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Originally Posted by BCJR
Sad to see.Come on Remington get it together! Hooper ordinance does a knob reinforce worth looking into....not that we should have to!


Maybe Remington will send my M700 back with three screws added, just to be sure!

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They should!

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Originally Posted by WyoM70


That rifle is now back at Remington, and I am waiting with great interest to see what they choose to do.


Yours certainly looks improperly prepared/installed prior to brazing...lots of gap it looks like, and that silver 'solder' is supposed to be able to pull right in by capillary action when the heat is right if the fit is good.

FWIW, ten or so years ago, I paid to send my M700 stainless Mountain rifle, at Rem's instructions, to the warranty service center in Fairbanks. They looked at it and decided it needed to be review by the factory. I paid for that trip also. After the factory returned it at their cost to the warranty center, I again had to pay ransom to have it delivered back to me. I'm glad I have had better warranty dealings with Ruger, RCBS, Hornady, Weaver, Leupold, and Burris. Otherwise, I'm not sure that I would have realized how crappy Remington's is. Well, at least they're consistent. I had the same "excellent" service from them 34 years ago as well. I'm glad gunsmiths generally like to work on them.

All that aside, when you get a good one, they're good rifles, whether it's a M700, Model Seven, M78, or whatever. I've shot and used plenty of good Remingtons. I'm just not much proud of the company and think they could quite readily improve, and probably save money doing it.


Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
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Really???? Klik, you have had warranty issues with all those brands you listed? Seriously? That's hard to believe.

Never had a feed problem in any of my dozen 700's.. I have a couple of Guide buddies that claim to have seen 3 failures in Remingtons in maybe 100 rounds "Shot" in the field.. BS! Operator error is more likely.

My guide rifle is a 700 .375H&H push feed... Has never failed once.. EVER!, since it was born as a .300 Win mag in 1972. It was my Dads' before it was mine. Multi-thousands of rounds later...

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Was thinking about taking my "non" push fed .416 Rigby to Unimak this Spring... What do you guys think? Lol

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Originally Posted by Klikitarik
Originally Posted by WyoM70


That rifle is now back at Remington, and I am waiting with great interest to see what they choose to do.


Yours certainly looks improperly prepared/installed prior to brazing...lots of gap it looks like, and that silver 'solder' is supposed to be able to pull right in by capillary action when the heat is right if the fit is good.

FWIW, ten or so years ago, I paid to send my M700 stainless Mountain rifle, at Rem's instructions, to the warranty service center in Fairbanks. They looked at it and decided it needed to be review by the factory. I paid for that trip also. After the factory returned it at their cost to the warranty center, I again had to pay ransom to have it delivered back to me. I'm glad I have had better warranty dealings with Ruger, RCBS, Hornady, Weaver, Leupold, and Burris. Otherwise, I'm not sure that I would have realized how crappy Remington's is. Well, at least they're consistent. I had the same "excellent" service from them 34 years ago as well. I'm glad gunsmiths generally like to work on them.

All that aside, when you get a good one, whether it's a M700, Model Seven, M78, or whatever. I shot and used plenty of good Remingtons. I'm just not much proud of the company and think they could quite readily improve, and probably save money doing it.


Also FWIW, Remington readily agreed to pay the freight to get my rifle back to them. I didn't even have to ask. The customer rep said he had heard of bolt handles coming off, but never one like this. I guess that might have made a difference as he apologized very much for the problem.

Do any of you have any ideas about how the rifling only starts at the proper place on one side of the barrel and not the other? Looking with a borescope, I am not sure how much difference there is, but on one side the rifling is not at all visible until I move the borescope another fraction of an inch down the barrel.

What could make this happen?

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Originally Posted by Kodiman
Really???? Klik, you have had warranty issues with all those brands you listed? Seriously? That's hard to believe.



Let's just say that the brands I listed have all given me great warranty service, mostly when I asked them to send me the bill when I felt fully responsible. How can you fault a company, the Weaver example, when you drop a rifle from a snowmachine going 30-40 mph and both ends get bent to where the scope is off by two feet at 50 feet? I asked for a functional repair, not cosmetic perfection, and the bill. They sent a brand new scope with an N/C invoice. That has been typical of the other brands as well.

Heck, a stainless antennae mount I had on my skiff broke years ago. I called Shakespeare or wrote them and explained what happened and how, (a strong skiff can really beat the poop out of stuff in the coastal environment.) I just needed a replacement part which I figured they might replace or bill me for. I was okay with it either way. They sent a whole new unit, the heavy duty version which was considerably more expensive than the standard unit I bought in the first place.

My M700 "bolt handle falling off" experience, not the first I've seen, but own own personal experience, happened when I was heading out the door, had just loaded the magazine, and dropped the bolt on an empty chamber with the trigger pulled. I know that there is an element of snap-down when you do that, but never enough to stress a properly brazed connection. When they do it properly, it's fine. A fellow should not have to pay for their mistakes; because of where I live, by following their instructions for warranty service, I paid three times. Kind of hard to be impressed by that kind of service.


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Originally Posted by Kodiman
Was thinking about taking my "non" push fed .416 Rigby to Unimak this Spring... What do you guys think? Lol


Just small bears over there, anyhow. grin You get a permit?

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Permits come 20 to a box...haha

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Originally Posted by BCJR
Interested to see if anyone here is using or has used a push feed action to hunt brown bears.I know a few who do and a few who refuse to. Ive got a 700 in 375 H&H with a sako extractor that i feel comfortable with. Anyone else?


Got this one with a push feed, Rem 700 XCR II in 375 Weatherby ...

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Regards,

Chuck

"There's a saying in prize fighting, everyone's got a plan until they get hit"

Ghost And The Darkness

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nice bear . guess he will never know a push feed did him in!

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Can somebody explain to me the concern over a push feed instead of a controlled feed? What is the prevailing wisdom of concern, that push feeds do what?







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It's mainly a mental exercise, both work fine when they are kept clean and your ammo is in good shape. If my pre-64s turned into push-feeds in 12 days it wouldn't make a rats ass difference to me and I guide & hunt brown bears every year.


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It probably makes no difference, although I have heard stories of people under stress jamming a push-feed rifle. The last time I heard of such a case was about eight years ago, and this is what I remember: a client shot and injured a bear, and the guide had to track it. He was carrying a .416 (push-feed), and the bear charged him. During the struggle he jammed his rifle. If I well remember he managed to kill the bear, but the bear chewed him some.

Maybe somebody here will remember who this guide was (?)

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I don't remember his name, but his friends call him Lucky.


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Originally Posted by waterrat
It's mainly a mental exercise, both work fine when they are kept clean and your ammo is in good shape. If my pre-64s turned into push-feeds in 12 days it wouldn't make a rats ass difference to me and I guide & hunt brown bears every year.

That sums it up for me. I started this thread because the PF vs CRF thing is one of those "gun talk" topics that I have heard all my life. And figured a Brown/Griz hunt would be about the best test of peoples opinion. Ford Dodge Chevy. Like I said in the op I would not hesitate to take a pf on a bear hunt or to Africa , my 700's feed sideways , upside down and so do my crf's. Been cool to hear everyone's input.

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A few years ago Craig Boddington said that the only jam he had ever had was with a CRF rifle, and it was so bad that it took a while to "fix."
I've never found my push feeds to cause a problem, then again I take care of my weapons and my handloads are never pushing the envelope.

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Originally Posted by Barkoff
Can somebody explain to me the concern over a push feed instead of a controlled feed? What is the prevailing wisdom of concern, that push feeds do what?


Barkoff the mechanics go like this:

In a properly designed CRF, the cartridge is matched to the length of the magazine box,feed rails are set up for that cartridge,extraction is handled by a large,non rotating claw extractor.But there are subtle nuances to the system that work in sync with one anither, In a proper CRF system(Mauser 98) everything is there for a purpose and works in sync with everything else.

Feeding is accomplished as the bolt moves forward and the bolt face picks up the rim of the case and strips it forward.At the instant the cartridge pops up from the rails it slides under the claw extractor,which grabs or "controls it" on the balance of its trip into the chamber,the firing of the cartridge,and its trip out of the chamber as the bolt is turned up and drawn to the rear.These extractors generally grab a large chunk of the rimof the case,making it harder to "pull though" a soft brass rim.In a mauser 98 design,thereis a machined reces around the bolt behind the bolt head into which fits another claw on the extractor which supports the extractor's grip on the case, so that the harder you yank on the bolt, the tighter the grip on the case...helpful with a stuck or dirty case,and prevents the extractor from jumping the rim of the case and leaving a fired case into the chamber.

Extraction is accomplished by two functions in a proper design;the first is as you lift the bolt handle and the camming action draws the cartridge slightly to the rear,freeing its grips on the chamber walls(in a properly designed cartridge that is tapered.An improved case with parallel sides(AI)does not do this as well as a tapered case.)Again, helpful in extracing a dirty or stuck case. As the bolt is moved forcefully to the rear,the extractor holds the case until it encounters the standing ejector which slides into a slot in the bolt face(perfectly "timed") and kicks the fired case out the loading port.

It is important to note here,that in a proper CRF,the bolt cannot pick up the next cartridge until the one on the bolt face is kicked out the port(or it shouldn't and if it does, it is not a properly made CRF action).

In a PF action,the cartridge is loose once it clears the rails in feeding and does not get grabbed by the extractor until the cartridge is fully,or almost,chambered,when the extractor jumps over the rim and grabs it.

This is in part what distinguishes one system over the other....if in operating the PF, you short stroke the bolt for any reason(panic in wartime,a buff bearing down or plain old buck fever,or a cartridge reluctant to chamber)and withdraw the bolt, the cartridge is now sitting in the rails and loading port.If you pull the bolt back far enough,and then move it forward again, the bolt will pick up another cartridge and the result is two cartridges in the port and the rifle will jam.(In a properly built CRF,this should not happen provided the cartridge length is sync'd to the magazine box...if you chamber(say) a 7x57 in a 30/06 length actionso that the cartdige is not in sync with the nag box length,all bets could be off....it will likely work but you could double feed potentially with that set up).

Ejection with the PF is controlled by a plunger in the bolt face actuated by a small spring that exerts pressure on the cartridge as it is withdrawn from the chamber and kicks it out the loading port once the mouth of the case clears the receiver.

Extraction with the PF is accomplished(Rem700) with a small spring in the bolt face that jumps over the rim of the case as the bolt is turned down into battery;ditto a M70 PF where a small spring loaded extractor slides over the rim when the round is chambered.These are both small,don't grab as large a hunk of the rim as the more massive extractor of the Mauser 98 design.other designs use a different extractor,like the Sako,M16 type, etc.

Mighta left something out....my brain is fogged smile







The 280 Remington is overbore.

The 7 Rem Mag is over bore.
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Bob,

I ran the "charging Cape buffalo" station on a practical hunting course for three years. The first year it was rapid shooting at stationary targets at different distances, but the last two years we had the target "charging" from behind a bush almost directly at the shooter--who had 6-7 seconds to get off as many shots as possible. Most people got off two, but a few very quick shots could get off three, and the best shots got off three in the "vitals." I saw just as many people jam controlled-feed rifles as push-feed rifles, usually by not bringing the bolt back far enough to eject the empty (short stroking).

According to shooting lore, this isn't possible, but after looking at the jams and doing a little thinking, I concluded the CRF jams could occur for two reasons:

1) The next round down in the magazine can still slide forward with the short-stroked bolt, either due to friction from the empty case, or:

2) The very bottom of the bolt face pushes the empty forward. This is rarer, but can happen in some CRF actions if the bolt is drawn just far enough back for the bolt face to end up behind the case head, but not far enough for the case head to hit the ejector.

On the other hand, empties from push-feed cases are ejected the instant the case mouth clears the front receiver ring. Thus the bolt doesn't have to travel as far back as in a CRF action for the fired case to eject.

The biggie in operating a bolt action is not whether it's PF or CRF, but bringing the bolt all the way back until it stops. People who operate a bolt by grabbing the knob sometimes don't bring it back all the way, especially when trying to hurry.

There are several ways to run a bolt, but the way I do it is the palm method. Instead of grabbing the bolt knob, I pull it back with my fingers cupped, palm up. When the bolt stops I reverse my hand and push the bolt forward, palm still open, with my thumb. It's impossible to short-stroke a bolt when using the technique, and it's also usually faster for most people, since instead of 4 motions (lift bolt knob, pull bolt back, drop bolt knob, push bolt forward) it's basically just a back-and-forth, 2-stroke motion.

I am not the world's fastest with a bolt rifle, but I shot the charging buffalo target as fast as anybody else did, even shooters who were using lever-actions. Sometimes that speed has come in handy in the field, including when I shot my only grizzly--with a push-feed rifle.


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I have many discusions with D Lazer, master Alaskan guide. He has been involved in over 300 brown/grizzly kills. The most jams have come from M70 winchesers and mausers. Remingtons and the tang safety Ruger M77's have been the most reliable. His back up rifle is a tang safety M77 30-06 loaded with 220 gr factory.

Lefty C

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