Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Cracked Forend on Citori

Gents,

This is my first post, please bear with me. I am considering (via online auction) purchasing an O/U shotgun with a professionally repaired crack to the forend. The crack is an inch long and right where the top of the forend meets the receiver. I can;t seem to get an answer on whether this indicates an ongoing problem with the gun, or whether it's "no big deal." It's a 20-yr old Belgian made beauty that I probably won't lose money on (ha ha), but I don't want to get saddled with tons of aggravation.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

JJ

I thought Citori's were always made in Japan - mine was made in 1980 or so and was Japanese made.

Anyway, if you buy it at a good price, you can always buy a new forend, if the "professionally repaired crack " is not to your liking. I know of no faults in the Citori - my 12 gauge Superlight is a dream to carry and has no problems. Good guns.

no big deal if the repair was done right. call Browning they may replace it free for you.

Pardon me, it's not a Citori, it's a "Lightning," made in Belgium in the early 90's. I was worried about the risk of a mechanical problem creating the crack, or over-soaking with gun oil weakening the wood. Some people are passionate about never buying anything with a cracked stock. My thought is that the forend is under less stress than the buttstock and the crack is in an area where the wood is thinnest, making it the most logical place for a typical crack to form. I'm just nervous about buying a gun with troubles. That said, I'm a scrounger by nature and would always rather get a better gun used than a lesser gun new.

JJ

Sorry, not the early 90's (wrong gun in my mind). I'm sourcing the date now. The gun auction process has me uptight and in too much of a hurry. I appreciate both of your help?

JJ

It'll be fine. I've seen a lot of them like that. It doesnt serve any mechanical purpose...just aesthetics. The wood is thin(er) there. I've always thought it was from spraying/wiping down the barrel when you're done shooting and it weakens the wood. Then it breaks while putting it together or taking it apart.If it's Belgian made, I'm guessing it was made in the 60's. It could be later, but it seems like most I see were made in the 60's.

"Lightning" is a version of several different Browning models. Superposed Ligtnings were made in Belgium whereas previously pointed out Lightning Citori's are Japanese made. You need to figure out what model and a whole lot more background on ths gun before making any bids. Stocks for Super's are not availible thru the factory anymore while citori's are. just my 2 cts worth. Magnum Man

there is a very significant difference in value between a Belgian superposed Lightning and a Citori Lightning, so you better get that straightened out for sure before you make any binding offers.

in either event, a forend crack is no big deal.

Thanks guys!

It's a Browning Lightning Grade I with a 30" barrel, made in Belgium. Although it doesn't have any more identifiers on it than "Lightning" and "Made in Belgium," it's not a Citori. The seller told me the corner chipped off during reassembly. I couldn't post a picture here (GunBroker item# 217919788, I don't know if you can't, or I just didn't know how). I took the plunge for $1,000, figuring I could only get hurt so badly. The annoyance will be fooling around withit to "get it right" if it's not what I want.

Steve NO, I'll get my prfile up soon adn you'll see we share an affinity for The Duke!

Thanks again!

JJ

JJ

Definitely can't get hurt on a 30" Belgian Browning for $1000. Seen some rough ones go for more...

Long as you can return it,if it has been misrepresented. One thing to watch for on the old Superposed guns is a vent rib that is coming unsoldered,sometimes hard to tell. So when it gets to you take some WD-40 or G96 and spray along the rib -barrel juncture and lightly press the rib to the barrel with your hand. If any bubbles or liquid oozes out, send it back cause that is a very spendy repair. The old Supers were very tightly choked for the markings on them, you gotta remember most were made before the advent of plastic wads.Not being critical at all, I really like my old Magnum Field grade 30" fuller x fuller. Magnum Man

Thanks Guys!

I got it home today ("as is" I can't return it). So far, I haven't done the rib test yet, but I noticed the selector switch is jammed to the right. I recently saw one for sale in similar condition. Do you know if this is a typical problem? The other thing is I need to find a choke wrench to remove the two that it came with and see about getting a set of chokes. The seller says they're modified and "improved modified." They each have four slots (12, 3,6 and 9 o'clock). I'm looking for a source to determine which aftermarket/Browning chokes will fit. As soon as I get one out, I'll have a running start! The wood looks really good. The gun fits to my shoulder well and seems to function properly. I forgot to check on this blog for a few days. Best, JJ

Now you are confusing us again. Supers all had fixed chokes. So did early Citori's. Maybe you need to post some pictures. Could be aftermarket thin wall chokes, but that seems unlikely in a "lightning".

Hi Jerry,

Here's the link to the gun. It does seem like the barrel walls are thinner than on my other shotgun (not in these photos).


[img]http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=217919788[/img]

I have a photo of the front of the barrels in a jpeg file, but I can't seem to get it to post here. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.


They did make Superposed Brownings with screw-in chokes according to the Browning website. To further confuse things, I called the Browning Choke Store (not part of FN Browning) and they said not all are marked on end of the barrels at the receiver (mine is not marked).

I'll have to unscrew these and see if I can source them. If I had to guess, it seems that the walls are too thin to be stock. Would that be because the barrels are thicker on guns destined for factory screw-in chokes? That seems odd too.

This is the problem with buying a gun without a history or somebody you know to rely on.

Oh well, I hope to know more soon.

JJ

That looks like a 60's vintage Superposed that has had quite a bit of work done to it. I can't make out the serial number, but it looks like it ends in S4. The S means 12 ga. Superposed and the last digit is the year of manufacture. (4 would be 1964). The adjustable stock looks well done. The rib almost looks like a Broadway trap rib. Choke tubes may be Briley's or from several others. I would say you got a reasonable deal as long as you intend to shoot it. Collector value is gone. The case is worth $150.

I have a 50's vintage that is my favorite pheasant gun.

Jerry

It ends in "S5." I do intend to shoot it and avoided some collectible full/full choked guns because of that. My thought was that I'd rather have a Belgian Browning than a Citori for around the same money. I'll get out and get an appropriate choke wrench and let you know how that goes. It's really a nice looking gun and feels mechanically solid. I won't know until I get out and shoot it, though.

I have a 1948-vintage A-5 that I like, although it has a PolyChoke that needs a new gasket. My gun club has cracked down on enforcing thatwe all police our own shells and it was time to move to an O/U. I have a well-built Turkish O/U that I'm now going to sell as it doesn't fit me that well and I don't think it will outlast my new Browning.

I appreciate your help!

JJ