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Follow Mule Deers advice.....keep a look out for an FN Mauser imported in bunches in the '50s . Look for best buys J C Higgins or Husqvarna....more expensive would be complete FN rifles, or Sako import or even early Weatherby rifles built on FN actions.
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Campfire Ranger
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I just sold one for a friend he for $425 that would be PERFECT!
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Thanks for the info and suggestions so far. The info on the bevel is exactly why I posted the question! I don't know much about Mauser designs and this is something I never heard about.
Add the bevel to the list of features I want. Along with the gas baffles, although I don't know where they are located and why Winchester and Ruger omitted them! I want a true Mauser "action", and am not concerned with the stepped barrel.
I guess I should have asked, "What makes a Mauser so special, or super reliable and safe?" What is a true Mauser? I don't know, that's why I'm posting here! What I understand is that Paul Mauser took extra design precautions to protect the soliders. It seems that these features are desirable in a hunting rifle too, at least in theory.
I have looked at Zastavas for the past couple years but always pass on them since the safety doesn't lock the bolt. I think I read about people getting 3-position safeties from Gentry or some other gunsmith to make the safety lock the bolt.
I'd love to get a new rifle from the current Mauser plant, but I don't think this would fit the "low cost" objective.
An old 8x57 is something I never thought about! Thanks for the idea, I'll have to look into this.
Thanks guys. Feel free to add more if you're inclined, I appreciate your opinions on these rifles.
Jason
Last edited by 4th_point; 02/20/13.
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Jason, I have a Western Field M720B in .30-'06: this is a true commercial Mauser built by EF Heym under contract in the early 60s. ![[Linked Image]](http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c270/HunterJim/Heym98.jpg) Here is a paragraph from an article I wrote for the Standard Catalog of Firearms on what makes a Mauser. "What makes a Rifle a Mauser?: There are three features that together characterize the M98 Mauser: magazine box, extractor and breeching. The most important feature is the cartridge specific magazine box. The magazine box and the follower are both important; the magazine box itself is sized to stagger stack the particular cartridge (such as the 7X57 or 9.3X62); the followers are also designed for a non-critical fit within the box. Second, the spring steel external extractor and bolt face allows for both controlled feed and extraction. Third, the bolt nose has dual opposing lugs bolting in the front receiver ring, and also features an internal �C-ring� of steel integral to the front ring. Military Mauser M98 actions have a thumb-cut in the left receiver wall to assist in loading cartridges from a stripper-clip, and the rear receiver ring is slotted to hold the clip. Commercial actions do without both of these." jim
LCDR Jim Dodd, USN (Ret.)
"If you're too busy to hunt, you're too busy."
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Campfire Outfitter
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"One that I really like is the JC Higgins Belgian-made Mausers. These seem like great rifles for the money. I'd rather get one of these than a sporterized/bubba-ized Mauser, but maybe I am just uncomfortable about these since I don't know much about them. It can be overwhelming with all the variations, dates of manufacture, etc."
I have five rifles based on the J.C. Higgins M50 FN Mausers. The only change I would make on the action is replace the trigger with a Timney. Four are still in 30-06 and are just waiting the funds to be rebarreled in something else. One is now a 7x57 and is very accurate.
Higgins mausers as you know were made by FN, barrels were chrome lined and made by High Standard for Sears. I think the stocks came from either Fajen or Bishop but never did find out which. I have no qualms about using one to build a custom.
I have two commercial FN rifles, (non-Higgins)one now a custom 30-06 and trhe other a deluxe version in .270 Win.
"I guess I should have asked, "What makes a Mauser so special, or super reliable and safe?"
Probably the best answer I can give is Mauser developed the rifle for war. The M98 in my opinion was designed to be the most goof proof weapon of battle possible knowing many of the ssoldiers using is would be scare shiitless recruit in their first firefight. Guess that's why they can be made into such reliable hunting arms.
Another that I like has already been mentioned, the Husqvarna M640. I have one barreled action in 30-06 that I have special plans for. TYhe only stock factory action I've felt that was smoother in operation were the two 6.5 Mannlicher-DScoenaur carbines I once had. Some low life stole them from my truck in Elko Nevada.
If you can find a Higgins at a reasonable price, I wouldn't hesitate jumping on it. The ones I have that are still 30-06s are all nicely accurate. A commercial non-Higgins FN would be even better and probably the Husqvarna the choicest of he three.
I had two Zastavas and while they were accurate and I had no feed problems, they were just a bit rougher than I care for. other than that they were fairly nice rifles.
Paul B.
Our forefathers did not politely protest the British.They did not vote them out of office, nor did they impeach the king,march on the capitol or ask permission for their rights. ----------------They just shot them.
MOLON LABE
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I hate you, PJ, robbing us of donor stock.
Jason, these guys are all giving you good advice. The commercial US import Mausers often run in your price range and show up sporadically at pawn shops and on consignment, even at gun shows.
I stole a Husqvarna 30.06 for only 250 at a pawn shop a couple years ago, the bonus was it had a really nice Redfield target peep which I robbed for another Mauser.
I honestly think the store-brand Mausers are vastly underrated. If you find one, it's almost certain to be a good rifle either as is, or in worst case with a modern custom barrel. Don't be bashful, if you spot one, don't worry about the brand name -- Higgins, Parker Hale, Field -- it's all good.
Up hills slow,
Down hills fast
Tonnage first and
Safety last.
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Joined: May 2005
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"One that I really like is the JC Higgins Belgian-made Mausers. These seem like great rifles for the money. I'd rather get one of these than a sporterized/bubba-ized Mauser, but maybe I am just uncomfortable about these since I don't know much about them. It can be overwhelming with all the variations, dates of manufacture, etc."
I have five rifles based on the J.C. Higgins M50 FN Mausers. The only change I would make on the action is replace the trigger with a Timney. Four are still in 30-06 and are just waiting the funds to be rebarreled in something else. One is now a 7x57 and is very accurate.
Higgins mausers as you know were made by FN, barrels were chrome lined and made by High Standard for Sears. I think the stocks came from either Fajen or Bishop but never did find out which. I have no qualms about using one to build a custom.
I have two commercial FN rifles, (non-Higgins)one now a custom 30-06 and trhe other a deluxe version in .270 Win.
"I guess I should have asked, "What makes a Mauser so special, or super reliable and safe?"
Probably the best answer I can give is Mauser developed the rifle for war. The M98 in my opinion was designed to be the most goof proof weapon of battle possible knowing many of the ssoldiers using is would be scare shiitless recruit in their first firefight. Guess that's why they can be made into such reliable hunting arms.
Another that I like has already been mentioned, the Husqvarna M640. I have one barreled action in 30-06 that I have special plans for. TYhe only stock factory action I've felt that was smoother in operation were the two 6.5 Mannlicher-DScoenaur carbines I once had. Some low life stole them from my truck in Elko Nevada.
If you can find a Higgins at a reasonable price, I wouldn't hesitate jumping on it. The ones I have that are still 30-06s are all nicely accurate. A commercial non-Higgins FN would be even better and probably the Husqvarna the choicest of he three.
I had two Zastavas and while they were accurate and I had no feed problems, they were just a bit rougher than I care for. other than that they were fairly nice rifles.
Paul B. PJ.....same story here. I have 4 '06s, a .270, a 9.3x62, and a .300 WM that will be a .375 Ruger....5 FNs and 2 Huskys. I bought a FN action at a gun show, and my son is sitting on that. I also had a .270 Bee on an FN action, but traded that one off. I took Mule Deers advice years ago and snapped up what I could. I still keep my eyes open, you just never know what you'll find.
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I honestly think the store-brand Mausers are vastly underrated. If you find one, it's almost certain to be a good rifle either as is, or in worst case with a modern custom barrel. Don't be bashful, if you spot one, don't worry about the brand name -- Higgins, Parker Hale, Field -- it's all good. I agree, I've got a Walther barreled 6.5x57 built on a Mk10 action and a 7x64 built on a Santa Barbara, again with a Lothar Walther, and they are both very pleasant to use and both were economical builds.
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Campfire Outfitter
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I like the JC Higgins but hate to say it out loud because they're getting harder to find. I have 3 and they all shoot. I also have a colt model 57 and a NATO arms model 60 that are both similar but have 12 groove barrels. I like the Higgins crome lined bore better. The Higgins balance and shoot well and work just fine as is. I'm a stainless synthetic rem 700 guy but have a weakness for the Higgins.
Bb
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Great info guys. Thanks again!
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Carlsen,
I have owned 3 of the current run of Zastavas and still have one, which I have had two years. All 3 fed beautifully. Some of the machining inside the action was rough-ish, but smoothed up with use.
I found the trigger easy to adjust to a lovely clean light break.
My current is a do-all in 270. Yes they might be slightly agricultural, but crikey they are a very very good price for what you get.
I think the base action, trigger and mag assembly would be a fabulous platform for a nice custom.
Sorry if the safety issue doesn't quite match the OP's criteria. I never use my safety anyway so its never been in issue from my point of view. I don't close the bolt until I am ready to shoot, otherwise it is closed empty.
Kind regards.
- Bob
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As an aside, where can a guy get a few stripper clips for an M98? I've got a Husky in 9.3x62 with the thumb cut and clip guide in the receiver and a couple or three stripper clips would be a dandy way to keep your ammo in your pocket without them rattling all over while still available to get into action fast. Tried some other clips a buddy gave me but they won't fit in the guide.
Thanks.
"This duty fell upon me and was the worst job I ever had in my life.
I have known men I would rather shoot than the worst of dogs."
Frank Wild
Second in Command
Endurance 1914-1916
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What about a Voere Cougar ???? I got one for $450 a few years back and i can't tell the difference between it and a commercial 98....
Whom the gods wish to destroy they first make mad.
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Nobody has mentioned the Browning Safari. You should be able to find a good one for $1000. Just watch out for the saltwood problem. If you buy 1965 and earlier, you're golden.
Last edited by wiktor; 02/23/13.
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I don't know much about Mauser designs
I guess I should have asked, "What makes a Mauser so special, or super reliable and safe?" What is a true Mauser?
Jason, with all due respect, to you and the others posting here, you're doing yourself a dis-service if you don't glom onto a copy of "Bolt Action Rifles" by Frank De Haas. http://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Action-Rifles-Expanded-Edition/dp/0873491688#_![[Linked Image]](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51N2BBNC1QL._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-click,TopRight,35,-76_AA300_SH20_OU01_.jpg) That one book will educate you with words, pics & schematics exactly what the features of the various Mauser rifles are, and since most other BA rifles are included, you can make a direct comparison with just about any other make/type available, both milsurp & commercial - PLUS solid advice on various configurations, cartridge/caliber conversions, and other particular details. A ready reference from a noted expert/researcher in the field is a good tool to keep at hand. .
It ain't no fun, when the rabbit's got the gun
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Campfire Kahuna
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Two other books I've found essential to Mauser research are MAUSER BOLT RIFLES by Ludwig Olson, and THE BOLT ACTION RIFLE: A DESIGN ANALYSIS, by Stuart Otteson. The first volume of the Otteson book is enough to explain the basics, but you can get DVD's of both volumes from Amazon. Another good one is Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on gunsmithing Mauser bolt actions ( www.gunbooks.com).
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.”
John Steinbeck
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This topic has certainly advanced my Mauser education.
Can anyone comment if a J.C. Higgins M50 FN Mauser would have been drilled and tapped from the factory for scope mounts or receiver sights?
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Mine was drilled and tapped for both scope mounts and receiver sight. Just replaced the trigger, bedded the action and added a Buehler safety and it was good to go.
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