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Originally Posted by AlaskaCub
Originally Posted by scuggs
I'm surprised that theres hardly been a mention of the floating, aluminum recoil lug. Yes I have seen many tikkas shoot lights out. however they have been primarily in milder recoiling calibers. I have seen more then a couple tikkas chambered in higher recoiling calibers not do so great. If they'd slap a normal steel lug between the barrel and action I feel that it would drastically improve the design.


And I have seen a 300 WM Tikka (mine) shoot the hottest 200 gr l�ads into an inch at 200 yards. Also one of my hunting partners 338WM tikka shoot like a 1.5" group at 300 yards with hot 250 gr Partition loads. Shooting the harder recoiling magnum T3's is no fun and i gather that many guys can't help but develop a flinch after a few shots. That stock is not recoil friendly!


HOT loading any rifle will make it not recoil friendly. You don't need HOT loads to kill stuff.


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Thanks for the valuable tip!....grin

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I am also a leftie and preferred the Rem 700 platform to build what was not offered unless going through the custom shop. Had been on the hunt for a few years for a stainless synthetic standard cal in a 700. If I did find one it was priced more than I was willing to pay.

Last fall I bought a used Tikka T3 lite stainless, used but as new in 270. All I can say is, WHAT the heck took me so long to try one?!!! Shoots every thing I feed it in little groups, excellent factory trigger. Is it perfect? No, but nothing comes close for the price and I can easily live with whatever few minor flaws it has.

Followed it up with another stainless in 243 if that tells you anything. By the way I did not use the supplied rings, went with Leupold there.


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Originally Posted by smokepole
Originally Posted by cra1948
Torque specs are designed to prevent exceeding the elastic limit of the material the threaded fasteners are made of.


So, the elastic limit of the steel in Tikka screws/actions is significantly less than the elastic limit of steel in other brands?


Don't know. It depends, primarily, on the coefficient of elasticity of the particular alloy used and the cross-sectional area of the fasteners. They seem well enough engineered that there must be a certain rhyme and reason for the specifications given. Usually (not always) a good idea to not second guess the people who engineered something. I guess, in this case, the first question I'd ask is "Have we experienced any problems torqueing the screws to factory specs?"


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Originally Posted by cra1948
Not to hijack the thread, but maybe a few words on torque specs would be appropriate:

Torque specifications aren't set to protect the parts being held together from excessive compression. Torque specs are designed to prevent exceeding the elastic limit of the material the threaded fasteners are made of. It's the elasticity in the steel of the screws, bolts, lugs, whatever, that provides the tension that keeps things tight. If, by over torqueing, you apply sufficient tensile stress to exceed the elastic limit of the fastener material (not hard to do if you calculate the mechanical advantage derived from screw threads) there is nothing to hold the fastener tight except friction.


In most cases, yes I would agree. I ran a high-performance automotive shop for 8 years, so I'm no stranger to torque specs and their application, but I would add that torque specs are set to prevent damage to the weakest link in a given system. This is why you see different torque specs for different stock types, to prevent compression or damage of the BM/stock material. Having worked with enough screws similar is thread size and length to the action screws on the T3, I can tell you that 4.5 ft-lbs is nowhere near the limits of the fasteners' elasticity. A similar screw would commonly see 18 ft-lbs in many automotive applications.

I've seen wheel lugs, axle flange bolts, transmission mounts, etc, and yes even rifle action screws work loose over time, even when torqued to factory spec. So John is right that I do have some pre-conceived ideas about torque specs. wink

Regarding that aluminum recoil lug, I've seen it get indented and permanently compressed in spots from use in a .25-06, let alone the much harder recoiling cartridges. They typically shoot lights out, but that recoil lug is a wear item, and being made of steel would inspire a bit more confidence.

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Originally Posted by cra1948
Don't know. It depends, primarily, on the coefficient of elasticity of the particular alloy used and the cross-sectional area of the fasteners. They seem well enough engineered that there must be a certain rhyme and reason for the specifications given. Usually (not always) a good idea to not second guess the people who engineered something. I guess, in this case, the first question I'd ask is "Have we experienced any problems torqueing the screws to factory specs?"


Jordan said it better than I could. "We have experienced problems torqueing the screws above factory specs."

The problem wasn't with the screws, however. Which leads me to believe the torque specs are in fact based on the compressive strength of the parts being compressed, which is the limiting factor.

Contrary to your first post above.




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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Since when was this about "need"? grin



It's not, I was just repeating something I read once, here on the 'fire. laugh


But I WILL say, I have found MY personal niche, as far as calibers are concerned. Altho I have over a dozen Tikkas in the safe, I'm only building 708's and .284's anymore.

With the excellent bullets available in 7MM, there's nothing I can't kill with them.

Well, maybe a brown bear in AK...but then I'll just borrow Alaska Cub's Tikka while he's behind me yelling, "SHOOT AL!!!" grin


For the lug haters, try this. Reciever face squared off, and my custom designed/CNC built lug installed and double pinned to the action. When I bed the barreled action, I use the slot under the receiver as a secondary bedding surface. There you have it, my secret is out...along with pictures. wink

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

This is the only thing I tweak on my Tikkas, but I do it to all of them. I'm starting to perfect pillar bedding with the factory lug...just for something to do. I agree, a steel replacement might be a good option.


As to the original posters question as to the bad? Not the rifle, but the rings. The factory rings, and the way they attach, are junk. I have a bagful of them.

Last edited by yukonal; 02/28/14.

Originally Posted by archie_james_c
I should have just
bought a [bleep] T3...


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I bought a steel lug off of ebay for $23 IIRC. The factory did have a tiny compression indent after several hundred rounds, but it sure didn't seem to hurt anything.
The steel lug was just an impulse buy. It is working just fine.


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factory rings work fine . i replaced the screws with black one because i thought the zinc color didn't match the gun at all.

your local ace hardware carries the screws.only thing i dislike about my tikka is its not american made.

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Originally Posted by yukonal


Well, maybe a brown bear in AK...but then I'll just borrow Alaska Cub's Tikka while he's behind me yelling, "SHOOT AL!!!" grin.


Funny you say that because that buddy with the 338 and I took both of them to the Peninsula for brown bear, hence the heavier loads we were using. Unfortunately other than shooting in the sand at 60 yards to stop a very large and eager sow with two year olds, they shed no blood!....grin

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I'm not sure what people think they are accomplishing by cranking the piss out of action screws? Either the action is sitting flat and snug, or it isn't. I torque my Tikka screws to 40 inch lbs, and use a drop of blue locktight. The screws aren't supposed to do anything other than attach a handle. The lug is what keeps it from moving.

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If the components were built to take a reasonable amount of torque, you wouldn't (and shouldn't) need any Locktite on those action screws wink

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I agree, they should put a label on the tikka action that says "Forget everything you know about bolt action rifles and don't touch a [bleep] thing! Add ammo and shoot!

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Originally Posted by yukonal
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Since when was this about "need"? grin



It's not, I was just repeating something I read once, here on the 'fire. laugh


But I WILL say, I have found MY personal niche, as far as calibers are concerned. Altho I have over a dozen Tikkas in the safe, I'm only building 708's and .284's anymore.

With the excellent bullets available in 7MM, there's nothing I can't kill with them.

Well, maybe a brown bear in AK...but then I'll just borrow Alaska Cub's Tikka while he's behind me yelling, "SHOOT AL!!!" grin


For the lug haters, try this. Reciever face squared off, and my custom designed/CNC built lug installed and double pinned to the action. When I bed the barreled action, I use the slot under the receiver as a secondary bedding surface. There you have it, my secret is out...along with pictures. wink

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

This is the only thing I tweak on my Tikkas, but I do it to all of them. I'm starting to perfect pillar bedding with the factory lug...just for something to do. I agree, a steel replacement might be a good option.


As to the original posters question as to the bad? Not the rifle, but the rings. The factory rings, and the way they attach, are junk. I have a bagful of them.


Excellent post! Thanks, Al!

And BTW, I'm groovin' on your cartridge choices. Seems a 7-08 is the new .30-06 grin

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7-08's are dogs...

Oh no I didn't!

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If you are able to find a M695 tikka in good condition I would seriously consider it. I have one called the whitetail hunter which was discontinued and then the T3 came out. It is quite possibly the most accurate rifle I own. With my Sako A7 coming in second. Absolutely love it.

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Originally Posted by dogcatcher223
7-08's are dogs...

Oh no I didn't!



[URL=http://s174.photobucket.com/user/pharmseller/media/200yardAccubond7mm-08_zps221db0fb.jpg.html][Linked Image][/URL


Not bad for 200 yards.


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only bad is i can't find one in 6.5x55sw lefthand

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Did somebody say Tikka at 200 yards?????

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Originally Posted by yukonal
The one size all argument is a dead subject... There are several benefits if you think about it.
I've handled only one, a .308 Win. That the bolt can't run it's full length did seem to have a benefit: It had little if any bolt binding at full stroke, unlike the other bolt actions I tried that day.

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