Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Montana tinkering....

Tag

Mon"tinker"

The only thing I shoot consistently is big zzzz mule deer bucks, on the place that you were too much of a panzyazzz, broke, drunken, midget to show up for a potentially free hunt. You got the lip service part down pat though.

As I told you before.....chew on this half man....."Como le dije antes, puedo comprar todas sus cosas con el dinero en mi bolsillo."

Shortactionsmoker,

As a Kimber 84M owner really appreciate this thread! Well done.


Any fixes for creep on the trigger?

regards
JohnT

You should be able to get rid of the creep with the sear engagement adjustment.

JG, what does it cost to shoot one of those deer?

'Raider,

I always get a kick out of your Whining Do Nothing Kchunt! Bless you heart. You poor stupid [bleep],it's a shame you are too stupid to savvy how [bleep] stupid you are. Laffin'!

You keep telling yourself that Texas,Spanish and Free...is the way to roll.

Wow +P+.

You damned near thought about saying sumptin' about a rifle,but KNOWED better.

Laffin'!










JohnT,

Anyone asking a question like that,had best not be [bleep] around with adjusting a trigger(ANY trigger). Take it to someone with a clue.

Hint.










Sammo,

The fences help her a smidge.(grin)

Any chance someone could explain this process?

I just last night figured out how to do it on a Remington. No clue about a Kimber. Sorry.

Shame once again a very good thread has to get chit on by certain people.

Couple definitions of a certain someone that I think fit well?


Narcissistic Adult Bully: This type of adult bully is self-centered and does not share empathy with others. Additionally, there is little anxiety about consequences. He or she seems to feel good about him or herself, but in reality has a brittle narcissism that requires putting others down.

Verbal Adult Bully: Words can be quite damaging. Adult bullies who use this type of tactic may start rumors about the victim, or use sarcastic or demeaning language to dominate or humiliate another person. This subtle type of bullying also has the advantage - to the bully - of being difficult to document. However, the emotional and psychological impacts of verbal bullying can be felt quite keenly and can result in reduced job performance and even depression.


This was on tv a few weeks back, just googled it and sure enough here it is. Think it hits all the marks fairly well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCXXH3QTm7o

Thanks cal. Agreed.

I think this thread is very good. Thanks SAS and others. I am wondering about removing the trigger creep as well.

'gwe,

Triggers is easy,but folks asking such questions...had best leave it to others.

That'll save 'em cooking schit off.

Hint.









'74,

I see you are far more at ease in Whining,than you are talking 'bout rifles. Congratulations?!? Mebbe take your hurt feelers and scroll along and let the men talk. Hint.

You Whining Kchunts are a hoot!

Simply shut the [bleep] up,take notes and apply same...if only because it'll much improve your game.

Hint.











'nautique,

I find it fascinating,that you Boobs stick your heads so deeply up your asses,so as to miss these most simplistic of matters.

You can only be lead to water,but it IS funny,when you don't drink.

Hint.

If you are stupid enough to be asking about a trigger's adjustment,you assuredly shouldn't be [bleep] with a trigger's adjustment. Hint.

Who dresses you in the morning and chews your food for you?

Wow.

Actually, the trigger adjusts similar to the old style Remington.

I don't have a rifle in front of me -- I'm at work, so bear with me.

The trigger housing has three screws, two on the front and one on the back. IIRC, all screws are Allen, but the front two also have a hex nut.....I think (going off memory) the rear is just an Allen.

You'll first need to remove the red material prohibiting the nuts and screws from turning.

The two screws on the front adjust over travel (top screw) and weight of pull (bottom screw). The screw in the rear is sear engagement.

Once the nuts are loose, back out the front screws a bit.

With the rifle cocked, tighten the rear screw until the firing pin drops. (You can actually see sear engagement through a small hole in the housing). Back the screw off 1/4 turn.

Work the bolt so the rifle is cocked and tighten the over travel (top front) screw until it makes slight contact with the trigger.

Pull the trigger. Adjust the weight of pull to your liking.

Tighten the hex nuts. Work the bolt and dry fire the rifle several times. Take a rubber mallet and bang the tang to make sure the rifle doesn't accidental discharge.

If all is good, apply your choice of thread locker on the hex nut and screws to prohibit movement.

Again -- I'm doing this from memory, I don't have a rifle in front of me. It's a pretty simple process once you've done a few.

JGRaider, I often have the same question of Remington 700s. Why do folks keep buying them for the action only, then replace every thing including the trigger and bolt handle? Thirty years ago, we just bought a 700, scoped it and shot little bitty groups. Not so much true anymore. Jack

Edit, this also is not intended to flame the product. It seems to me that corporate goals center on profit, and profits are tied to shoddy assembly. It may actually be an economic advantage for the buyer to fine tune things. Not everyone can do that work is the problem. JT

Tag

I was about to ask about a trigger, but I see you just covered it.

Thanks

Dave

Thanks for taking the time. Now all I need to do is find a Montana.

Pretty simple answer. There are very few production rifles that meld ergos, barrel length, twist, and throat geometry that matches box constraints. Kimber is one of the few, but only in a couple of calibers, others still need tweaking. The Remington 700 is relatively cheap and has more replacement parts, triggers, stocks available than anything else. Pretty much every rifle rem makes can be taken off the shelf and shoots plenty good for 99% of shooters/hunters needs. A lot of the people around here are in that 1% that have wants/needs for better.

Boxer�that trigger I just adjusted was on the new .223AI with the 1 in 8 twist�.

But Ive been keeping that from you�'fraid you might try to copy me��..


Preliminary range sessions indicate it might kill schitt�..

If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do internal minor repairs and parts replacement... this may not be for you. Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I'm presenting this information as "Information Only"... it is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information.

If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following, so it's not my fault!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now on to the details
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.

You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.

Remove the barreled action from the stock.

Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...


The three screws are as follows...

On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...
The bottom screw is spring tension...
On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.

First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.

They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.

OK, now down to business.

Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.

Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.

Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.

Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".

Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.

Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.

Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.

Check by:
Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.
Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.

There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.

These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.

thanks dvdegeorge, this is great info