Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Finally good Optilock screws

It ended up being a pretty serious project but I got a mini-lathe and finally got a good source for a nice alloy screw that matches the threads for the sako optilock rings exactly.

I had to turn down the heads so they'd fit, then I had to re-blue them and put a protective oil coat on them but these suckers take plenty of torque without deforming like Sako's factory screws.

I did a bunch for my Sako's already - Cost... way too much if you count the lathe ! LOL....

Here's some pictures - sorry for the fuzziness -
Before anyone asks... I'll likely start making some for other folks who are interested but I need to buy more screws and make up a bunch first.

Here's the lathe with a screw rigged up


Pictures of the raw screws, plus the turned down heads


Here's how they look in a stainless ring after I blued one with OXO.


Spot

It's amazing that they can't just give a guy good screws in the first place.The tikka ring screws same thing.... Junk....

I am sure that there is a market for this as Sako ring screws were ALWAYS bad..

I can remember getting some from Sako Canada and the heads fell off the first time used.


Glenn

Cool! Are the new screws Torx or Allen head?

Metric allen head

Please post when you're ready to start "production". Would certainly pick some up!

2nd that

Will do waiting on a order of screws and a good deal of time to convert them

I've got a question for you. I'm not a Sako optilock owner, but after reading this thread, I think I would try something different. Why not drill and thread the ring bottoms 8X40 and open the countersink in the ring tops? Then you could choose from any number of good torx or allen screws. That way if you ever need to replace a screw, it'll be simple. Should be a pretty easy modification. Just a suggestion.

Bob

One gent on 24 hr did re tap his rings to a standard thread so he could use a non metric screw.

Personally I don't trust that method because it could weaken the threads in the ring and frankly my problem is I tighten the screws so much it stretches the soft sako screw heads. So the best way to end up with the most solid rig (to me) iwas to get a good solid screw with the same threads.

Plus those rings are not cheap, a guy can't change re threading but you can swap back to the old screws if you want to swap the rings out for a different kind, and folks get funny about modifications if ya sell them.
Iit's also posibble to jack up a re- thread job, in which case it would have been better to get screws.

I just didn't end up there.

First rule of working on guns. Modify the cheapest easiest to replace or fix if you [bleep] it up part first. Even if it is more time consuming.

Maybe Sako designed the rings with softer than normal screws to try to negate the efforts of the "passion fingers" amongst us....just a thought.

T3 ring replacement screws were available at my local Tru Value hardware store. They're hardened stainless allen head cap screws for ring tops and dovetail clamp. They look good.

I sure this is the case,however my Optilock screw heads were machined poorly enough that the same wrench fit each head with different tollerences.A couple were so tight I could barely remove the wrench.Some were so loose I thought they would fail before reaching proper torque.This was on a new set opened by me.

Here, too. Haven't stripped one yet, but took both metric and sae wrenches to get the best socket fit, and still some fit sloppily and felt ready to tear out.

They don't start out that way - When they are new they are nice and tight (don't got there) but once you torque down on them good they stretch.

Unknown to most pure stainless is very soft for a socket screw application and it will stretch when torqued.

This may be of help. I have the latest/current Optilocks and they do not use these older metric allen screws which you guys hate. My latest Optilocks use Torx T10s for the ring caps and Torx T25s for the ring to base and mounting clamp screws. The T10 cap screws are spec'd for 15in-lbs and the T25 base and clamp screws are spec'd for 45in-lbs. The Torx heads on these base screws are the same as the T25 front and rear action screws which Sako is torquing into the receiver at a spec of 55 to 57in-lbs. That's 12in-lbs higher than needed for the Optilock mounting base screws. I've torqued, removed and retorqued the cap screws three different times, I've done this with the base clamp screws about a dozen times, and I've done this with the action screws about a half dozen times. So far, they are all in perfect shape without a mark or blemish. The torx bit bites hard and I cannot see how anyone could damage these screws without using a bad bit and/or torquing way, way over spec.

I'd think at some point you should be able to order these torx screws as replacements over the older metric allen screws which are disliked. Brownell's carries the Optilocks, so they may have the Optilock small parts. If they do and you can get Military, LEO, or Dealer pricing, replacements would be inexpensive.

Best

Good to know Gary. Guess they've adressed the issue although I've never had a problem with the allen heads.

A Torx T25 is normally spec'd to handle a max torque of around 140in-lb, with a T10 maxing out at around 30in-lb. Based on my latest Optilocks, I think a person need be ham fisted while grossly overtorquing the screws to cause damage. I'm using my T25s to remove and replace the scope and mounts to address the iron sights. I plan on retorquing these clamp screws scores of times and will let you guys know if I manage to wear them out. I've already retorqued the smaller T10 cap screws several times and they remain pristine, so I'd imagine they'd last a lifetime with proper care.

Best

I believe the allen wrench they supply with the kit is more the problem than the screws. Any more I use an industrial grade allen wrench like snap-on or proto , grind the face so there is a crisp perpendicular edge to the wench. Take a small ballpien and gently tap the wrench so it seats flat on the bottom of the screw then tighten. You have less chance of expanding the thin walled hex head when you seat the wrench tight to the bottom of the head.