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Anyone know if the 416 ruger will cycle thru a 375 ruger if I deal with the barrel?
I am a lefty.

I have a friend here in Alaska who just switched barrels to do the same thing and loves it. He will probably weigh in on here with more details

Wish they made it in .308, instead of the 06.

Coming to AK for a few months this fall
Would likea fishing and walking around gun
had a 416 in a no 1 for a few years but traded for a 45-70

The 45 - 70 went for a feather wt 16 ga
Now back to buying a new gun
Oh well

Billc1111, since you will obviously be using factory ammo, on a hunting trip, why not just stick with the factory loads in a 375 Ruger. Both Ruger and Remington are pulling back the velocities of their 416's to 2400 fps. This is what kills best, and its what speed the bullet makers want you to use them at.

If you want the African models with the 23 inch barrels, that may be a different story. FWIW, I use a 416 Wildcatted 375 Ruger, with the half inch long neck of the old 416 Rigby. I have a couple of grains more than the 416 Taylor, but probably won't break 2400 fps with the 400 grain bullet. 2400fps gives max penetration with the Speer 350 gr. Mag Tips, and this is more like the old 400 Jeffery in recoil.

I'm not gaining anything over the stock 375 Ruger, and I have a 24 inch barrel. I just wanted a clone of left handed P.H. Harry Selby's infamous military Mauser 416 Rigby. By trimming back a Lyman 416 Rigby sizing die, three tenth's of an inch, I can reload, but not form my wildcat ammo with this Lyman die set. The seater works fine, right out of the orange box.

I also have a custom New Dimension die set from Hornady, plus my case forming die set, which includes a case body taper only die, to even out the work load between the 45 cal. stage, and the 40 cal. stage. If I buckle a loaded round after crimping it, I merely run it back through this taper only die, to iron out the shoulders. But Hornady doesn't approve of this use of their die with a loaded round. But I figure its loaded when you retract it out of their seating die, so what the heck.

BTW, I'm left handed too.

A fella on Gunbroker (Spring Run) who bought up and was selling the first batch of LH Alaskans, swapped a couple barrels with RH .416s with no other changes. Said it worked good.
Would Ruger sell just a barrel?

No issue at all, dimensionally identical except for the bore diameter. Will be an easy swap if you have the barrel. Or just do what I did, BUY ONE OF EACH!

Billc1111, I would still advise anyone to use factory ammo. Especially if you reload these with the Hornady New Dimension reloading dies. Their floating sleeve only holds the necks, so you can easily buckle the shoulders when you put in a heavy crimp. For my own wildcat, I have the extra taper only form die, so I run every loaded round through it as a final precaution. This die doesn't touch either the neck nor the bullet.

The simple cure is to run every loaded round through your rifle, before you venture out into Bear country. But you will still need to crimp these 416 bullets, when you reload. A recent gun magazine article on a 416 Rigby in a 10.5 lb. rifle, made with a Montana Rifle Co. action, showed movements of those same bullets in the bottom of the magazine box. The Rugers are lighter, and have the same horsepower as that MMA actioned 416 Rigby. But the 416 Ruger case is one tough hombre, so its bullets may stay in place, even with the shorter necks.

Yes. I've had 2 Ruger Hawkeyes - an African and an Alaskan - re-bored from 375 Ruger to 404 (0.423") and both feed almost any bullet without problems.

If you're considering the conversion a re-bore is a good alternative to a re-barrel.

Love my Ruger 375 Guide Gun. Very accurate and well balanced. I have Alaskan Arms low QD rings with a Leupold VX3 2.5-8x36mm with the Boone & Crockett reticle. Using it for elk, bear and moose. When deciding went with the 375 over the 416. If I get a chance to go to Africa I figure I can purchase another rifle in 416 or larger.