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#8528915 01/30/14
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I kept seeing Mule Deer mention the product Wipe-out, and always speaking highly of it.

So...I finally tacked a 2-can order onto some other things I was needing, and they arrived earlier this week.

What took me so long?? That stuff really makes the job pleasant.

Thanks, JB

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You're welcome!


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I use Wipe-Out a lot, especially when the weather is bad and I can't clean my rifles outdoors. I very much like the idea of my rifles getting clean while I sleep. That happens with Wipe Out.

In better weather, I use Montana X-Treme solvents outdoors which have pretty potent vapors I'd prefer not to inhale.

Either seems to do an excellent job of cleaning my rifles.

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It's about all I use these days. Sometimes when I want to just freshen the barrel up a bit I will use Bore Tech Eliminator on a few patches but for serious cleaning the Wipe Out is it.

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Dyna Bore Coat and Wipe Out have changed all of gun cleaning habits. Love the stuff.


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Too much mess. Good for if your rifle barrel has never been squeaky clean (if you want that), but I prefer the Kroil-then-KG route. Every once and a while I'll give W-O a go, though...

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Great stuff.

Less time rod and jag stays out of the barrel, the better.

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Too much mess? I just put an empty case in the chamber and squirt WO in the muzzle. A day later I open the action to remove the case, and push a few patches through.


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Hmm, might have to try that. I clamp the barrel in the vise, angled slightly toward the muzzle, put the trash can below the muzzle, jam the rubber tube in the chamber and squirt it in. After a few seconds the foam stops flowing out the muzzle, and I just jam an oversized cotton patch in the chamber. Never had any issues.



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Mule Deer;
Top of the morning to you sir, hopefully this finds you folks doing well on the last day of January.

Thanks for the tip on using Wipe Out, as I mentioned I'm going to try to source some up here and give it a whirl.

A silly question perhaps, but am I to understand you leave it butt down then with the empty case in the chamber?

Thanks in advance John and all the best to you and Eileen this weekend.

Dwayne

Last edited by BC30cal; 01/31/14. Reason: better sentence?

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Hi Dwayne,

No, I stand the rifle on its muzzle. Otherwise the WO will seep past the case a little.

The only reason for the case is to keep the foam from oozing all through the action. I must admit, however, that once in a while I just close the bolt, and the WO gives the bolt-face a nice cleaning as well.

Best to you, and hope you have a nice weekend!


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Too much mess? I just put an empty case in the chamber and squirt WO in the muzzle. A day later I open the action to remove the case, and push a few patches through.


Why didn't I think of that? I just used it for the first time a couple of days ago. Seems like good stuff.


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I suspect, don't have any proof, that I got WO on my stock bedding and it softened the bedding material. I can't prove this happened but the rifle had shot well for several years but the accuracy went away and then I found the bedding material could be gouged with a finger nail. Anyone here ever have something similar happen?

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A bore guide w/o-ring is a good Friend when using wipeout,
My second best friend is a 8" piece of flexible fuel line just a hair bigger than your case....it will seal off the chamber AND allow w/o to push all the way through the barrel.
Let the fuel line hang out the action ejection port to drain "over blow".
I've found the fuel line trick is the ONLY way (OK my way) to clean a lever action or auto/pump type rifle.

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Originally Posted by kraky111
My second best friend is a 8" piece of flexible fuel line just a hair bigger than your case....it will seal off the chamber AND allow w/o to push all the way through the barrel.
Let the fuel line hang out the action ejection port to drain "over blow".
I've found the fuel line trick is the ONLY way (OK my way) to clean a lever action or auto/pump type rifle.


That is a neat idea...and I usually have some fuel hose laying around all the time. I will definitely have to try this out!

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Just a thought, would an o-ring of sorts around the cartridge seal it?

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I have never used Wipe Out but I do use Wipe Out Patch Out and it works great. I just never liked the foam cleaners.


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I flood the bore with Montana X-Treme instead of Wipeout but I bought a few of these in different sizes to plug the chamber. They should work just the same with Wipeout. They cost a few cents each at most hardware stores.

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Originally Posted by Boise
I suspect, don't have any proof, that I got WO on my stock bedding and it softened the bedding material. I can't prove this happened but the rifle had shot well for several years but the accuracy went away and then I found the bedding material could be gouged with a finger nail. Anyone here ever have something similar happen?

This happened to one of my rifles. After a lousy session at the range with a usually accurate rifle, I took it home and checked everything. When I removed the stock a little of the bedding fell out. What was left had turned rubbery. I re-bedded it and it was good to go. I am way more careful about plugging the action now.
I use a rolled up piece of blue paper shop towel. Make it kind of case shaped and push it in tight. The towel soaks up some of the WO and cleans the front of the chamber area, but keeps it from getting into the bedding. I also use a vise, barrel angled down over a small trash can I keep on my bench.

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I plug the breach end, spray wipe out down the bore, and then just lay the rifle on it's side on the floor. Should I be standing it muzzle down?

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I've never used it, but I would think standing it muzzle down would be best. Otherwise I would think it would "settle" to one side of the barrel?

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Originally Posted by Boise
Anyone here ever have something similar happen?



When I used WO, the fired case, on the next range trip, was "glued" so tightly in the chamber I could barely get the bolt open. Subsequent firings were the same. I had to gunk up the action with solvents to clean the chamber area which is what I was trying to avoid by using WO in the first place.

Muzzle down, chamber plugged for a reason.


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I was just looking at the W/O products at midway. Which one is it that y'all are using and liking the most?

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That's where I bought mine from.

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You guys are making this harder than it has to be. Just rest the rifle horizontally in a gun cradle etc. Stuff a blue shop towel in the chamber area. You actually don't want something airtight in the chamber because it makes it harder for the foam to expand all the way from the muzzle to the throat.

I leave it horizontal overnight and then give it a zip with some patches or a Boresnake.

After that, take a mop and swap the chamber, and a bent qtip to clean around the lugs.

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I use a bore guide. Short squirts in the muzzle until it comes out the guide, paper towel under both ends.

I use a slight incline towards the muzzle to keep WO out of the action area.

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Just stuff a couple of patches into the chamber with a short
cleaning rod - it seals excessive foam just fine. Push them out from the muzzle and clean the barrel as usual practice.
A couple of short bursts of foam works best so as not to waste too much product.


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Originally Posted by Vic_in_Va
I use a bore guide. Short squirts in the muzzle until it comes out the guide, paper towel under both ends.

I use a slight incline towards the muzzle to keep WO out of the action area.


Pre-Zactley! That's the same method I use. No problems whatsoever.


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Reloder28,

Why was the case still in the chamber when you went to the range? Hadn't you swabbed out the bore?


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deg967,

I've used both the foam and the Patch-Out. They both work about the same on fouling, but the foam is easier to get inside the bore. No rod, no patches, just squirt it in and leave it.

It does take a little practice to not overload the barrel. All you need to do it fill the bore. Just tap the button at first, waiting a couple of seconds between taps.

I must comment that in years of using Wipe-Out I've yet to get it down into the action bedding, whether blocking it with an empty case or just the bolt face. But maybe I'm just a cheapskate, so use the minimum amount!


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I use some clear vinyl tubing that's about 3/16" inside diameter and about 3/10 " OD , jam it onto the nozzle and then jam the other end into the throat or against the shoulder in smaller calibers. Then use MD's techniques of short squirts 'til it oozes out the muzzle.

I'll lay it on one side and the next day after pushing some patches through it, if I think there's still more copper fouling, I'll give it another application and lay it on the other side.



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LOVE my wipeout! Had a bad experience with a new can this last go-round though. Got my new can ready to go, straw inserted, shook vigorously, and nothing....my brand new can had lost pressure. Completely full....nothing but a drip drip of fluid, not foam.

Wonder if they will make good on it? Had another new can and proceeded to go to town on the gunk.


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John, Have you tried the Gunslick foam? If so how does it compare to Wipe Out?


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Another vote for PATCH Out. The foam is fun, but the patch liquid works better. Use plastic bore brushes or plastic jags with patches to wet everything down, come back tomorrow.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
deg967,

I've used both the foam and the Patch-Out. They both work about the same on fouling, but the foam is easier to get inside the bore. No rod, no patches, just squirt it in and leave it.

It does take a little practice to not overload the barrel. All you need to do it fill the bore. Just tap the button at first, waiting a couple of seconds between taps.

I must comment that in years of using Wipe-Out I've yet to get it down into the action bedding, whether blocking it with an empty case or just the bolt face. But maybe I'm just a cheapskate, so use the minimum amount!


Thanks MD gonna get the foam!

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Hmmm, I have never tried this stuff but I will have to give it a try. Has anyone ever used it on an antique? I have a winchester 1892 built in 1896, just wondering if it might be too harsh? Thank you for the information.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Reloder28,

Why was the case still in the chamber when you went to the range? Hadn't you swabbed out the bore?


Well, it was actually the first fired case on that range trip that stuck. No, I did not swab out the chamber, bore yes. As a newcomer to the product I was unaware of the need. I definitely know now.

There are times when you don't know what you don't know.


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Ah! Yeah, that could sure happen.

I have a friend who got a bunch of Dyna Bore Coat in the chamber of one of his rifles, and after it dried couldn't chamber rounds. I suggested twirling a 28-gauge bore brush inside the chamber, and luckily it worked....


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Great tips!!
I have some 223 chamber things with built in O rings. I also purchased a chamber spray attachment for the Wipe out but spraying in from the chamber I always had some leak out before I got the plug in. I'll go from the bore and keep the muzzle down from now on!!

I previously used a fired case but leakage that "glued" the extractor (M700) in place where you couldn't close the bolt - from then on, the bolt face gets a scrubbin' with solvent.


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I've tried both wipe-out and patch -out. I prefer the patch-out. Hasbeen


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Just keep it away from the wood. It will RUIN the finish! That said, I wouldn't use anything else anymore.


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Quote
Use plastic bore brushes


I hear this a lot but I have never seen any to buy. I have looked at several gun shops and all they have is copper/brass/bronze and maybe stainless steel. I figure on line but have never done any kind of search and would be leery because of thread size problems. I have a good one piece rod (and a lot of multiple piece) but I do not know the thread size. miles


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Sorry thought this was a Super Bowl thread

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Originally Posted by Spotshooter
Sorry thought this was a Super Bowl thread

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While the rest of the civilized world was tolerating the Super Bowl, I decided to disassemble & clean a long neglected 22 rimfire that I haven't fired in years due to a cracked stock.
Looking down the bore it looked a little fuzzy and the rifling was actually hard to define.
Soaked it down with Wipe-Out and let it soak for an hour, patched it out and the bore was bright and shiny again. I thought it can't be clean yet so I did another application and my patches came out clean.
I don't know how that stuff works, but it works good.


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Someone said something about tubing, that is what I do, got a piece from the hardware about 12 Ins. long that fits the chamber tight.

Then I fasten two clamps to the edge of the work bench to keep the rifle from tipping over, stand the rifle muzzle down between the clamps and filler up with WO, leave the can attached to the tube for a minute or two till the pressure goes down, leave the tube in the chamber till its time to brush, nylon brush with a piece of paper towel, VIOLA!


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Originally Posted by Spotshooter
Sorry thought this was a Super Bowl thread


And I was expecting The Surfaris.


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Originally Posted by ClaysEtc
Someone said something about tubing, that is what I do, got a piece from the hardware about 12 Ins. long that fits the chamber tight.

Then I fasten two clamps to the edge of the work bench to keep the rifle from tipping over, stand the rifle muzzle down between the clamps and filler up with WO, leave the can attached to the tube for a minute or two till the pressure goes down, leave the tube in the chamber till its time to brush, nylon brush with a piece of paper towel, VIOLA!


It would work better if the rifle was horizontal, don't have a can of it in front of me but it clearly states that in the instructions.

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Wipeout has been surpassed. Boretech elminator and Boretech copper remover work better and faster.

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Nope...Eliminator's tits on a boar hog...


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Originally Posted by 5sdad
Originally Posted by Spotshooter
Sorry thought this was a Super Bowl thread


And I was expecting The Surfaris.
I have been wondering for several days if anyone else immediately thought of them!


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Originally Posted by milespatton
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Use plastic bore brushes


I hear this a lot but I have never seen any to buy. I have looked at several gun shops and all they have is copper/brass/bronze and maybe stainless steel. I figure on line but have never done any kind of search and would be leery because of thread size problems. I have a good one piece rod (and a lot of multiple piece) but I do not know the thread size. miles
You can order nylon brushes from the good folks at Montana-X-treme. They don't always have all the sizes in stock at one time, but I got everything I needed in two orders a few weeks apart.


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Originally Posted by jorgeI
Nope...Eliminator's tits on a boar hog...


Have you used BE?

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Yes I have and it required significant elbow grease and numerous applications. I did a comparison with two rifles and the same amount of rounds down the tube and WO was much easier to apply and yielded better results.


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You can order nylon brushes from the good folks at Montana-X-treme.


Thank you Mudhen. miles


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What do you guys use to plug the muzzle and chamber when using wipe out. I like the idea of standing it on the muzzle overnight. Thanks, 163bc

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Originally Posted by 163bc
What do you guys use to plug the muzzle and chamber when using wipe out. I like the idea of standing it on the muzzle overnight. Thanks, 163bc


MD said he uses a fired case to mostly seal the chamber.


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I have not used WO, but when I use Kroil to soak a barrel I use cheap foam earplugs. They form to the bore and seal well. Just my .02

Last edited by turbine1; 02/05/14. Reason: typeo

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Yup, foam earplugs work great.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Too much mess? I just put an empty case in the chamber and squirt WO in the muzzle. A day later I open the action to remove the case, and push a few patches through.


Now that's a darn good idea. Never thought of that!

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Originally Posted by olblue
John, Have you tried the Gunslick foam? If so how does it compare to Wipe Out?


I'm having a heck of a time finding Wipe-Out, but I found a can of Gunslick foam. How do the two compare?


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Wipe-Out is actually very easy to use, with a little practice-
I drop the floorplate on my bolt actions, place a folded paper towel into the action area, and insert the Wipe-Out cannister with plastic tubing attached. A small squirt or two into the chamber end, just until foam begins to come out of the end of the barrel, is all you need. Leave the plastic tubing end in place for a few seconds, until the foam is done expanding.
Leave overnite, run a couple of patches thru. If still copper colored, do again. Then, a couple of patches with Hoppes Elite to clean things up, and a 28 ga. bore mop into the chamber to clean it as well.


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It also works quite well.

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
It also works quite well.


Thank you. Now to find some Dyna Bore Coat.


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I don't think it's as aggressive as Wipe Out but it comes in a larger can with an applicator nozzle. It works well enough I'll continue using both.

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Originally Posted by Pharmseller
Originally Posted by olblue
John, Have you tried the Gunslick foam? If so how does it compare to Wipe Out?


I'm having a heck of a time finding Wipe-Out, but I found a can of Gunslick foam. How do the two compare?


P


It's available at Midway.

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I have been using Wipe-Out for several years now. My method:
I use Butch's Bore Shine to clean out the carbon, then Wipe-Out Accelerator followed by Wipe-Out. I have found that foaming from the muzzle or using the supplied straw from the chamber will usually result in a mess, so I have started using these:
To start, you will need some 1/4" tubing and some 3/8" tubing which can be found a any home improvement store in the plumbing section. Cut the tubing to length. What works for me has been about 1-2" of the 3/8" and 6-8" of the 1/4". Now stick the 1/4"; into the short 3/8".
[Linked Image]
Second you will need to take a fired case and drill out the primer and primer pocket using a 1/4" bit. You will need to clamp the case in a vise, but be sure to grab the base area of the case. This will need to go all the way through the base of the case so the tubing will reach the neck of the case. Insert the tubing into the case and this is what you should have.
[Linked Image]
Attach your applicator to the bottle of Wipe-Out.
[Linked Image]
Now you should be able to get to work. Be sure to shake the Wipe-Out as it states in the directions. Insert the applicator into chamber from the ejection port. With a little forward pressure on the applicator I will fill the bore with the Wipe-Out while plugging the muzzle with a finger. Once the bore is filled, I will release the finger from the muzzle and wait until the foam is finished "expanding." This is when you can remove the applicator from the chamber. If done properly, there won't be a mess in the action and there will be little waste. I'd also suggest having a bucket or trash can under the muzzle to catch the waste. I would like to say I came up with this on my own, but I didn't. I picked it up from a Benchrest guy at my rifle club. Hopefully someone will find this helpful! I would also advise not using the kitchen counter for cleaning, this was done for pictures only. smile

[Linked Image][Linked Image]


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Originally Posted by Engine22
I have been using Wipe-Out for several years now. My method:
I use Butch's Bore Shine to clean out the carbon, then Wipe-Out Accelerator followed by Wipe-Out. I have found that foaming from the muzzle or using the supplied straw from the chamber will usually result in a mess, so I have started using these:
To start, you will need some 1/4" tubing and some 3/8" tubing which can be found a any home improvement store in the plumbing section. Cut the tubing to length. What works for me has been about 1-2" of the 3/8" and 6-8" of the 1/4". Now stick the 1/4"; into the short 3/8".
[Linked Image]
Second you will need to take a fired case and drill out the primer and primer pocket using a 1/4" bit. You will need to clamp the case in a vise, but be sure to grab the base area of the case. This will need to go all the way through the base of the case so the tubing will reach the neck of the case. Insert the tubing into the case and this is what you should have.
[Linked Image]
Attach your applicator to the bottle of Wipe-Out.
[Linked Image]
Now you should be able to get to work. Be sure to shake the Wipe-Out as it states in the directions. Insert the applicator into chamber from the ejection port. With a little forward pressure on the applicator I will fill the bore with the Wipe-Out while plugging the muzzle with a finger. Once the bore is filled, I will release the finger from the muzzle and wait until the foam is finished "expanding." This is when you can remove the applicator from the chamber. If done properly, there won't be a mess in the action and there will be little waste. I'd also suggest having a bucket or trash can under the muzzle to catch the waste. I would like to say I came up with this on my own, but I didn't. I picked it up from a Benchrest guy at my rifle club. Hopefully someone will find this helpful! I would also advise not using the kitchen counter for cleaning, this was done for pictures only. smile

[Linked Image][Linked Image]


I do the same thing minus the fired case and the 1/4 tubing. Cut a piece of 3/8 tubing 8" long and attach one end to the can. Hold the other end in the chamber with a little force (it ends up in the shoulder portion of the chamber) and press on the nozzle enough to get the foam coming out the muzzle. once the foam has quit expanding remove the tube, wipe the foam off the muzzle and let it sit. No plugs no voodoo dolls etc.

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Thanks!


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Opinions on the sister product Patch Out?


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Does Wipe-Out remove Dyna Bore Coat?


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No it does not.


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Seuss,

Patch-Out works just like Wipe-Out as far as removing fouling. Just depends on which method of application you prefer.


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Originally Posted by Engine22
I have been using Wipe-Out for several years now. My method:


Just shoot it through the muzzle, not the chamber. Stuff a shop towel in the breech.

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Originally Posted by Engine22
I have been using Wipe-Out for several years now. My method:
I use Butch's Bore Shine to clean out the carbon, then Wipe-Out Accelerator followed by Wipe-Out. I have found that foaming from the muzzle or using the supplied straw from the chamber will usually result in a mess, so I have started using these:
To start, you will need some 1/4" tubing and some 3/8" tubing which can be found a any home improvement store in the plumbing section. Cut the tubing to length. What works for me has been about 1-2" of the 3/8" and 6-8" of the 1/4". Now stick the 1/4"; into the short 3/8".
[Linked Image]
Second you will need to take a fired case and drill out the primer and primer pocket using a 1/4" bit. You will need to clamp the case in a vise, but be sure to grab the base area of the case. This will need to go all the way through the base of the case so the tubing will reach the neck of the case. Insert the tubing into the case and this is what you should have.
[Linked Image]
Attach your applicator to the bottle of Wipe-Out.
[Linked Image]
Now you should be able to get to work. Be sure to shake the Wipe-Out as it states in the directions. Insert the applicator into chamber from the ejection port. With a little forward pressure on the applicator I will fill the bore with the Wipe-Out while plugging the muzzle with a finger. Once the bore is filled, I will release the finger from the muzzle and wait until the foam is finished "expanding." This is when you can remove the applicator from the chamber. If done properly, there won't be a mess in the action and there will be little waste. I'd also suggest having a bucket or trash can under the muzzle to catch the waste. I would like to say I came up with this on my own, but I didn't. I picked it up from a Benchrest guy at my rifle club. Hopefully someone will find this helpful! I would also advise not using the kitchen counter for cleaning, this was done for pictures only. smile

[Linked Image][Linked Image]


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Glad I found this

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Bought my first can have yet to try it, cost me $20.99CDN
looking forward to trying it.


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I used Wipe Out since it first came out. I got to thinking to much which is an unfortunate problem for me and decided I wasn't sweating so something was wrong. I switched to Montana Extreme because a friend that shoots competitively uses it. I noticed in the rifling of one of my favorite rifles what looked like rust. I am pretty rough on guns so I thought it was from neglect. It turned out to be copper. I thought Montana Extreme was supposed to be really aggressive but I guess not. I also use Accelerator with Wipeout but be careful. When I first started I would do it without gloves and my fingers would turn white. Now I am more careful. I am sure none of these chemicals are good for you when on your skin.

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