Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades D2 vs S30V

You look at these two steels and you see that they are about the same Rockwell hardness in a knife blade, 59-61 or 59-60 both in about the same range. What is the advantage of one or the other or is it a mute point? I thought about picking up another folding buck 110 in s30v from caballas but they have a griptillian in d2 for a few bucks more. I think I like the 110 style blade for what I do. Then the buck looks like a stronger knife than the griptillian.

Knowing how good Buck is with their heat treat, I'd think the S30V from them would be exceptional.

S30V has a somewhat finer grain structure and a little more corrosion/rust resistance over D2. To me, the S30V is less "toothy" in comparison to D2, and gives a smoother polished edge.


I have D2 and S30V, but both are from the Dozier/Crotts shops. They are simply perfect for their applications. The D2 handles deer like a champ, and the S30V gets saltwater fish duty.

the griptialian handle does not look all that strong either.

buck has their s30 heatreat right on. i've used several knives in both alloys & find the s30 will hold a fine edge longer but after d2 drops down some in keenness it will hold a working edge for a long-long time. s30 is certainly more corrosion resistance but d2 usually just gets surface tarnish.--dennis

My experience exactly matches WTM45 and cranky if the heat treat is correct and I can vouch for Buck's heat treat. I think you said the magic words when you mentioned you like the Buck blade shape. They are both great cutters and with reasonable care will perform very well but the wrong blade shape can't be overcome with metallurgy.

I have the Buck 110 Alaskan Guide in S30V. It was heat treated by BOS. That seems to be important from what I have read. It is scary sharp. It doesn't see much use, but I would use it in a minute. Carried as a backup.

D2 vs S30V is a toss up in my world. I have customs in both and do not do my own sharpening.

I'll never buy another blade in D2 if only for it's ease in rusting like a bitch inside my wet pack on a several day hunt.

Just curious..

What blade steel have you found that does NOT rust when stored in a wet pack for several days with no maintenance??

I happen to have a Kryptonite blade that was forged from ore from the planet Krypton, and it absolutely will not rust when stored in a wet pack for several days with no maintenance.

I had one of those but had to get rid of it. I kept feeling really weak every time I put my pack on.

LMFAO

My lost S30V Ingram never rusted nor do any of my Forschner parers/boners. S30V Kershaw hasn't rusted either for that matter or a $5 Wally World Winchester folder.

I have both steels but never let either get dull enough to fully understand the differences.

I carry an oiled rag in a baggie when on extended hunts and wipe down my equipment each night. If your D2 blade is rusting I'll guarantee your rifle is in worse shape. A stainless/titanium rifle will rust on the bolt face and the rear of the firing pin.

I have the D2 Griptilian. I am not impressed with the knife. I would opt for the Buck.

Being able to put a good edge on a knife is almost more important than the type of steel.

That being said today's steels SV30, or D2 are awesome.

Putting a great edge on SV30 is harder to do than on D2 however once sharp SV30 is krazy sharp ans stays that way a great while.

The best sharpening rigg out the is the edge pro, couple that with patients and good steel and you be impressed.

Spot