Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles The best bore cleaner you ever used?

Wipe-Out here but I use copper bullets exclusively. Also if your bore is nice and smooth you don't have to clean nearly as often,

Kroil first, then either bore tech eliminator, or wipe out lately. All my barrels are treated with dyna bore coat though, so cleaning is really easy anymore.

As an aside, Kroil works to remove lead fouling too, if you shoot cast bullets. Just let it soak for an hour or two, then dry patches. Lead comes out on the dry patches.

+1

GWB

Wipe out/patchout used with the accelerator works really well and really fast.

I use the Outers version of wipe out, it's great stuff, I just take my 7mm RM barrel off its a Blaser R-93, let it sit for 10 min or so, push two patches thru and done. Then one patch with some gun oil and that it. I clean out power fouling with Hoppe's Number 9 some how its not hunting season with out the oder of Hoppe's Number 9!

Wipe Out. If I have a lot of rounds down the tube, I sometimes hit the throat area with KG Carbon Cleaner before the Wipe-Out.

+1 have it and the bore tech copper eliminator. makes cleanup too easy


2nd place

Wipeout Accelerator and wipe out foam or liquid..

I should re-phrase.

I heard of it. I own a bunch just never heard of it as a cleaner, only as a protectant and penetrator

Bore Tech Eliminator for me

If it penetrates, that means its cleaning.

Hoppes #9. It's been working good since I was 15yr old, I'm 68 now! Bad copper fouling does get Sweets.

Bore tech Eliminator is the best I've ever used. It's powerful enough false blue ends up on patches from your jag. I've now gone to Tipton coated jags so I can tell when the copper's gone.

The TM Solution for regular cleaning, which I only do after my rifle starts losing accuracy, (after hundreds of rounds).

Montana X-Treme .50 BMG for copper fouling, if the TM Solution doesn't do the trick, (after hundreds and hundreds of rounds), then followed by the TM Solution to clean the remnants of the .50 BMG out, then I lube with the TM Solution Bore Oil.

Works well for me, although I will admit that ME .50 BMG is some horrible [bleep] to breathe and smell, do it in your shop with your doors open, it works well though and luckily is not needed often.

Another vote for Bore Tech Eliminator. Great stuff.

This is a favorite of mine, I make it gallons at a time, real cheap over the long haul. I like having a volume on hand to hose out my barreled actions on a yearly basis. Also great to dissolve shotgun wad fouling. Warning, I'd not hose out Remington box triggers with this stuff if you add the LLA for long term storage, the LLA will give your trigger problems. Use lighter fluid to hose out the box triggers. Otherwise, this stuff for most everything metal, and maybe some Sweets now and then if I run into neglected copper build up.

Steve's Squeeze
1 quart deodorized mineral spirits or Exxon ClearLite fuel.
1 quart xylene
1 quart MEK
1 quart ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil

For rust protection in storage, add 4 ounces of Lee Liquid Alox per gallon.
There will be a precipitate in the bottom of the storage container. Do not
shake the storage container, pour the cleaner off the precipitate for use.

Because of the increased solvent power of Steve's Squeeze, store it in glass
or metal containers. Do not store this mixture in plastic bottles. It can
destroy plastic, and it will evaporate through the plastic. You can use
polyethylene squeeze bottles for application, but not for storage. Steve's
Squeeze is harmless to bluing and nickel plating, however it will damage
many stock finishes.

Print this label and place on the container:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER

CAUTION: HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Flammable mixture, Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or
spray mist. Avoid contact with skin.
Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call a
physician immediately. In case of eye contact, immediately
flush thoroughly with water and call a physician.
In case of skin contact, wash thoroughly.

Safe compounding and use are your responsibility.

Storage

After cleaning with Steve's Squeeze and rinsing with mineral spirits, I
apply Steve's Squeeze with Liquid Alox for storage. I wear gloves to avoid
fingerprints, and wrap the gun in a polyethylene plastic wrap, one-gallon
plastic bags work well for pistols and revolvers, kitchen garbage bags for
rifles. This prevents removing the coating if you place the gun in a gun
case and prevents accidental fingerprints when you handle the gun. I put the
gun in the plastic bag while still wet, the solvents evaporate through the
plastic and the gun is dry the next time it is used.

For long term (decades) storage of firearms and ferrous metals, Cosmoline
has long been the gold standard. For an easy to use replacement for
Cosmoline, I mix Lee Liquid Alox with an equal amount of deodorized mineral
spirits and brush it onto the gun. Submerged complex parts like trigger
assemblies and drip-dry. The same plastic bag system works for long-term
storage. Heavy plastic bags specifically made for firearms storage are
available, and may be better in extreme conditions.

It is easy to remove dried Lee Liquid Alox with mineral spirits or any of
the spray solvents like carburetor or brake cleaner. Immediately coat the
gun with Steve's Squeeze, to prevent rust.

You are free to copy this article provided you send it in its entirety.

Steve Hurst

M98 bore cleaner (same guys making GS Custom bullets as far as I know), should be available on the net somewhere. M98 cleans copper and nitro fouling and is not harsh on the barrel. Neutralize by simply pushing a patch or two damped with water through the barrel. The other cleaner I use is Bore Tech carbon and Copper cleaner. I could not really tell that Bore Tech worked better and they M98 stuff is pretty cheap in South-Africa.

http://www.gscustomusa.com/products.html

Pieter

+1 on this. Bore tech also make a "proof positive" jag that works well. I learned this the hard way (2 days worth of blue patches)!

Wipeout.

Wipeout, Patchout, Hoppe's Elite Copper Terminator, and Sweet's are all good for cooper removal. #9 still works, it's just slow. You need to be careful with Sweets or Copper Terminator to not leave them in the bore too long or get them on most stock finishes and some plastics. Kroil seems to help with lead deposits. Butch's doesn't do anything that I can tell except doing a fair job with carbon deposits. I haven't had a chance to try Bore Tech.