On my 2001 Chevy Silverado the drivers side power window has a broken cable that operates the up and down of the window. Does anyone know what parts I will need to fix this???
Just lift up on panel a bit and it is free. Unplug speaker and door light and set aside.
Ultra schmeng glue tar on the plastic that covers the inside of the door shell is awful. Peel some away to get access to holes or just take it off carefully.
Re-attach switch to slowly lower window a bit to see the two pinch bolts that hold the lift frame to the bottom of the window. Loosen bolts and hold window up while you retract frame. Place a screwdriver or something in one of the panel holes to hold window up While you finish removing regulator.
You will see all the bolts that hold the regulator etc in. Just remove them and put your new one in and reverse the above. May have to add some tape to the plastic to get it to stay.
Took me longer to type than to do it... The plastic covers and switch panel just pop back on. Keep track of the clips. They usually stay affixed but sometimes they pop off...
Woofer
"I would build one again, if it were not for my 350RM (grin)."
Just lift up on panel a bit and it is free. Unplug speaker and door light and set aside.
Ultra schmeng glue tar on the plastic that covers the inside of the door shell is awful. Peel some away to get access to holes or just take it off carefully.
Slowly lower window a bit to see the two pinch bolts that hold the lift frame to the bottom of the window. Loosen bolts and hold window up while you retract frame. Place a screwdriver or something in one of the panel holes to hold window up While you finish removing regulator.
You will see all the bolts that hold the regulator etc in. Just remove them and put your new one in and reverse the above. May have to add some tape to the plastic to get it to stay.
Took me longer to type than to do it... The plastic covers and switch panel just pop back on. Keep track of the clips. They usually stay affixed but sometimes they pop off...
Woofer
That is an awesome tutorial to use if you need to tear your door apart.
Just lift up on panel a bit and it is free. Unplug speaker and door light and set aside.
Ultra schmeng glue tar on the plastic that covers the inside of the door shell is awful. Peel some away to get access to holes or just take it off carefully.
Re-attach switch to slowly lower window a bit to see the two pinch bolts that hold the lift frame to the bottom of the window. Loosen bolts and hold window up while you retract frame. Place a screwdriver or something in one of the panel holes to hold window up While you finish removing regulator.
You will see all the bolts that hold the regulator etc in. Just remove them and put your new one in and reverse the above. May have to add some tape to the plastic to get it to stay.
Took me longer to type than to do it... The plastic covers and switch panel just pop back on. Keep track of the clips. They usually stay affixed but sometimes they pop off...
It's pathetic when a vehicle has such a weak spot that a guy gets highly proficient fixing it repeatedly. I had a late '80's Subaru with a weak spot - the front CV joints. I got really good with those. Luckily, after market axles came with lifetime warranties so I was only out my labor. They were only good for 30 to 40k so I averaged 1 side per 15 to 20k.
“In a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” ― George Orwell
It's not over when you lose. It's over when you quit.
It's pathetic when a vehicle has such a weak spot that a guy gets highly proficient fixing it repeatedly. I had a late '80's Subaru with a weak spot - the front CV joints. I got really good with those. Luckily, after market axles came with lifetime warranties so I was only out my labor. They were only good for 30 to 40k so I averaged 1 side per 15 to 20k.
Pretty funny I have had 2 Subarus..one was fine but I only held onto it for 30k the other I got rid of when it hit 120k and it is slowly falling the [bleep] apart for the new owner. So much for their ruggedness.
Guess what, motor #5 crapped out today. Passenger side this time. Now it needs that plus a RF wheel hub because the wheel speed sensor can't be fixed.
Who wants it? 2002 Silverado Ex Cab, 4x4, LS, bucket seats, loaded, Leer cap. 112,500 miles.
I gotta say that really sucks. I would be getting rid of it as well
On the way home from a dealer after coming within a whisker of making a deal, I pulled into my driveway and walked behind my truck and found a trail of oil coming from underneath. No biggie, just a crack in the rear of the transfer case! A cool $650 to swap out my gears into a new case.
Guess what, motor #5 crapped out today. Passenger side this time. Now it needs that plus a RF wheel hub because the wheel speed sensor can't be fixed.
Who wants it? 2002 Silverado Ex Cab, 4x4, LS, bucket seats, loaded, Leer cap. 112,500 miles.
I gotta say that really sucks. I would be getting rid of it as well
On the way home from a dealer after coming within a whisker of making a deal, I pulled into my driveway and walked behind my truck and found a trail of oil coming from underneath. No biggie, just a crack in the rear of the transfer case! A cool $650 to swap out my gears into a new case.
Anybody want it now??
Dude, you have a black cloud following you around.. get rid of it ASAP
get rid of it ASAP 
