Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Ruger M77 barrel removal?

I'd like to do some tinkering (cut/crown) to a Ruger rifle in my lathe, but have never removed the barrel on a Ruger.

I have seen specialized action wrenches for Remington 700's, Savages, etc... But don't see any action wrench for a Ruger M77.

Anyone have some guidance for barrel removal?

Here is a universal action wrench that is specifically described as working on the M77.

M77 Action Wrench

Unless the barrel is either too short, or your spindle through the headstock is too long, you can mount the action w/o having to remove the barrel.. An item such as a 'spider' to keep the receiver end centered will be needed.. I can crown a muzzle on a barrel as short as 21" w/o having to remove the receiver..

Yup same as mine, I can get to about 21" on my lathe as well without barrel removal. But working on a project where a 19" or 20" length is wanted.....

And then I'll be inside the headstock past where I could use the spider, I'm debating making a slip-fit sleeve to hold the chamber end of the barrel, or to make an adapter that accepts the barrel threads that will reach back to my spider. Thoughts?

when re-installing the barrel to receiver, is there a recommended torque value for Rugers? Do you use loc-tite?



thanks for all the info!

The purpose of the spider isn't just to keep the back end from flopping around, if you want to do that, you can wedge pieces of cardboard between the barrel and the spindles bore to do that. The purpose of the adjustable spider is to aid in the precise alignment of the working end of the bore. On short barrels, I use a split nylon bushing which is tapered, that slips over and runs up the taper of the barrel, which beats the hell out of looking for just the right piece of cardboard. And because it is split, I can adjust the fit in the spindle bore by running it further up the barrels taper. Pretty cool actually.

As far as the correct torque goes, it's hard to put a number to it. Over time you develop a feel for how tight to torque them. Each one has their own feel. I use to apply enough torque to where my eye's would begin to cloud, but now, many years and barrels later, I use the "work bench off the floor" method. Don't use loctite!

No. On an existing rifle, BEFORE you remove the barrel, turn the action upside down and punch in a witness mark at the exact junction where the receiver meets the barrel shoulder. Then, when you re-install the barrel, tighten until the marks match and you're golden.. No.. Some of the factory rifles do, but I don't on a barrel install.. It's really not needed..

Love the split nylon tapered bushing idea! Great tips all around. Thanks fellas.

What's your preferred method for aligning/indicating the bore to the spindle axis? Range rod?

While I'm not familiar with that term (range rod), the tool I use is a spring-loaded centering mandrel.. Then indicate as close to the bore as possible..

basically a brass rod that is caliber-sized to the bore that allows you to extend the bore diameter out past the muzzle so you can indicate right near the muzzle and also out from there several inches to ensure that you are aligned with the bore axis.

If you only indicate right at the muzzle with your expanding mandrel, how do you know that you are aligned with the bore axis? I always thought that since you are dealing with the axis of the bore and the axis of the lathe spindle, you'd need to align them both with at least two indicator positions?

While I haven't opted for it myself, I do know a gunsmith that has an angle iron bolted to his action wrench head(s). The vertical portion of the angle iron is drilled/milled to accept a 1/2" square drive ratchet; or in his case a torque wrench. For benchrest re-barrels he torques to 65 ft/lbs; for hunting rifles he goes to 100 ft/lbs.

As for Malm's former method of 'bench off the floor' torque measurement - I think that's what Remington has adopted in the past few years!

Lastly, John Hinnant's book on barrel chambering illustrates several methods for dealing with short barrels run thru the headstock. I must say that the split nylon bushing that Malm uses is one I hadn't come across.

As far as to your original question about barrel removal, in my experience ruger barrels remove much easier than remingtons. Since the sides of the action are flat all you need is a big adjustable wrench (I beleive mines a 15") and of course a barrel vise. Good luck to you.