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OP
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I need some help for a rifle I bought. Previous owner had a gunsmith try a bedding job but ended up glueing it in. It is a standard McMillan stock and a Rem 700 ADL LA that has a teflon Birdsong Green-T finish. Says the gunsmith used "5 minute epoxy". What can I use to safely get this apart without damaging the stock or finish? It only appears to be glues at the front of the receiver. Many thanks in advance.
"The mightiest oak was a small nut that held it's ground."
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Joined: May 2008
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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If you have a big enough freezer try putting it in there. Might just be enough contraction to break the bond.
Dry ice would probably work better.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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Campfire Tracker
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Heat's also an option, but not sure about ruining the finish.
I'd try the freezer first, then pack it with dry ice if it didn't come loose.
molɔ̀ːn labé skýla
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Campfire Tracker
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Heat gets glue-ins apart, not cold.
This method works every time with no stock damage:
With the rings off, set a common household clothes iron across the bases and set it to 'High' or the 'Cotton' setting. Put a small wooden wedge between the barrel and the barrel channel at the tip of the stock and lightly tap it in until there's a bit of pressure exerted between the barrel and stock. Within 10-15 minutes, the epoxy will release.
Make sure the clothes iron isn't a model that has an auto shutoff if it's in the flat position for too long.
Can't say for sure about the Birdsong finish...but this method didn't harm a Robar finish.
Good shootin'. -Al
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Campfire Outfitter
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Heat gets glue-ins apart, not cold.
This method works every time with no stock damage:
With the rings off, set a common household clothes iron across the bases and set it to 'High' or the 'Cotton' setting. Put a small wooden wedge between the barrel and the barrel channel at the tip of the stock and lightly tap it in until there's a bit of pressure exerted between the barrel and stock. Within 10-15 minutes, the epoxy will release.
Make sure the clothes iron isn't a model that has an auto shutoff if it's in the flat position for too long.
Can't say for sure about the Birdsong finish...but this method didn't harm a Robar finish.
Good shootin'. -Al
Al you know all the little tricks! 
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Actually cold makes the metal contract and may very well allow the Barreled action to be removed , without damaging the epoxy . I've never had to do it , but a gunsmith friend has had to do it a few times , worked every time .
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I agree with the cold camp. I bought a used 40-X once that was glued in to the fiberglass BR stock. I was fortunate enough to have access to a walk-in freezer. I left it in there overnight, then quickly got it clamped in to a padded vise, gave it a whack with a rubber mallet, and it popped apart on the second hit. Not to say that it didn't make me nervous though! 
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Campfire Tracker
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Al you know all the little tricks! There's a reason heat should be used instead of cold on unintentional  glue ins...which is what the o.p. has. Good shootin'. -Al
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Try cold first to the extent convenient. Folks have tried Kroil for luck too.
The easy works most every time is an electric dipstick engine heater down the barrel.
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Al you know all the little tricks! There's a reason heat should be used instead of cold on unintentional glue ins...which is what the o.p. has. Good shootin'. -Al And the reason is ... ?
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FJB
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Unintentional glue-ins usually have bedding compound in areas that can physically lock the barrelled action to the stock....magazine cuts, around the trigger, etc, etc. Heat releases the epoxy in all areas. Pounding on a cold stock that's locked into place by epoxy being were it's not supposed to be is a good way to break a stock..or at least break chunks of stock off. Heat's easy, it always works and you don't risk breaking the stock. Good shootin'. -Al
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Heat is all I ever use. A cheap clothes iron placed on the bases for about 15 minutes works like a charm. I'm with Al on this.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Unintentional glue-ins usually have bedding compound in areas that can physically lock the barrelled action to the stock....magazine cuts, around the trigger, etc, etc. Heat releases the epoxy in all areas. Pounding on a cold stock that's locked into place by epoxy being were it's not supposed to be is a good way to break a stock..or at least break chunks of stock off. Heat's easy, it always works and you don't risk breaking the stock. Good shootin'. -Al I've always heard "cold" but your method does sound like it is the way to go. Thank god I've never glued one in  .
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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I agree with the cold camp. I bought a used 40-X once that was glued in to the fiberglass BR stock. I was fortunate enough to have access to a walk-in freezer. I left it in there overnight, then quickly got it clamped in to a padded vise, gave it a whack with a rubber mallet, and it popped apart on the second hit. Not to say that it didn't make me nervous though! This solution should work. Strike the under side of the barrel near the tip of the forearm of the stock with the stock held firm in a padded vise. Don't clamp the vise near the recoil lug area or you will only tighten the area that you want to release.
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Campfire Greenhorn
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I need some help for a rifle I bought. Previous owner had a gunsmith try a bedding job but ended up glueing it in. It is a standard McMillan stock and a Rem 700 ADL LA that has a teflon Birdsong Green-T finish. Says the gunsmith used "5 minute epoxy". What can I use to safely get this apart without damaging the stock or finish? It only appears to be glues at the front of the receiver. Many thanks in advance. I didn't take the time to review other posts so if this is redundant I apologize. When peeling apart "glue in" bench rest rifles for restocking, building, etc. . . the best method I've found is to turn a piece of AL/Brass that'll just slip into the receiver bore. Let it extend pass the tang by about 3" and then heat the snot out of it with either a rosebud/propane torch. It'll transfer the heat to the receiver, cook the epoxy and will peel apart like an onion. you won't cook the stock's core/shell this way and if the action is blued it won't hurt the finish either. Good luck. C. Used this method for years with 100% success.
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Chad,
This will work, but it will melt a clearcoat or painted surface.
Butch
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Cold does work, if you have a 70 below freezer. My old friend disassembles intentional glue-ins this way. Either way works with the iron the easiest.
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Campfire Tracker
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Cold for tight bedding jobs that have a release agent on the metal.
As Al said for glue ins.
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