Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Elk Hunting Wall tent stoves which and why?

Their web "www.fourdog.com" indicates that there is a lifetime warranty against firebox burnout. Don't know about other parts. Check them out He is very helpful and interesting to talk to.

I've built two tent stoves. Both are the same design. I used old galvanized water tanks.

I used plasma cutter to cut a door out, and to cut the hole for the stove pipe. To control the air flow, I used a uni-bit, and cut six 1" holes in the side near the bottom of the tank, Then I made a slide that opens and closes the holes to dampen the air flow.

I also mad a grate so that the air comes in from the underside of the wood.

It works very well. I have the prototype, and the 2nd model was given to a friend..

If you have access to some scrap material, and a few tools, you can make one of these on your own.... By the way, YES, I burned off the galvanizing so that I did not poison myself. I also painted the 2nd stove with high temp stove paint.

The stove I built several years ago is similar in appearance to the cylinder stove but has many features taken from the Four Dog stove the best being the baffle which makes a huge difference. I sized it to mirror my rolled 14x16 tent so that they can straddle a horse and balance. The baffle does make a defined hot spot to cook on and zero sparks exit the pipe. If I had to buy new I'd definitely go with one of the Four Dog models.

thanks for the the reply guys.

The sotz stove is a great idea however trying to find a sotz kit is nearly impossible nowdays !

I just went to four dogs website and watched the video. I have a couple of comments:

First, it has a raised collar on top of the stove. This would make it tougher to pack on a mule if you were so inclined to do. My first Cylinder stove had this feature, the more recent ones have an INTERNAL collar. As for the baffles, the cylinder stove has baffles too and, frankly, I don't see that they really do much.

I'm not sure the need for the fiberglass gasket on the stove door, seems that you need some airflow anyway and the gasket is just something to get damaged or wear out.

I also noticed that he installs the damper in the first pipe section. I think this is a mistake. I have set up a lot of stoves and found that it is best to put the damper at eye level. You can hold more heat in the pipe this way. I have tried it both ways and it makes a big difference.

I do like the legs on this stove better than the cylinder stove.

Looks like a well built stove, I just think there is a little fluff, smoke and mirrors going on here to make it seem better than everything else.

As for burning wood. I am lucky that we have so much good quality wood in Arizona. When I camped in the north, we had our choice of lodgepole or lodgepole!

It has been my experience that conifer wood does not make good stove wood. It tends to burn fast and soot up the stovepipes. I take a night or two worth of wood with me usually. The best being mesquite and walnut. Other good woods are oak, manzanita and ironwood.

When on long winter trips I will take a box of cabinet scraps with me (usually alder) this allows me to build one or two very hot fires to make bath water and heat the tent up to 80 degrees for bathing.

If I use pine or fir, I can't get the nesting stove sections back together without a heavy cleaning. If I don't put any paper in it, I don't need a mesh spark arrestor , otherwise, I do.

I tried the side-saddle water tank and it wasn't for me. Easier to fill and deal with a coffee pot on top.

[quote=saddlesoreI have two wood stoves, one is a Sims fold up, butI heat with a Blue Flame 30K BTU propane heater now in a 11 x 15 tent., ora 20 ft gooseneck stock trailer that is enlclosed ,but still drafty. On low at night, it keeps the tent warm enough and will drive you out if it's on high. [/quote]


what brand of blue flame heater is that?

what brand of blue flame heater is that?
[/quote]

It is actually marketed as a Blue Flame Heater. See Northerntool.com