Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Glass bed old Sav 110

Happy Independence Day to all my fellow members. I have question I hope to get some help on. I have an old Savage 110 in '06. I've caught a bug to tweak it, namely glass bed it. But everywhere I look talks about glassin the tang bolt...it has no tang bolt. This will be my first bedding job/attempt. I am leaning towards glassin out the lug back to the magazine well and forward to include about 1-2 inches of barrel channel.

Am I way off in my thinking here? Should I also bed the tang? Does the tang in a Savage need some clearance for the safety to operate correctly?

I just don't want to F it up and have to restart with a new stock, $$$. Thanks for the help/advice/info. Photos would be a huge help and confidence builder.

The "General" instructions that talk of bedding the tang bolt area do so to produce a solid well fitting area to support the clamping action of said tang bolt.
Since the Savage uses a bolt located in front of the trigger that takes the place of the tang bolt. You should bed the area around the front and rear bolts that actually clamp the stock and action together.
You can float or bed the tang, and the rest of the action for that matter. As long as there are no contact points that are putting excessive pressure on the action it doesn't much mater.

Savage is no different that any other rifle, in regards to bedding around the action screws. On a Savage, the rear action screw just happens to be in front of the trigger, rather than behind the trigger like with a M700.

You want bedding around both screws, and you don't want bedding around the rear tang portion because you don't want to "bridge" the rear action screw. Just put a couple layers of tape under the rear tang before you bed it, and you should be good to go.

I can get a pic tonight...

DC pics would be great. I get that you want to bed around the clamping points, ie. the action bolts/screws. But the rear bolt is sunken between the magazine well and the trigger. Not as clear or as obviously as I would like without seeing it first.

Also how deep do you need to around the screws? and recoil lug?

Thanks for the help.

Here is a pic of the rear tang area, note there is no bedding here:



Pic of the recoil lug, notice there is no bedding in front of the lug where the nut is.



View of rear action screw area. No bedding goes behind this screw. Easiest to just remove the trigger group and fill the edges with playdoh etc to make cleanup easier.

Someone needs to inform him of the barrel nut on a Savage. Clay works well. If he puts to muck in there and no clay then he can forget about getting that thing apart ever.

Easier to just wrap the nut in a couple layers of tape, and wax the tape...

Easier yet to castrate the SOB!

don't castrate it, those guys are just jealous our Savages are the only rifles with NUTS!

Definitely DO NOT bed the tang area of a Savage action. It will do lots of weird things to your accuracy. Just float the tang and you will be fine.

dogcatcher223 that is a nice looking bedding job and also a perfect example of how to bed a Savage. Is that Acragel?

Okay so I inletted the stock similar to dogcatcher's pics and description. But when I placed the barrel with the epoxy in the stock, I didn't have any excess squeeze out. I think I used too little epoxy. If I have gaps can I add more epoxy and re-set it or am I up 5h1t creek?

Live and learn I guess.

Clean off the release agent, roughen the epoxy that's there and slather more on.

No problem at all.

Dogcatcher223's pics are very well done. I especially notice he has "pillared" the rear screw with minimal clearance for the sear. This is the way to go, less sear clearance, more receiver support.

Guys, wish I could take credit. This particular rifle was bedded by SSS originally, then redone by Ray Montgomery later on when I had it rebarreled.