Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats Rifle "BALANCE" How do you like yours??

In the planning phase of first rifle build with some components in hand and have become concerned after doing some reading about my rifles "balance" To be honest, I never gave it much thought but can now see how important this can be.

How do you guys like for your rifle to "balance" Neutral, front heavy, or rear heavy? also, if you go about this scientifically, where would you want the weight to "pivot" on the rifle? Any information you can give would be greatly appreciated. Right now Im planning to use a pre 64 model 70 action, a factory standard contour 24" Pac Nor bbl ( .30-06) and a stndard fill pre 64 monte carlo McMillan stock. Will use 1 piece bottom metal either from Sunny Hill, Williams, or Pacific Gauge and Tool. How do yo think this will balance? Planning on a 3x9 Swarovski scope in Talley rings. thanks

I like what I consider a neutral balance, with just a skosh toward the front.

Here's how I tell: mount the scope and have the rifle fully ready for hunting (sling, buttstock carrier with shells, shells in the magazine, scope with caps, the works).

At that point, when I carry the gun by the scope using it like a handle, I want the gun to hang exactly neutral or maybe the tiniest bit forward.

Good article here, on light rifles and rifle balance:
http://fmgpublications.ipaperus.com/FMGPublications/GUNS/GUNS0111/

Bruce

I like the balance point to be near the front action screw, preferably between the action face and the screw. I can handle it being a bit further forward on a varmint-ish build, but not much. No long varmint tubes and 2lb stocks for me. I like them just about as much as I like pencil-barrels and 3lb laminates.

JPro,

I have heard for some years that balancing at the front action screw is ideal, but the position of the front action screw varies considerably in different bolt action rifles. Also, many rifles don't have front action screws.

Which is why I started measuring how far the balance point is in front of the trigger, which seems to me to be a more consistent and and meaningful measurement.

I prefer them to pivot on the front action screw and be a tad muzzle heavy.


Do you mean the standard "standard" or the standard featherweight contour?

Nothing there. Must have expired.

Still works for me, but a little slow.

Cleared cache and it still works.

The article starts on p. 56.

???

Bruce

Standard Standard. No featherweight.

The standard fill stock will give you a tad butt-heavy rifle (when compared to the Edge fill).. However, that can easily change when you factor in the finished length of the barrel.. What needs to be known is what YOU feel is the perfect balance for YOU..

If you have a couple other rifles, which one(s) feel right, balance-wise, and then find that balance point.. As MD says, distance from the trigger is a bit more accurate...

I have for years preached (to a small audience) that a slight muzzle heavy feel is desirable. I had a Ruger 77 in 300WM with a factory contour Shilen tube that shot LIGHTS out. I shot several moving deer and it always just felt right although heavy.
Dave

I like the weight in my rifles to be slightly forward of the front action screw on Remington 700s. Not a lot, but just a hair. For me that means light stocks (EDGE or Ti) with a No. 2 or so contour. This assuming Talley LWs and a 12oz or so scope.

When you guys talk about front action screws, are you talking short action or long action?

Either/or for me. A long action 700 might need an extra inch of barrel to balance where I want it, might not. Just depends.

Just so I understand, you like your short and long actions rifles to balance differently?

Nope, I'm saying if there's a smidge more weight behind the front action screw (i.e. a long action), then I like a smidge more in front of it. Longer barrel, heavier contour, etc.

What I'm saying is, the front screws are in different positions on the long and short actions, hence a different balance point.

Look at it this way...

If you consider the front action screw a constant, on a long action, you'll have slightly more "rifle" behind the front action screw, thus to make it balance, you'll need slightly more "rifle" in front of the action screw. Make sense?

That rifle is too heavy for me. I never liked the standard grade M70's for that reason. Sure I have them in the magnum calibers just because.

For a M70 type rifle I like Winchesters famous "Featherweight" barrel contour and length.

The so called balance does not matter that much to me as long as a big game hunting rifle is not too heavy.

I shoot my holding the pistol grip back and letting the shot go as the aim moves towards the center on stationary targets. On moving targets I prefer a light barrel.

I've yet to read the article, but going through this thread, Mule Deer's post on taking the measurement from the trigger makes more sense to me than taking the measurement from the front action screw. To me, balance and feel relates to the rifle balanced within the grasp of my two hands. My grip at the wrist with my finger on the trigger is the only consistent location to take measurements, as it would be the same start point on every rifle I grasp, similar to length of pull. On the other hand, I could have the front action screw located in ten different places with ten different rifles.

What I'd like to add reference my preference of balance, is that balance alone is not always the key. One could take two identical rifles in weight and stagnant balance, but with the first having more percentage of its weight towards the ends compared to the second. Though they both balance equally when the rifles are held in a stagnant neutral position, the first may act end heavy and more sluggish compared to the second when moving and swinging the rifles in a dynamic situation. Like race cars, some rifle builds give you the flexability to remove and/or add weight in specific locations to tailor this weight percentage in relation to the rifles balanced center.

Best:)