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I've been shooting a swift since the 70's,and I have found them to be a little particular as to loads. But once you find it they usually are tack drivers. I shot IMR4064 and a 55 Grain Ballistic Tip for 20 years, till I finally had to rebarrel. When the rifle came back to me, it didn't like 4064 at all, but loved 38 grains of RL15 and a 55 Ballistic tip. 3 shot bug hole groups. I wish you luck. Oh BTW, I neck size all my Swift brass.

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Tryed three scopes not bases it gas been recrowned by Remington stripped all copper

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How are the case lengths? The swift is bad for growing cases. Unless using an X-die I have to trim after every one or two shots (when FL sizing).

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Might want to have a look with bore scope. I have rebarreled a lot of like new rifles that were shot a lot..

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I usually can fire my cases 5 times before anything even trims off

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Originally Posted by Dudley220
I usually can fire my cases 5 times before anything even trims off


So it takes five firings before your brass grows past the max case length, which you then shorten with your case trimmer? Am I reading your statement correctly?

Because if the cases are somehow trimming themselves, you've got other problems. Like ghosts or something.


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PG, nothing so far that he's said is indicative of what his results are. On one hand it sounds to be throated. 80 thou under not shooting makes some semblance of reason, 80 thou over should be a jam load with it hardly seated in the case and should shoot . Number of firings before trim is kind of normal. Nothing to lead you to the ROOT of the problem.



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I have only had to trim a few after four firings I have a few that won't hold a bullet tho seems odd so I full length sized them after sizing there the same 224 bullet slides in and out no tension it hornady brass neck thickness measures the same with a mic to my skills anyway I'm not really experienced with reloading but I have loaded my share and built my share of motors so I know how to use the tools And am good with my hands I check the lengths with my Lee trim gage after every firing so I know bout the trimming I tryed full length sizing this time case I have neck sized all in the past like I said before I tryed 10 different factory loads before hand loading none of witch shot well ether my 223 Remington was similar but not as bad of groups now I have handloaded to a quarter size groups with CFE 223 and 40 grain v maxs

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I have attached 3 file the first is the target I got back with the gun from Remington saying the gun shoots the second it one of my average groups around 3800 with a 52 hpbt sierra matchking the next is if I slow it down to 3600 all at 100 yards I have made some loads like you guys have said I think I can walk to the target bench so I I may try them tomorrow trying 50 vmaxs 53 vmaxs 50 nosler bt 50 nosler shots and a 50 midsouth ballistic tip boat tail loaded with 4831 4895 varget 4320 and 380 I think a few of each to test

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Abandon the load work up for now and look at mechanical problems.

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I am trying a new scope mounts and rings also

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Good call.

Bed it. Try it free floated and with tip pressure.

Check the issues I mentioned previously. Also make sure the bolt handle isn't hitting the stock.

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Well I tryed today and had good success with a couple new bullets and full length sizing may have something to do with it I think I might buy a better neck sizer what kinda is good for the price I'm not a benchrest shooter but want a quality product I was looking at redding and rcbs I have a Lee and well it works but that could have been some of my problem thanks for all your in put had a good group with a medium load of varget and 50 v max but best with some nosler shots bulk bullets and midsouth black tips all 50 grain tryed 53 vmax some of the worst groups I've shot with the gun like 3 to 5 inch lol I think the powders were 4895 and 4831 anyway lyaman I don't think makes a neck sizer for a swift thanks

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Stick with full length sizing dies.

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Those remingtons will really shoot. You have a mechanical issue somewhere....take that to the bank

XYZ SCOPE COMPANY made a bunch of screws that were too long in a short run a few years back. Take the front screw out in the forward most part of the base and check the bottom of the screws. If that screw touches the barrel tennon, then the accuracy is gone. If the screw is touching the rifling, it will be all too obvious with the has marks on the bottom of the screw.

Bed the rifle, adjust the trigger, freefloat the barrel, and make sure the magazine box is not pressing up on the center of the action before you ever fire another shot.

When the action is out of the stock, look at the area where the trigger is in the stock. If one of the cross pins that holds the trigger in is pressing into the stock, accuracy is gone.

The following loads are typical loads that work in the Swift:

44.0-44.5g of AA2700 with a 50g Nosler

38g of IMR 4064, 50-52g what evers

39g+ of H380 with 50-55g what evers

One thing that you should pay special attention to, chamfer your case mouths deep, you do not just want to deburr the cases.

Pay special attention to the pressure needed to seat the bullets. Swift cases are thick, work hardening can make pressures spike from one case to another. Mark the cases that have bullets that take a lot of effort to seat(different from the others). The last swift that I had, the cases work hardened so fast that the brass was being shaved off buy the case mouth even though I had a deep chamfer on the case mouths...bullets were very HARD to seat.

If you can, learn to anneal cases.

Lube the inside of your necks before you run them through the F.L. sizer, you will feel a lot less drag from the expander ball.

Bushing dies, body dies, collet dies are all a great thing.

You need to determine just how much freebore you have in your rifle by using an ogive gage used in conjunction with a split neck case or a Hornady comparator. If you find that you have a ton of freebore, then your barrel may have a lot of wear on it, or the throat was just cut long.

When I had a lot of rounds on my 220 swifts, I first went to the sierra 55g Semi point which were as accurate as Burger 52's, then went with the Sierra 63g as the throat got even longer. Not many will elect for this option but when money is tight, you are backed in a corner. As long as the barrel is accurate, save your money for a new gun or replacement barrel. It may break your heart, but a brand new SS 22/250 can be found for about $50, and a gun smith can screw it on your rifle for about another $50 or so. I have never seen a Remington take off Swift barrel for sale, but you have a lot of homework to do before you cross that bridge.

You are driving yourself crazy trying too many components at one time. Stick with one set of components and work through it. The way you are reloading is like you are throwing darts at a dart board. For instance, stick with the Sierra 52, and one powder(one that has been mentioned in this thread by some of the swift shooters), after you have determined the distance to the lands. If you determine that your throat is long, then I would refer you to my experience with the Serra 55 and 63g semi points...they are unreal accurate with IMR 4350. With these two bullets, you can get them up close to the lands, once again.

No one has even mentioned cleaning techniques, I hope that you have good bronze bristle brushes and a good copper solvent. If you have a barrel full of copper, all hopes of great groups are gone. In a darkened room, look in the end of the muzzle with a small flashlight, copper will be very evident if there is any.

Best wishes on your knee, this is all a great tool for you to learn on!

Last edited by keith; 04/20/14.
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I'm new on this forum, but not on others. I've been shooting a 220 since the 80's, and I've spent plenty of time looking for the best loads. And..it seems like keith and I have had about the same experiences in going to the 63 gr Sierra SMP when the throat got a bit further away. That bullet always shot great in my rifle. When the barrel throat managed to creep further away I had a new barrel put on it. The favorite load of the old barrel was 38.5 grains of IMR4064 behind a 55 gr Nosler SBBT and then the 55 gr Nosler Ballistic Tip. I got that load from an old Gun Digest. It said that any Swift ever made was golden with that load. I tried it, and yes it was. Then with the new barrel, after some shooting, I found that the same load was terrific in the new barrel, and it still is. I just wish I could also shoot the 60 gr Nosler Partition in the rifle. It'll almost stabilize, but not quite.

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I shoot Ruger mk 2 since 2005 55 gr bts always use h 380 or 4064. Neck size and f l when needed 6X24 scope 38 grs seems to do the job. Both powders shoot the same small groups

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