Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Bore cleaning solvent ???

I guess if you're certain whatever you're using isn't harmful to the firearm, have at it. I'm always receptive to new and improved, but only if it's new and improved.

Crashbox: Please do yourself a favor and not only don't breath the product but also don't get it on your skin. MEK is BAD stuff. When you mix all of the ingredients together, there is no telling what you are in for. Be safe.

You are right about MEK being bad stuff. At a place where I worked in the '70's, we used a lot of MEK. Once, there was an accident and several ounces of it got sprayed into my eyes. It was rather unpleasant and required a trip to the emergency room.

Thanks for the warning. As I mentioned, I am aware of what I am handling, and yes, MEK and toluene are two real nasties to be around.

Those who are in the coatings industry thoroughly know it.

Cyclohexanone also has a moderate degree of toxicity.

I suppose I could use straight lacquer thinner and possibly achieve similar results; take a look at the ingredients of that stuff some day-

Ed's Red has been around for a long time, and is itself a modification of a formula from Frankford Arsenal mentioned in Hatcher's Notebook. I just wanted to see if I could improve on it, nothing more. I do have a fair number of chemicals on hand, probably a great deal more than the average citizen.

No, it won't hurt anything.

Firing 30-50 rounds between cleaning is alright, but my rifles have gone from 30-50 before DBC, to at least double that, and most of them maintain accuracy for hundreds of rounds after DBC.

My experience with DBC is the same as Jordan's. It won't affect accuracy, except for prolonging it between cleanings.
It at LEAST doubles the number of shots from any rifle before accuracy deteriorates, and more often extends the number 3-4 times, and sometimes even more. And then, when you do clean the bore, it takes noticeably less time, solvent and patches.

This has been an interesting thread.

Most of the focus seems to be on removing copper along with carbon in rifle barrels.

Which of the current generation of solvents works best for a combo of lead and copper residue? I get that when shooting plated bullets out of a .357 Magnum rifle, and I'll bet handgun shooters deal with it too.

On a related note, it looks to me lke M-Pro7 creates surface rust if you leave it in the barrel for more than a few minutes.

Paul

Is this from first hand experience or do you have a source? And was it the M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner or Copper Remover that is supposed to cause surface rust? I ask because it's one I was thinking of trying in the no too distant future (I'm almost out of solvent).

My own first hand experience with the M-Pro7 gun cleaner, but limited to a couple of observations. Point being, I'd have to do some careful testing before reaching my own conclusions, so I wanted to learn from others' experience. My most recent experience was running a couple of patches with M-Pro7 through the bore at the range, then cleaning at home after 20-30 minutes.

For now, I'm reluctant to leave it in very long, although it does have a good reputation as a solvent.

Paul

Bore Tech Eliminator and Cu++ remover is the go .
Get your self some nickel plated jags and nylon brushes with a nickel core and you are good to go.
fast too!!!!

Gus

Good info, I'll look for some Wipeout.

P

The accelerant to Wipe-Out will do a "sweets" to your bore if you leave in in for any length of time.
One way to avoid a bad outcome is to mix accelerant and patch out on the same patch.Its faster than just patch out, and doesnt leave any nasty surprises.
I use the wipe out, patch out stuff all the time.
I always finish up with carb out from auto zone and then Kroil.Then dry patch.
Carb out will find stuff the others wont....


dave