Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Savage 1907 parts needed

Hi guys,
I have a small gunsmith shop in Pa. A customer of mine brought in a Savage pistol in .32 auto. While looking for parts on the web I came across this site.

His pistol is missing the extractor, extractor spring and the loaded chamber indicator.

Anyone know where I might purchase these parts? Numerich is currently out of stock on the extractor and they have no listing for the chamber indicator.

Thanks,

Sean

Loaded chamber indicator is pretty much impossible, unless you buy a parts gun to disassemble. Other parts might pop up on gunbroker eventually, if somebody here doesn't have some leads.

Thanks for the info.
I made a loaded chamber indicator from a long shank, collar type .22 lr extractor. It functions fine and will probably have about the same life as the original part.

"I made a loaded chamber indicator from a long shank, collar type .22 lr extractor. It functions fine and will probably have about the same life as the original part."

This sounds interesting. Do you have some photos of it?

Bill

Sorry to say, I am not savvy enough to post photos. I did photograph it though. If I can convince the House Dragon to post the photos, I will do so.

I found two collar type .22 cal. extractors in the parts cabinet. I am not sure what type of .22 rifle they came from as they were in a drawer of misc. extractors. I got lucky on the shank length and collar diameter- very little fitting needed.

I had to reduce the width of the collar to fit the groove in the barrel and to make it look more like the original part, I rounded the ends of the collar.

From start to finish it only took about 15 minutes.

Actually I need a part for a 1915 hammerless 380. The piece at the rear of the breech block/bolt that covers the area where the cocking lever is on the 1908/1917, and the pin that holds it in place. Lost it while after taking apart to solve a firing problem. Solved the problem, but I guess it must have fallen out of the pistol bag at the range.

I am looking for an ejector and safety catch spring for a Savage 1907. Does anyone out there have them?

Newbie here looking for parts for a 1907. I need a left grip, ejector, saftey catch and a saftey catch spring. I love this pistol and would love to keep it in working order.

see posting #4231984, earlier in this thread

You can get the safety catch and (replacement) grips from Numrich (www.gunpartscorp.com). Be aware that Numrich has the Savage pistol models screwed up, listing the models 1904, 1907, 1908, 1910, and 1917 (yep, three extra models, but no model 1915 -- it's included as part of the mysterious model 1910), and all the diagrams except for the model 1917 are actually for the 1908-1911 production of the model 1907, so include none of the many changes introduced from 1912-1920. What part version you actually get when you order can be a crapshoot. Luckily the model 1917 had few actual mechanical changes from the 1912+ model 1907, so most of the later model 1907 parts also show up there. On the other hand, while a lot of 1907 and 1917 parts look similar to model 1915 parts, many are actually unique to it.

Replacement .32 recoil and striker (firing pin) springs are best bought new from Wolff Gunsprings for about $8 a set (www.gunsprings.com). Unfortunately, Wolff does not carry .380 recoil springs.

Having said that, first determine which of the commonly accepted 14 versions of the .32 model 1907 you have. If you don't have access to the standard Savage reference books, the easiest way is by checking the s/n and asking here.

Model 1907 parts that you are looking for that changed over the years include the ejector and safety catch, although you probably can use any but the earliest versions of these.

Check the usual firearms auction sites and parts sites, as well as gun shows. Savage pistol parts are not common, but do show up.

If you don't have it, get Bailey Brower's recent book "Savage Pistols," which is a treasure trove of information and color photos. If you can find them (good luck!), get a copy of James Carr's "Savage Automatic Pistols" and Daniel Stern's "10 Shots Quick: The Fascinating Story of the Savage Automatic Pistols", both out of print since the late 1960s, but with even more information than Brower's book has (but nothing beats the photos in Brower's book!).

Good luck!

Bill

Hi! Recently bought an early Savage that needs a barrel replaced. This is one of the thin walled barrels. Would you happen to have one in your parts collection?
Greg
Gpcookecomcast.net

Hello All! I just purchased a Savage M1907 .32 French Contract pistol with the original AE holster at a gun show this weekend. The lanyard ring is missing is missing on the pistol (holes are there). I was curious if anyone knows where to get a replacement or dimensions so I could get one made?

What is the serial number of your pistol?

Don't know of a repro maker or replacement.

Here is a sketch and approximate dimensions;



McMaster Carr has many kinds of rod stock.
I'd go with 3/32" dia, experiment to get the radius/arc correct, cut to length and turn right angles.
Don't know whether to use "soft" steel to form, then harden & blue?? or just form & blue.
May take a couple of tries but should get you close.

Hello all! I have had a bit of a snag with a 1917 model Savage that I was given a few years back, it was having some slamfire issues that I was working through- unfortunately information for these old pistols as well as correct parts lists are very scarce.

I was able to infer that some dingus had monkeyed around inside this old relic, stoning or grinding down the firing pin, trigger bar and sear trip catch.

Working with that in mind I was able to acquire the sear trip catch, however the trigger bar I bought from Jack’s first gun parts, labeled as for the 1917 .380ACP, it looks AWFULLY different than the one that was already installed in this gun.

Now, the piece goes in just fine- it actually allows the trip catch to stay in place (it wouldn’t lock in place with the old trigger bar) but given that the numrich schematics do not appear to be correct I purport the following:

Would putting the slightly different trigger bar in affect function? Were the variations in trigger bars so insignificant that they didn’t need to be included in the schematics you find online?

Maybe someone knowledgeable here could please chime in.

Sorry about the heartburn.
Shy of buying a doner pistol and changing any/all the affected parts it's hard to say what the problem/repair is.
I'd suggest decommissioning the thing before someone gets hurt.
The last bubba created a dangerous pistol and ran it down the road. Shameful.
JMO.

I am not quite ready to throw the baby out with the bathwater in a manner of speaking, I am certain that changing the firing pin will solve the problem as I can tell bubba filed or stoned the cone section right before the pin protrusion so that the sear is easily tripped. The sear itself is in immaculate shape but I cannot for the life of me determine why someone would want this thing slamfiring.

I will try to get some photos of the affected parts soon.

What is the serial number?

Let me know if you sill need parts. I have many.

I appreciate it fellows, I get off work at 3 PM Pacific time, I will have some answers for you then!

Well I hope these photos come across ok, the allowed size of embedded images is woefully miniscule.

That said, the serial is 289XXB.

I will start with the firing pin, it looks as if some of the surface area was stoned or ground down, which in turn makes it (to my understanding) easier for the sear to trip causing a slamfire.

Second, the trigger bar/lock. Looks like portions of it were stoned down, additionally the replacement trigger bar I received from Jack’s first is slightly different from the one that was native to my 1917 .380.

To help distinguish between the two I have marked the photo, red circle being the original from my gun and the replacement being the blue “I”.