Alright, I have a picture of the target but can't find a way to post it here. Anyways, I went to the range today and I decided to pull out the 30-06 again. Same load, H3031 with 180 grain speer bullets. I decided to try and get the best group possible using only one sandbag at 100 yards, which is similar to how I would shoot while hunting. Ended up shooting a .8 inch group, subtract the bullet diameter and I shot a half inch group. I am absolutely shocked by this. This is an old rifle with quite a bit of marks on it, shooting loads that barely fit the chamber topped with a blurry little Tasco 3x9. To think, if you were to improve the load, get a better scope, and free float the barrel I bet that rifle could shoot .5 inch groups easily. The question is, why? Does anybody have an idea as to why this thing is so accurate. Compared to my .308 that I can barely shoot 2 inch groups this is pretty good.
By the way, if I can bring myself to get an Ackley I might end up getting a .280 AI, if not 6.5x 284 for sure.
In my experience, unless there is a mechanical issue, or an ammo incompatibility issue, most rifles will shoot sub-moa.
If my scoped rifles shoot greater than sub-moa, or my iron sighted rifles shoot greater than 2moa, I investigate; I'd be more concerned about the "why" with the 308.
If I'm wrong, I'll admit it. If I don't reply further, I'm satisfied with my side of the "debate." ...nuff said.
A real good friend of mine that mentored me in rifle shooting many years ago always had a saying when ever I would shoot real good group at long distance:" The wind can just as easily blow the bullets into a tight group as it can blow them out of tight group"
Then you will know the truth and the truth will set you free. John 8:32
A lie doesn't become truth; wrong doesn't become right; evil doesn't become good, just because it's accepted by the majority...Rick Warren
I would use Varget or something along those lines, but I wasn't there when my grandpa reloaded them and he's kinda set on that powder. He thinks of that powder like some people think a .270 is the best and flattest shooting round. But I honestly don't know if I should improve the load or not considering how well it worked.
Have you fully prepped the brass? 1. Uniform Primer pockets 2. De-burr flash holes 3. Neck turn and inside neck ream to no more than .003" neck thickness 4. Trim all brass exactly after using chamber length gauge 5. Chamfer with VLD tool 6. Anneal 7. Use redding FL bushing die for .001" neck tension 8. Stoney Pointe tool to determine OAL. Ruger's like no more than .01263" of jump! 9. Polish with stainless steel media with cat litter buffer 10. Use only Winchester 209 shotshell primers. Don't ask me why, I just know. If you can't get them to seat, refer to "Handloading for Dummies" manual 11. Use mica dry lube after you polish the inside of the necks with fine steel wool Then seat bullets. Use only Winchester bulk bullets. Awesome! Seat bullets pointy end first. Micrometer SEATER die will help 12. I forgot. Lyman dippers for charging cases. Level off with pocket knife 13. Check concentricity of each loaded round. If more than .0002" exists, use collet bullet puller and disassemble rounds and start over. Try to diagnose where you went wrong.
If really master this process, your gun should shoot around .9" groups
Oh, I just read that it is already shooting .8" now.
NEVERMIND!
Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
Have you fully prepped the brass? 1. Uniform Primer pockets 2. De-burr flash holes 3. Neck turn and inside neck ream to no more than .003" neck thickness 4. Trim all brass exactly after using chamber length gauge 5. Chamfer with VLD tool 6. Anneal 7. Use redding FL bushing die for .001" neck tension 8. Stoney Pointe tool to determine OAL. Ruger's like no more than .01263" of jump! 9. Polish with stainless steel media with cat litter buffer 10. Use only Winchester 209 shotshell primers. Don't ask me why, I just know. If you can't get them to seat, refer to "Handloading for Dummies" manual 11. Use mica dry lube after you polish the inside of the necks with fine steel wool Then seat bullets. Use only Winchester bulk bullets. Awesome! Seat bullets pointy end first. Micrometer SEATER die will help 12. I forgot. Lyman dippers for charging cases. Level off with pocket knife 13. Check concentricity of each loaded round. If more than .0002" exists, use collet bullet puller and disassemble rounds and start over. Try to diagnose where you went wrong.
If really master this process, your gun should shoot around .9" groups
Oh, I just read that it is already shooting .8" now.
NEVERMIND!
You guys crack me up- everyone knows that you can't seat bullet pointy side down with .01263" of jump! The ogive won't have sufficient neck tension to be concentric to the bore. You're going to have this poor kid so confused about reloading, shooting, etc.... he'll be afraid to drop his pants to crap in the woods without checking in with the forum first.....
Bob
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability.
I would personally consider running the 110 TNT for it's superior wind bucking capabilities compared to the 180s you're shooting currently. They rock out to 1500 for me out of my 30 Remington AR.
I would personally consider running the 110 TNT for it's superior wind bucking capabilities compared to the 180s you're shooting currently. They rock out to 1500 for me out of my 30 Remington AR.
This mirrors my experience.
Tanner not only rolls, he rocks!
Originally Posted by Bristoe
The people wringing their hands over Trump's rhetoric don't know what time it is in America.
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