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I just picked up a FX111 6x42. I'll be mounting it on a 20 moa base so I'm figuring around 50 useable moa of the 64. Adjustment will be sufficient for 1000 yds and I am wondering how much parralax error I can expect. I believe the parralax is set at 150 yds.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
oklahunter,

Yeah, I would expect that lining up the two aiming points would eliminate parallax.

The same thing happens when we hold our head far enough back from a scope that we don't see the entire field of view. Instead we're seeing the exit pupil--and if we center the exit pupil in the rear lens parallax is eliminated.



The dreaded "black around the image". Somewhere in Alaska Art's head is exploding.




This is a technique I use all the time shooting long range with my non-parallax-adjustable scopes. Pull back a bit to minimize parallax.





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That's really interesting...... thanks JeffO the information is much appreciated. Don't know why I had never thought of that it's really a quite simple concept.

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You might find it a bit awkward to use in the field however..... E

Last edited by Eremicus; 03/23/12.
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Originally Posted by Eremicus
You might find it a bit awkward to use in the field however..... E


In the field I will be limiting my distances unless a more than favorable situation presents itsself. Even then the shooting will be limitd vs shooting from the bench. However I like shooting as far as I can from the bench as I feel it makes me far more efficient for my shorter shots in the field.

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JB, do you have the actual magnification specs for the Leupold VX-III 2.5-8x36 (rifle)scope? Thanks.


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Mo,

according to Leupold website 2,6-7,8x.

http://www.leupold.com/hunting-and-shooting/products/scopes/vx-3-riflescopes/vx-3-2-5-8x36mm/

Hope this helps and all is well.

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That's very interesting ,I like shooting as far as I can from the bench .


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What's the upper end magnification where parralax starts to creep in? I favour 2-7X variables. I start to lose sub MOA at 300-400 yards with one of my rifles. 1.5 average groups at 220 yards and 5" at 400 yards. I assumed it was the effect of slight shifts in wind but now wonder if I am seeing the effects of uncorrected parralax at 7X?

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" If we really practice with our hunting rifles (which doesn't mean shooting a bunch of groups from a benchrest), then we should be able to find the chest of a wild boar at 10 yards with a 2.5-10x Zeiss Victory Diavari scope set on 6x, with its over-30-inch field of view � or a mule deer in the 7-foot field of a 3-9x40 Leupold VX-II at 50 yards. Most notions about field of view were formed back in our grandfather's day, when scopes had tiny eyepieces, but modern scopes have far more field. "



I agree 100% with this paragraph and have found it to be very important to those of us who do more walking than stalking, and what I call jump shooting where the game is either pushed or on the move.


I used to shoot at a range with an old ore cart set on a track, with 2 plywood deer set 90 degree's apart. 1st shooter called the deer to advance ( motor and cable driven cart- below shooting height to protect it from damage), and at about 120 yards, when it came from behind a dirt birm one had about 10 seconds to attempt 3 shots at the deer. At the end of the track was another burm and a ramp that flipped the plywood deer holder so the next shooter could send 3 bullets at the second deer. At the end ( or start, as it where)someone like myself used a headphone set to relay hits, both in a grid and a center "kill" circle pattern back to the rangemaster to display to the shooters. Scores varied from a low of 2 points from a hoof to a poor shot, up to a 5x which was the center of the shoulder joint above the heart. Shooting 2x ( and 3 per) , then 2 more runs from opposite direction had 12 shots, 6 right to left, and 6 left to right. after a few years most of my scores were 55 to "one" perfect 60, and I also ended up trying a "skeet shooters " method to making it more difficult, dropping the bolt gun from my shoulder betwen shots.


After many years of shooting running deer on 9x, I was pretty quick in the field to find moving game, good trigger control and seldom hesitation once the choice to send a bullet was determined. I have heard of rolling a tire down a hill with the center filled with paper, which is probably a pretty good replication if the tire stays upright long enough.


Practice, and using one gun, can make shooting much more pleasurable and sucessful.


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Hey John,

Is there any reason to use a scope with over 7X if most of your hunting is in woods and you'll probably never get a 300+ yard shot?

Thanks

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I went to Africa with a VX-R 3-9. The lighted reticle was wonderful at twilight (when I took my Oryx) but I really wished for more magnification through the brush. I was afraid of the parallax problem, even under 200 yards (where I limit myself for the 9.3x62) which is why I selected a 3-9 as my primary scope.

Do you have a recommendation for how high a power it is safe to go without parallax adjustment? Maybe I would have been better off with a higher quality 3-9 or 3.5-10 than the Leupold?

Thoughts?

Last edited by Rodell; 09/29/12.

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Woodsmaster,

Sorry I missed your question of a month ago!

You can get a little more "twilight factor" from a 3-10x50 in dim light than with any 7x, because apparent brightness is also partly a matter of magnification.


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Rodell,

I've never seen a 3-9x 3-10x with enough parallax at 200 yards to make any difference on big game, and usually there's none. I have, however, seen a few with maybe 3" of parallax at 300 yards, but that's rare. The best thing is to test any of your scopes at longer ranges for parallax if it's a concern.

Most scopes up to 10x don't have parallax adjustments, because it's such a minor factor n big game scopes up to that magnification.


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Muledeer...quick question. Saw a picture of you with a javelina you took with one of the new Cabelas Model 70 Super-Grade Lightweight .257 Roberts. What power of scope was on it if I might ask.

I also have one of those beautiful little Bob's. Took awhile to find one with the wood I wanted, but was well worth the search.


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The scope ws a Cabela's Euro (Meopta) 3-9x.

Those are pretty nice rifles! Congratulations.


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Hey,

If any of you guys have been afraid to bother this guy "MULE DEER" with your questions on rifle scopes, handloading, or hunting. I'm here to tell you Don't Be. John is one heck of a nice guy and his suggestions where very helpful!

I personally would like to Thank John for being available for anyone to be able to correspond with and share his experience and knowledge.

I hope one day to be able to share a hunting camp fire with Mule Deer, cause I'd like to shake his hand.

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As I grow older and my eyes are not quite what they used to be,hell I've been wearing glasses since I was five,so they have never been that great.I really like scopes with higher magnification.These days,I'm liking my 12x and 15x more and more.I find myself shooting really good groups with the higher magnification,so why turn it down?I think it really depends on your eyesight in general.Me being far-sighted,with really bad astigmatism,my choice may be a good choice for me.I remember Mule Deer writing about Eileen liking a higher magnification too.It really depends on just how well "you see"I also have to agree,we are very lucky to have Mule Deer to help us when we need it.Thank You,John Barsness.


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Hello, I am a big fan of leupolds m8's 4x and 6x. I would seem to shoot my 99's better with them, you might have explained why. Thanks 4 that! My question is installing a LRD in them. Leupold said on the 6x it would work for a .308/300 sav. I am confused however, I would normally install cpc reticles in them. I did think the extra dots on the crosshair could be used to range estimate. I have not shot the 6x yet. Do you think a LRD reticle would work in a 6 or 4 m8? Thanks.


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