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Parallax--what a pain it is sometimes. I remember several years ago I had an XP-100 built up in 7-270 WSM/16" 7-T Pac-Nor to shoot the 200-gr. Wildcat bullet out of to maximize the effective range of my specialty pistol big game hunting. Kirby Allen built it and he told me from the get-go that the HS-Precision stock might not hold up to the torque created from the big bullet/twist combination using a bipod (and he was right). I put the ever-popular 3-12x Burris LER pistol scope on it and started to develop loads, and for the life of me I couldn't get anything to best 2 MOA. After the last group was shot I was sitting at the bench just frustrated as all hell, when as a last resort I thought to check parallax. Sure enough it was as big as the group. When I adjusted the AO for it, the next group gave me .5-.75 MOA and I went hunting. Got this nice buck with that combo too that week at 375 yds. The only nice buck I've ever shot really--

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Thks. MD for all your articles I've read over the years. Always considered you in high standing amongst my favorite shooting writers sir.

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please advise: my 1st time submitting. have no idea if i am doing this correctly. hope this is a start. please pass on to whoever or whatever forum where this question should possibly need to go. *if passed on, please let me know where this message has gone, so i van follow up.
*point blank factor using a duplex reticle as range calculator
am hoping to find a more precise explanation on the following, to better assist others in calculating shooting range factors using a duplex reticle. would appreciate any input you or others may have.

example: using a 3X9 scope w / duplex reticle and scope power is set at ~ 6X/6 power.
having difficulty clearly explaining briefly and concisely.
OK, with known range and using specific load, ~ 308 win Rem 150 gr. core-lokt bullets with a previously known zero at yardage, if game animal / target falls w /in the horizontal fine reticle wire and is between the heavy stadia vertical post have been using rough estimate of +/- 18 inch bottom of chest for deer and +/- 24 inch for elk. i realize some game animals may be larger or smaller. field experience and open mind, are helpful. if kill zone / impact area is larger than the duplex describe area then game / target is closer than ~point bank; aim right on desired bullet impact area and if target appears smaller than w / in the small horizontal wire and the heavy vertical lower post the target is farther away than "know point of impact / point blank" ..., aim higher according to shooting skill and present field conditions or pass and do not shoot.
may 2013 issue of NRA rifleman magazine had somewhat of an article using scope reticles. explanation became more than i was hoping to see in print once again. as best i remember, some of the article dealt w / comparison w / mildot usage.
it was over my head and seemed more complicated tan an article i read many, many years ago. i do not remember writers name or name of outdoor type magazine the article was in.
what id did read at that time +/- 1970's or early 1980's was extremely impressive. drew up a rough sketch, but do not know how to download digital image of it to show what it is i am struggling to explain and am sure there is some one here in the forums that may understand what it is that i am trying to say. best i can do for now. thanks,

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John,

Where I hunt, it's all open ranch land and the shots range from 300-500 yards. We have the dreaded "3 point min" and a metric butt load of huge 2X2 mulies. That makes almost all of us carry around spotters with our other gear.

I'm looking for a variable rifle scope that tops out near 20X to help confirm three on one side. CDS type preferred, BDC or Boone and Crockett would work, I guess. We tend to use range finders a lot, as well. I'm sporting a 243 AI, if that matters.

What's the best tradeoff for weight, price and magnification in your opinion?

Thanks!


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I'd look at the Burris Fullfield E1 6.5-20. It retails for around $450, has good optics, weighs 19 ounces, and you can either crank it up or down or use one of Burris's ballistic reticles. The only disadvantage is it has an adjustable objective, rather than side-focus.

Another would be the Vortex Viper 6.5-20x50. It's a 30mm scope so is two ounces heavier, but has side-focus. Real-world price is about the same.


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Thanks,

Would you choose them over the Leupold Mark AR MOD 1 6-18x40mm Riflescopes?

I can get a CDS type dial for my load.


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David,

It's a little more expensive, but lighter than the other two, though like the Burris it has an AO rather than side-focus. But if the CDS is what you want, then that's what you should get.


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John, apart from the low light advantage, do you think a large objective scope will resolve detail more betterer (to be an advantage to the user) than a smaller objective at the same power?




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Bick or Flintstone.Parden me With a grin.

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I don't have the opportunity to practice much at the range beyond 200 yards, with the occasional trip to a range in Sacramento for 300 yard work. So I almost never need a scope with a parallax adjustment. When I do, I set it at 200 yards and never take a shot beyond 300. Besides I think it is more fun to get close to the critter first.


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MD, allow me to add some specifics.

What sticks in my head is what the bird guy wrote around Y2K--something like "theoretically an 8x32 will show you all there is to see" ...am curious if a 56mm objective resolves detail well enough to be a visual improvement over a 42mm objective of equal quality and power in da daylight at a range of 400ish yards.

Ordinarily I buy the stuff and check it out for myself. I did snag an 8x56 S&B scope with the foil version reticle in case it was a daylight wash. But then chit happens and it's in the right eye, an intermittent blurring-it became apparent shooting paper when a cloud rolled in front of the crosshair on a clear day...one can imagine the joys looming ahead in the "golden years"...

Would appreciate yer thoughts as detail comparisons look to be on hold for a while.



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Tom,

A larger objective lens does provide more detail, everything else being equal. This is because in good optical systems, the major aberrations occur around the edges of the objective lens, mostly due to two factors: That's where it's "bent" most severely, and also bounces off the tube. This results in both fuzziness, and random light bouncing around inside the scope, which reduces contrast.

A larger objective has less edge per surface area than a smaller objective, so there's less light scattered, so the image is sharper. This effect is most obvious in dimmer light, but with really small objectives can be seen in bright light. An outfitter I once worked for was really thrilled when he was given a 10x20 Zeiss as a tip by a client. He was equally disappointed when I could see more detail through a 10x42 that cost a third as much. I handed it to him and he could too!



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MD,

You mention the CDS system here. I have been striving rather hard to make a decision on scope for a specific project I have had in mind. One of the things I want is some form of BDC reticle or turrets for longer ranges. I pretty much have decided on the turrets, but have been advised by quite a few people that for an all purpose scope that could see use on horseback, Africa, long range, short fast shooting etc....unlocked exposed turrets are a bad idea. Some have given personal examples of range getting changed accidentally and missing snap shots at close range because of it and suggest always checking zero setting before shooting, but most just tell me, lock 'em or forget it.

This would either rule out turrets or narrow the list to a very few choices (Leica ERi, some HD5's, Superslam, etc.)

What is your opinion on this?

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I'm of the same opinion--but if the adjustments are reliable in any scope--and can be turned by hand--then it's easy to mark your own turret. I do it all the time, with adhesive paper or tape covered by tough, clear tape. Apparently Formidilosus does the same thing too, judging from some photos he's posted!


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Thanks John.

I did some low light comparisons earlier this year and could see improvement but not perhaps not enough to overcome the objection to carrying the thing. I imagine (my current limitation) the 42 won't be giving up enough in broad daylight to hit "practical"

We sold some optics back in the day on the side and a Doc friend had to have to have a 20mm Swaro as the ultimate bino for stillhunting whitetail in the UP. Its reign didn't last long...:)


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Yep, there's always a balance between handy and good! While almost any binocular beats no binocular, I don't have any "pocket" binoculars anymore.


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MD,

Thanks for the response! So just to clarify, what you are recommending is that if a scope is to have exposed turrets that they should be lockable to preclude accidental changes, am I understanding that correctly?

Thanks!

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MD, any guess as to the percentage of variable scopes in the 2-8 or 3-9 range from "every" vender where the parallax is not set correctly? I am thinking "many of them"

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Quote
Guys, the emails go out, but they can get caught in spamtraps or blacklists. You might check for the old ones there.


Wouldn't it be simpler to just post the articles here?

Just because "e-mails go out" doesn't mean they arrive, and I feel certain most are smart enough to look in the spam folder before they tell you it didn't come.

I live in the middle of nowhere, with AOL dial up, and there are LOTS of E mails that don't ever arrive here.

I couldn't vote on the SWFA thread because the E mails just don't go through

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One shot, one kill........ It saves a lot of ammo!
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