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'smoker,

You's gonna have dumbfhukks cooking schit off.(grin)

THAT is mean.










'402,

Thirty years ago,I bedded everything,tweaked triggers,kissed,found pressure and rocked on. Hint.

I'd MUCH rather do that myself,than get charged for 82 Trick Moves of Snake Oil.

Re-hint.










'87,

I may have a 700.










'gwe,

I've no interest in Wildcats,because if they were that "good" the factory would chamber for them. Same goes twist rates. Do you REALLY "think" that after nearly 100yrs,they don't recognize how exceptional a 1-14" .224" twist rate is,for velocity increases alone?!?

Sir,you are chasing your tail.

Now you have to shoot to make brass and your bullets that don't fly apart,will go too slow.










'george,

You's as mean as SAS.

Sorta like danglin' instructions on how to lick a light socket.(grin)

Kimbers don't shoot,due to their light barrels...EVERYONE knows that.

GB1

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Boxer: Sir, respectfully. I'm not completely sure you know whereof you speak. My new .223AI wildcat with the 1 in 8 twist shoots bullets so fast you can't even see them. Its either that or the faster spin that makes them invisible to the naked eye.
You will never convince me that my shooting 'platform' and complete 'system' isn't working�

sheesh�.


"...the left considers you vermin, and they'll kill you given the chance..." Bristoe
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One of these days, I'm going to follow 'Stick's tutorial and modify the action of a 223 Montana to accept longer COAL....

....I've asked him several things in the past, but I'll refrain from painting advice.


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Dude, my new rifle ( the wildcat 223AI) with the 8 twist benchmark barrel is rapidly climbing to the top of the "favorite rifle" charts! Thanks again!


"...the left considers you vermin, and they'll kill you given the chance..." Bristoe
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They do make a good barrel!

You're not going to paint it Zebra-like are you?


I enjoy handguns and I really like shotguns,...but I love rifles!
IC B2

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Not unless you give me the tutorial on painting�. grin


"...the left considers you vermin, and they'll kill you given the chance..." Bristoe
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I'm no help there, but send it to KY and I'll give it a try!



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Thanks butttt��.. whistle


Its already got a 'money shot' paint job grin

Last edited by ingwe; 01/25/14.

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Originally Posted by ingwe
Not unless you give me the tutorial on painting�. grin


boxer/stic can show you how to break that barrel in too. Just sayin whistle


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

BSA MAGA
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Originally Posted by FOsteology
JGR,

As already pointed out once or twice, the tweaks advocated doesn't just apply to Kimber. It's an excellent check list one should go through for every bolt action rifle no matter the manufacturer.

Everything that has been posted is not that difficult, and doesn't take a trained gunsmith to sort out. Nor does it involve a tremendous amount of time or money.

People don't seem to realize that what you're actually getting for the dollar is a bargain. Where else would one obtain a scaled down stainless steel CRF 3-posi safety rifle that tips the scale at just a little over 5lbs, and already comes equipped with a McMillan comparable synthetic stock for 900-1300 dollars and points and handles like a dream in the hunting fields???

Even IF I were be so unlucky as to acquire a Kimber that doesn't shoot because of a POS barrel (I've rebarreled two, and not because of a POS standard barrel), I'd still not bat an eye. Even if I had to screw on an aftermarket tube, it's still worth the price of admission IMHO.

I've been fortunate to own, handle, and hunt with a lot of different rifles over the years. When it comes to a factory mass produced off the shelf rifle, Kimber as a total package is far and away head and shoulders above the rest IME.

Obviously, for some folks YMMV.


Good post buddy...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

BSA MAGA
IC B3

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Nice write up. Thanks for taking the time to do so.

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I've made the same magazine and action screw mods to my Kimbers. Haven't messed with the bedding as it has appeared to be OK so far. I did notice the rubbing on the shank and forward of the mag well on the stock and action on my 84L in 30-06. Think I'll go back and check the rear lug bedding.

Very good thread.

Where do you find the tape you are using for masking off the stock? It looks like it cuts much cleaner than the blue painter's tape of basic masking tape I've used.


"Whether you think you can or you think you can't, you're right."
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I also want to thank you. I read this thread many times before purchasing my Montana. After I purchased it, I checked it over for any potential problems. You saved me a lot of time to go directly to the source of potential issues. Thankfully everything looks good and the rifle is shooting great but I was fully prepared to jump right in on these fixes. This should be a sticky.



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Just wanted to bump this thread and say 'Thanks'! I have a Kimber that had a mag box problem took it out and started to dremel away. Out of fear of taking off too much (is that possible, we wan it to "float" right?) I stopped after grinding off a little.

Have noticed that there is play in the front of the mag box when I put the rifle back together, but no play in the back of the mag box.

I believe I still need to remove some metal in the back to gain some play. All we want is the mag box to sit in there and hold the cartridges, not be pressing on the action, correct?

When I bolt it all together, and I press the spring/follower up and down, I should see my mag box move around some too? Not be solid, "stuck" from the pressure of the action.

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That is correct. You don't want it binding. Even a tad of jiggle is fine.

Leave the spring/follower out and reassemble. That makes it easier to detect small amounts of movement.

Last edited by shortactionsmoker; 03/10/14.

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Thanks. I have some jiggle in front of mag box, but nothing in back. Need more metal off the back I think. Should I be looking for an equal distance of gap all the way across top of mag box from bottom of action?

Thanks!

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The mag box sits in the action. Removing a tad from the bottom shouldn't leave space at the top? Maybe I misunderstood the question.

Just shave a little off the bottom rear and you'll be fine....


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shortactionsmoker- thanks for taking the time to make this post. Lots of good info spelled out with clear pictures.

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Let me try and clarify. Taking some off the bottom legs should give play up and down on the mag box. So with the spring out, I should be able to place a finger in the mag box and freely move it (even if just a little) up and down in the mag well.

When down, seeing a gap between top frame of mag box and bottom of action. Yes?

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Whether you see a gap or not makes no difference... What you want is movement in the mag box to be sure it's not binding when stock is tightened to bottom metal/magazine..


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