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The crimp die on my .30-06 shrunk my 168 gr. TSX load (over 58 grains of IMR 4350) noticeably. But it had no effect on the 165 Accubond over the same exact charge.

The collet is a nice little gadget in my book.. I went 5 firings on a batch of .223 brass before needing to bump the shoulder back.


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The collet die is nice because it works on improved cases as well as standard cases.


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Love the Lee Collet/Redding Body Die combination for sizing cases. Have one in every caliber they make. If you are not satisfied with the amount of bullet grip then you can order smaller mandrels from Lee for $5.00 each
[Linked Image]

however while corresponding with Lee via e-mail about the smaller mandrels they said that they did not recommend undersized mandrels because one of the keys to the Lee Collet sizing cases with little runout was because they did not size the neck down more than .001". But they did send them.

The way I adjust my Lee Collets is to run the lock nut up to the top of the threads. This will put the press lever in the most horizontal position
[Linked Image]

and make it easier to put the same amount of pressure on the lever everytime. It only takes about 25# and if you put more pressure on the lever or cam the press over then it is possible to pop the aluminum cap (don't ask me how I know frown ).

I have also used the Lee Factory Crimp Die and for me it improved accuracy
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

However, I don't use them much anymore because they will gradually decrease your case length from chamfering off the crimp repeatedly. After about 6 or 7 firings of the case the Lee Factory Crimp Die would not work because the case length was too short and it was out of the range the die would work in.

You can see the crimp on this load if you look closely
[Linked Image]

You do not have to crimp into a cannelure and even if the case mouth is pressed into the surface of the bullet it will pale in comparison to the amount of scoring the lands will engrave into the surface upon firing.


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I have used the Collet dies for years and wouldn't be without them. Also use the crimp dies but mostly for handgun cartridges. They both work great.


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Love the crimp die for 30-30 and 218 Bee in a lever action.

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I have started using the Lee Crimp Die in a 30-06 while the gun already shot sub-moa with 165's accubonds and Sierra game Kings HPBT it shot a little over a 1/16th of an inch better when crimped. I did't experience any difference in need for triming brass. The Lee Crimp Die is about the easiest process to do in all of my reloading steps. If I am getting close to a compressed load I like the idea that I know the bullet isn't going to move. Buckfever1

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I use the Lee faactory crimp die on magnum-level handgun loads. It produces a stronger crimp than the taper crimp in a typical bulletseating die.

Attempting to apply a heavy crimp at the same time as seating a bullet causes a bulge to form in the case just below the crimp. This bulge is sometimes large enough in diameter to not allow the round to chamber in the cylinder. This problem is cured by using the Lee factory crimp die.

You can also minimize the bulge to some degree by crimping with regular bulletseating dies if you seat and crimp in separate steps. Using two separate seating dies makes this easier by adjusting one for seating only and the other for crimping only.


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Originally Posted by Longarch
Originally Posted by richardca99
Originally Posted by Longarch
JasonB,

Did you notice any improvement in accuracy after using the crimp die?


I've used the crimp die extensively. I've not noticed an increase in accuracy, but I've definitely not noticed a DECREASE in accuracy, and I like having the security of the crimp. I use them with any bullets that have cannelures.

I don't, however, crimp non-cannelured bullets like Lee suggests that you can. I just can't get over the notion of adding a groove into the bullet with my crimp.


Richardca99,

Ever thought about comparing the accuracy of a crimped reload to a non-crimped? ....fishing....


I have. In fact, I have experimented with with their crimp die when I've been building loads that are "on the edge" of what a rifle might be able to function well with. An example has been the 64 Winchester PowerPoint in a 223 with a factory 12 twist barrel. I have been able to significantly tighten groups with their crimp die. There are other instances as well, but that load - with RL15 or 4320 really stand out.


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Excellent information gentlemen. Every post is greatly appreciated.


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Well, I can't find it easily........But........

Turns out I was smart enough to paste it into my own document for future use. It was done by a gentleman by the name of John Valentine.

Originally posted on Benchrest Central:

Using The Lee Collet Die.
I started using Lee collet dies when they first came on the market and have found that they are very good for the purposes for which they were designed .
I have found that there is a lack of understanding of how to use the die properly and as a result people fail to see the advantages that the die can deliver over standard neck sizing dies.
This is not the fault of the product , it is just a lack of understanding of how the die works and what it will feel like when you operate the press correctly.
Standard dies use a neck expanding ball on the decapping rod and size by extruding the neck through a hole and then drag the expander ball back through the inside neck.
The collet die achieves neck sizing by using a split collet to squeeze the outside of the case neck onto a central mandrel which has the decapping pin in it�s base .
One advantage is that there is no stretching or drawing action on the brass.
The inside neck diameter is controlled by the diameter of the mandrel and to some extent by the amount of adjustment of the die and the pressure applied to the press .
This results in less misalignment than can occur in standard dies because of any uneven neck wall thickness in the cases .
Cases will last longer in the neck area and require less trimming. If cases have very uneven neck wall thickness then this can cause problems for the collet die they definitely work smoother and more accurately with neck turned cases but it is not essential.
When you first receive the die unscrew the top cap and pull it apart check that everything is there also that the splits in the collet have nothing stuck in them then inspect the tapered surface on the top end of the collet and the internal taper of the insert to make sure there are no metal burs that might cause it to jamb.
Next get some good quality high pressure grease and put a smear onto the tapered surface of the collet .
Put it back together and screw it into the press just a few threads for now . The best type of press for this die is a press of moderate compound leverage that travels over centre .
Over centre means that when the ram reaches its full travel up it will stop and come back down a tiny amount even though the movement on the handle is continued through to the stop .
eg. is an RCBS Rockchucker.
This arrangement gives the best feel for a collet die sizing operation.
Place the shell holder in the ram and bring the ram up to full height then screw the die down until the collet skirt just touches on the shell holder , then lower the ram .
Take a case to be sized that has a clean neck inside and out and the mouth chamfered and place it in the shell holder.
Raise the ram gently feeling for resistance if none , lower the ram.
Screw the die down a bit at a time .
If you get lock up ( ram stops before going over centre) before the correct position is found then back it off and make sure the collet is loose and not jammed up in the die before continuing then raise the ram feeling for any resistance , keep repeating this until you feel the press handle resist against the case neck just at the top of the stroke as the press goes over centre and the handle kinder locks in place .
This takes much less force than a standard die and most people don�t believe any sizing has taken place .
Take the case out and try a projectile of the correct caliber to see how much sizing has taken place.
If it�s still too loose adjust the die down one eighth of a turn lock it finger tight only and try again .
Once the die is near the correct sizing position it takes very little movement of the die to achieve changes in neck seating tension .
This is where most people come undone , they move the die up and down too much and it either locks up or doesn�t size at all .
It will still size a case locking it up but you have no control over how much pressure is applied and some people lean on the press handle to the point of damaging the die. A press like the RCBS Rockchucker , that goes over centre each time gives you a definite stopping point for the ram and the pressure that you apply .
There is a small sweet spot for correct collet die adjustment and you must find it , once found , how sweet it is ! Advantages : With a press that travels over centre it is possible to adjust the neck seating tension within a limited zone. No lubricant is required on the case necks during sizing .
There are some other advantages but I will leave you the pleasure of discovering them .
One disadvantage that I have found with the collet die is that it needs good vertical alignment of the case as it enters the die or case damage may result so go slowly.
This is not a problem once you learn how to use them.
The harder the brass is the more spring back it will have so very hard brass will exhibit less sizing than soft brass because it will spring away from the mandrel more. If this is happening to excess then use new cases or anneal the necks.
Freshly annealed brass can drag on the mandrel a bit in certain cases because it will spring back less and result in a tighter size diameter.
I have experienced it. I always use some dry lube on the inside and outside if I get any draging effect . Normally you dont need lube.
I make up a special batch 1/3 Fine Moly powder. 1/3 Pure graphite. 1/3 Aluminiumised lock graphite. Rub your fingers around the neck and It sticks very well to the necks by just dipping it in and out and tapping it to clear the inside neck . After a few cases it coats up the mandrel .
Other dry lubricants would work also.
Use the same process for normal neck sizing also.

I noticed a definite improvement in the accuracy of my 22-250Rem. as soon as I started using a Lee collet die instead of my original standard neck die.
Readers are encouraged to utilise the benefits of responsible reloading at all times. Although the author has taken care in the writing of these articles no responsibility can be taken by the author or publisher as a result of the use of this information.
John Valentine. � 21/01/2002.

An RCBS Rockchucker is very good for a Lee collet die.
Are you sizing to a point where the press goes over center and kinda locks the handle inplace . Just like BJS6 is doing.
Your post does not give me that impression .
If you are using just handle pressure against the die without it going over center then you have no controll over the size pressure , no stopping point .
If this is the case then go back and readjust the die a small amount at a time untill it starts to go over center while resizing a case and the handle locks in place.
Then try a projectile in the case . If it needs extra sizing from that point only move the die a very small amount at a time.
If it stops going over center you have gone past the sweet spot.



Edit to add: found it on the new layout finally:

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?48671-lee-collet-dies-neck-tension/page2&highlight=collet

Last edited by shoot4fun; 05/31/10.
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Great post shoot4fun. Thanks for putting forth the extra effort.


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Lee Collet die and Redding Body die are the only way to fly, IMO.

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the crimp dies have shrunk some of the groups with a 30-06 and a 308 win.
So far so good.

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Rarely have I seen as much unanimity here at the 'fire as I see here concerning these Lee products.

Kinda cool!


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It's possible to use a Lee collet die on cartridges other than the one for with they're designed. This is useful when Lee does not make a collet die for the case you want to reload.

The technique may involve putting a shimming washer around the case after it's inserted into the shell holder on the ram.

For example, I'm using the collet die for the 22 Hornet on 218 Bee cases. The length from the base of the case to the bottom of the neck is about 0.07 inches longer on the Bee than the Hornet. So the Bee case is put into the shell holder, a washer a bit thicker than 0.07 inches is dropped over the case, and the press operated to squeeze the neck of the case against the mandrel.

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Crimp dies have been used in several cartridges with varying results and where I have seen the most significant group improvement was loading for some 7x57's.


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I use Lee Collet dies and crimp dies for three rifle cartridges I load for. Ordered a custom Collet for my 9.3x62 and it has worked out great as well.

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Originally Posted by nsaqam
Rarely have I seen as much unanimity here at the 'fire as I see here concerning these Lee products.

Kinda cool!


Yep Ken. It is cool ....... and rewarding.


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I have found the crimp dies take COAL out of the equation. A test at AR with standard 308 loads found an overall improvement of 10%,some better, some worse. The collet dies are also the lazy way of reloading,but you do have to F/L once in while. When the necks get too hard, the crimp comes to the rescue.


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I have more Lee dies than all the other brands. Great value, and excelent results. Collet dies for .222, the Swift, .250 Savage, .25/06, and .30/06 work as advertised.



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