I assume one would need a mould, handles for the mould, lead, and a small cast iron pot with a dipper as a minimum kit?

I would like to cast some .358" bullets for the .38 special.

I am thinking 158 grain flat points... like these...



I know you need lube as well, but i have no idea about what is needed for that.

Can anyone elaborate any points i have missed?

handles will come with a 2C from lee so no extra expense. (if you get the 6C mould you will need to get some Lee 6C handles as they do NOT come with the 6C mould.)

Yes you have the very basics covered, I would include some good heavy duty gloves, and some eye protection.

as far as lubing.

Get a Lee push through sizer and "ee gads" dare I suggest it.

Get some Lee Alox to tumble lube them with. Should work well if not pushing them hard in the 38spcl.

I recommend the .359 sizer die.

Thanks blammer, i am considering getting into this on a small scale just to make shooting my .38 a more common thing. I love the gun (Smith 19-4) but i dont ever seem to have money for bullets to buy, so i would like to cast some.

I have a book here somewhere that tells the basics of casting, so i will have to read it.

If you dont mind my asking, why .359"? Isnt the groove diameter .357"?

Please dont take this as an attempt at questioning your knowledge, just my ignorance of the casting game.

no, no problem at all.

Your 38 is actually .357 dia as you have stated.

With cast bullets it is generally favorable to have your projectile sized .001 or .002 LARGER than bore dia. This is an aid to help reduce leading in the barrel. The general wisdom is to use as large a bullet as will fit in the chamber. (before ordering a sizer, you may want to 'slug' your chambers in your revolver, all of them.)This is easy done. If you already have a projectile (not a round of ammo), measure it and see if it will 'slip' through the chamber on each one of the cylinder. If it does, get a bigger one, by about .001 and try it again. Use the biggest bullet that will 'just' fit through with a hand pushed rod.

Two main factors work in creating a leaded barrel and poor accuracy.

Bullets too small for barrel and poor lube.

More importantly is the throat of each chamber in the cylinder. If you throat is .356 and the barrel is .357 you will generally have a leaded barrel. The projectile will be 'sized' down too small for the barrel and most likely creat leading.
Ideally you should have a .358 chamber and a .357 barrel.

hope this helps.

Check out this link for casting info, it is available in a PDF format if your interested in printing it out.

From Ingot to target

I just went through this before Christmas. What I got to start:

- Hot plate from a local HW store $16
- Stainless steel saucer from Walmart $9
- Small stainless ladle from Walmart $4
- 2 bullet mold made by Lee + alox lube from Natchez

I had 5 pounds of lead in my scrap pile, I used that to cast bullets. It is not difficult at all, I bent the ladle to fit my needs and it works well. I cast 200 grain bullets for my 44 Magnum revolver. Even with the twin mold I can cast enough bullets in few hours to last me a month of shooting, money well spent in my book.

Money was tight, otherwise I would buy the 6 mold.

Czech, could you post a picture of your setup? I would like to see that.

Claybirds, thanks, i will have to read it a bit later, i gotta go to work right now.

You need a means to control the temperature, so either add in a thermoter, or forgoe the cast iron pot and dipper and get a lee bottom pour furnace.

The lee 6 cavity molds are a better design than the 2 cavity molds, but it takes some experience to cast a proper cadence to get good bullets from the 6 cavity molds and not get frustrated with the sprue hardening up and breaking the sprue cutting handle.

Hence start with the 2 cavity lee mold. I know lots of people like to bash lee molds, but I've yet to get a bad one. In 35 cal I've used the 105 swc, 158 rf and 158 swc, all have been very accurate. The 105 is my current favorite for very mild recoil, good accuracy, and getting as many bullets as possible out of a pound of lead. I'd still like to try the 125 rf but have had a tough time finding someone that has the 6 cavity varient in stock.

Lee has redesigned the 2C mould to work like the 6C mould, as far as pin lockup on the block halves.

Many have started with a cast iron pot and dipper, you'll figure out how to keep the lead at a steady temp soon enough.

They did it long before temp probes and Lee pots, and usually on an open camp fire to boot.