understand it, the problem only existed with 100's.



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