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First off, if you're using a chicken choker grip, you should consider using thumb over bore. It's a vastly superior technique.

Regardless, TLR-1 is hard to beat for value, X300 if you want the best. Offset adapter of your choice.

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I use a Surefire 600C Scout Light on my rifle. I tried an X300, which I use on my pistol, but the Scout has more throw, and the switch design is better, for me, on a rifle.

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Originally Posted by JustOneGunner
First off, if you're using a chicken choker grip, you should consider using thumb over bore. It's a vastly superior technique.

Regardless, TLR-1 is hard to beat for value, X300 if you want the best. Offset adapter of your choice.

JustOneGunner, not really sure what "chicken choker grip" is. As for using my thumb over the bore, I've never tried that. I went from having the regular carbine hand guard to a drop-in quad rail with a Troy aluminum front grip mounted about halfway down the rail. I like this setup. My next setup will be a little lighter. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with a TLR-1 light. I might get one for my Glock G22 too. Going to figure it out after the holidays.

NYH1.


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Gripping with your thumb under the barrel/around your foregrip, I mean; I inferred that from how you described using your thumb to actuate a 3 o' clock light.

Short version: Having the weight of the forend on top of your hand is worse than having it in your hand for a fighting rifle. Skeletal support is great for standing comps, but for multiple targets and recoil mitigation, thumb over bore (or alternatively, running your thumb parallel but still above the boreline) is faster and better for transitioning and keeping impulse to a minimum. Rhodesians used it to great effect with FALs.

Before you dismiss it as a mallninja newfangled gimmick, give it a shot. laugh

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While discussing the chicken choker you might also try the reverse chicken choker...

Palm on top of the forend with the thumb up (Basicly make the letter C with your left hand). For CQB and entries it gave me maximum control over the gun and is extremely solid if using a full auto application. Instead of the muzzle trying to rise up against just the force of your thumb its trying to rise up through your entire hand.

By mounting a TLR at the 6 oclock you can activate the rocker switch with your thumb regardless of how you position your hand and your not locking yourself into a single technique that is limited due to the position of your light.


Hunt hard, kill clean, waste nothing and offer no apologies.

"In rifle work, group size is of some interest...but it is well to remember that a rifleman does not shoot groups, he shoots shots." Jeff Cooper

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http://haleystrategic.com/store/inforce_wml_hsp.php



� 200 Lumen Output
� 90 Minute Run Time
� Momentary On Only Activation Switch
� Ultra strong jet black polymer body
� Weight with Batteries 3oz

Can also get 120 lumen versions with strobe, constant on, IR, etc.

3oz is super lightweight.

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12 o' clock is ideal if your handguard/front sight allow. Least intrusive shadow, ambidextrous.

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Justonegunner is right about your grip. Look into a training class.

As for light position, I happen to prefer 11 o'clock in a Vikings Tactical mount. G2X. No switch tape.

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Originally Posted by pira114
Justonegunner is right about your grip. Look into a training class.

As for light position, I happen to prefer 11 o'clock in a Vikings Tactical mount. G2X. No switch tape.


I am interested in the Thorntail mount in the same position, since I'm running a carbine-length gas system/barrel.

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Yep I agree and although I use 11:00 with the same mount, 12:00 is better but I get by. 6:00 3:00 or 9:00 gets in the way, 11:00 is just out of the way but not ambidextrous.

See JOG, we agree on a few things.

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Been looking for one as well and the prices for an weapon light are absurd.

Sooooo. Today I picked up an Vikings Tactical polymer weapon mount and then went to Wal Mart and picked me up an Maglite LED XL50 light with 130 lumen. Fits perfectly after I removed the insert on the mount.

One hit for high. Two for dim. Three for strobe. Runs on 3 AAA batteries and I much prefer that over CR123's.

Will it hold up and work? Don't know. But this light is under $30, uses common batteries and isn't uber spendy. If it holds up I'll be happy because it isn't over bright and doesn't give me backwash reflection too badly.

This is my econo answer im going to try.

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You could've got a Fenix E21 for not much more. Electronics aren't something to skimp on.

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I'll have to try gripping my carbines as you guys explained it. If I do, there really isn't any need to use the front hand grip on them.

NYH1.


Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!

ROLLTIDE

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new yorkistan SUCKS!






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Originally Posted by NYH1
I'll have to try gripping my carbines as you guys explained it. If I do, there really isn't any need to use the front hand grip on them.

NYH1.


The front grip makes it so you have the same exact hand position every time. Consistency equals accuracy.

Though, now with Magpul having a cheap handstop kit, I'd opt for that before a VFG. Either works, though.

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Originally Posted by JustOneGunner
12 o' clock is ideal if your handguard/front sight allow. Least intrusive shadow, ambidextrous.


Yes, on a Troy/Samson rail in front of a BUIS

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Originally Posted by JustOneGunner
Originally Posted by NYH1
I'll have to try gripping my carbines as you guys explained it. If I do, there really isn't any need to use the front hand grip on them.

NYH1.


The front grip makes it so you have the same exact hand position every time. Consistency equals accuracy.

Though, now with Magpul having a cheap handstop kit, I'd opt for that before a VFG. Either works, though.

I have a THIS Troy Modular Combat Grip on my current AR15. I planned on putting it on my new Colt AR15 that should be here any day. I like it and I'm use to it now. It's not something I have to have, rather it's something I like to have. I don't have it on my AR for the "tacticool factor". I got a really good deal on it so I tried it. After using it I like it.

If I stick with the Troy VFG, I think I'm going to mount my light on the left side of my carbine around the 9 o'clock position instead of mounting it on the right side around the 3 o'clock position. I think I'll be able to operate the light easier with it on the left side. It's easier to move my thumb around the left side while gripping the VFG with my other fingers. I don't seem to have anywhere near the movement when I try to move my thumb around the right side.

Thanks, NYH1.


Take nothing I say personal, remember....it's just the interweb!

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YANKEE'S

new yorkistan SUCKS!






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