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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,970
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,970 |
use some moeling clay or plumbers putty to fill in any of the spots that look like they could cause a mechanical lock then apply your release agent.
Ed
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 16,554
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 16,554 |
There are two common "PVA"s. PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) is the stuff in Brownell's blue paint on release agent. It's water soluble and leaves a soft, thin vinyl-like film that comes off easily particularly if encouraged with a little denatured alcohol. One of its common applications is as a mold release for epoxy. PVA (polyvinyl acetate) is the basis of common glues like Elmer's white glue. Don't think I'd want that. The spray on stuff Brownell's sells would be a whole lot more convenient.
The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh
Which explains a lot.
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,403
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,403 |
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
As Bob Hagel would say"You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong."Good words of wisdom...............
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 21,317 |
I worked with a buddy who was a master with fiberglass, and if you think getting a barreled action stuck is something, it's nothing compared to sticking a car body or 30' boat in a mold.
What he taught me was to put on a couple coats of paste wax, buffing it between coats, and then spraying on a thin coat of PVA (poly vinyl acetate)
Honestly I don't think what you use is so imporant with a barreled action compared to making sure you use something and get it on all surfaces that will be exposed to the bedding compound, and making sure you don't have mechanical problems with zero or negative draft. Where does one go to find Polyvinylacetate? Sounds like an interesting idea to try. Any good fiberglass supply place should carry it, my favorite supplier as we don't have a local one with good prices is Fiberglass Supply, here's the link to their release products page. Look at the partall, that's PVA (and I guess I got the A part wrong) http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Release_Agents/release_agents.html
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,734
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,734 |
I have found the Brownell's blue stuff to dry in a layer that is too thick, thus not producing as good of action to stock fit when removed. I prefer One Shot and feel I get a better finished product. I gunsmith I know gets a wonderful finish with the release agent he uses, but will not tell me what it is. Only that it is a "proprietary mold release agent".
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,313
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,313 |
I use Certified Labs T-Lube plus. 80% Teflon spray. It dries with a thin white coating. Cleans off easily with bore solvent and its thin white color makes it easy to see any missed spots. Superior dry lubricant as well. I have used Brownell's products before and I like this T-Lube Plus better.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 59,140
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 59,140 |
We haven't all been there. I use Johnson's Paste Wax, have done from day one. Never seen a need to change. Never stuck an action. That said, any wax, paste or liquid should work fine. The old canned shoe polish would work. If it will dry, or film over, I wouldn't have any problem using it. Certainly the Brownell's spray on release agent will work. If it didn't, they wouldn't sell it. The key is covering everything with the stuff. Even places you don't expect the epoxy to go. What he said - to a T... When it comes to removing the action I use a rubber mallet and give a few gentle-to-medium taps under the barrel while holding the fore-arm.. I do this about one inch over a terrycloth towel in case it comes out rapidly.. Usually I'll see it begin to move and then a bit of wiggling gets it out.. I use a headless action screw to keep bedding out of the receiver and it's important (obviously) to remove that before attempting to remove the action. If you're doing it that way, ensure you wax the screw too - all the way down...
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69
Pro-Constitution.
LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,150
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,150 |
If you use clay filler the Brownells spray has the advantage of allowing you to apply the agent without distorting your clay dams.
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 505
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 505 |
use some moeling clay or plumbers putty to fill in any of the spots that look like they could cause a mechanical lock then apply your release agent.
Ed +1 Using clay on the front side of the recoil lug seems to make removal lots easier.
Failure's always an option
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 32,070
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 32,070 |
I hate clay. Nasty stuff to clean out. I use beeswax. If you are having a problem with Brownell's release agent (2 coats) being "too thick" (WHAT????) you are obviously doing something wrong. Or your perception of proper clearance is warped, IMO.
I've used most of the products mentioned - even Crisco. They all work, but I keep coming back to Brownell's blue stuff...
The only true cost of having a dog is its death.
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