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tzone Offline OP
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Has anyone done it? How did it go? I'm fairly handy, general construction knowledge, finished my basement, that sort of stuff.

Menards has a DIY kit of it on sale. I have a few spots I'd like to put it some of it. One is around the sill plate in the basement, another is under the stairs in the basement to quiet things up. How well does it work for a sound barrier?


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I would like to apply it to the underside of my cargo trailer.


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Expensive.


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I'm currently remodeling an old farm house. I looked at every type of spray insulation. I priced the dyi kits and a contractor. Most dyi kits do limited square ft. The contractor is coming Monday. The sill plate is about $200 for a 34x26 house.

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Paid a contractor friend of mine $3500 to do my roof and it was the best, cheapest, $3500 I've ever spent. $350 monthly power bills dropped to an average of $95! Doesn't take long to pay for itself like that!


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I built my home in '06 and subcontracted with a spray foam insulator.
There was only one in north Idaho at the time and it was expensive, but I was resigned to use the product.
I worked with the crew to cut costs per the agreement I had with the contractor.

The stuff is unbelievable, we practically heat our vaulted home with a candle.

When a neighbor came over and saw the scarped, smooth, spayed-in walls before drywall, he was so impressed he started a local company to apply the product.


We used icynene which is a very safe product. It can burn and not give off the noxious fumes of the earlier sprayed-in products. It is the way to go. Best thing we ever did with our build.

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I had my gun shop sprayed and a thunderstorm has to get overhead before one can hear it.

I heat it with a small electric heater and a 1 room air conditioner.

If i had the funds handy i would have the siding off the north side of the house and sprayed before putting on new.

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Tip--Have everything clean and prepared, beforehand, so you can use the whole kit up, at once. Don't dick around--apply it and move on.


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tzone Offline OP
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Originally Posted by jdm953
Expensive.


Yeah, it is. How far does it go?


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tzone Offline OP
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Originally Posted by keystoneben
I'm currently remodeling an old farm house. I looked at every type of spray insulation. I priced the dyi kits and a contractor. Most dyi kits do limited square ft. The contractor is coming Monday. The sill plate is about $200 for a 34x26 house.


Well this kit is $300. I'll have to find out how much it covers.


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tzone,
Works great.
3 tricks CLEAN PREPPED AND WARM.
As Pal said have all ready, so you do not stop and go, keep the gun pointed down at all times as to not cross contaminate the 2 iso and resin. Dump the mixing chamber before it has time to foam into the gun.
easy.
One brand.

http://building.dow.com/na/en/products/insulation/frothpakfs.htm

The higher the density the higher the r value to a point. The link is to 1.75# 3# has higher r-value
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In for later. I need to do my sill as well


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Originally Posted by charleeontop
...The higher the density the higher the r value to a point...


Pretty sure that R value goes down as density goes up.


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There is a 600 dollar kit that covers 600 sq.ft. 1" thick. The smaller one Menards has cover 200 sq.ft. I am almost positive of the numbers cause I am asked quite a bit about foam. I have 4" foam in my walls in my house and the sills in my basement. It makes the house very quiet and efficient. I think half my heat loss is through our windows.


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Just make sure you wear a full tyvek suite, gloves etc as that is tenacious snot +p+ that sticks to everything and is a beotch to get off your skin.

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I did quite a bit of research on this very subject some years back. After talking to many people on a homesteading website I belong to, the general consensus was there are definite "tricks" to its application. The most obvious and reoccurring tip was to slightly warm the tank during application. I cannot remember for the life of me what that temp. was, but it really improved the amount of coverage out of a given tank.


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getting it warm depends on how warm it is where you are.

Here in TX it really isn't an issue.

IF you are spraying to stay inside a stud cavity thin light coats and as even as you can so when you have to trim it back, its not overly thick. Hard to describe.

In rafters in the attic, just spray it on.

The advice of toss away clothes is spot on. Shoes, cover the head, respirator, eye protection, gloves, tyvek suit etc...

The couple of DIY kits I"ve gotten from a local supplier have worked just fine. A bit higher than the home depot kits but probably a bit better.

Have not done my house, but have R50 in the attic already. But sure would like to do the rafters too... anythign to cut down the damn heat.


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PS in a pro done attic space, thats not AC'd in Texas summer, the attic cavity is generally 135 plus. Up to 150ish.

Walk into an attic thats sprayed, and do an inspection and I rarely break into a sweat. The temps are generally around 85 ish max that I've seen.

I have not been in one though when its been 115 plus in teh shade. But have been in a number when its 105 106 or so.


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Originally Posted by rost495
getting it warm depends on how warm it is where you are.

Here in TX it really isn't an issue.

IF you are spraying to stay inside a stud cavity thin light coats and as even as you can so when you have to trim it back, its not overly thick. Hard to describe.

In rafters in the attic, just spray it on.

The advice of toss away clothes is spot on. Shoes, cover the head, respirator, eye protection, gloves, tyvek suit etc...

The couple of DIY kits I"ve gotten from a local supplier have worked just fine. A bit higher than the home depot kits but probably a bit better.

Have not done my house, but have R50 in the attic already. But sure would like to do the rafters too... anythign to cut down the damn heat.


Sounds like a contractor would be easier....and maybe even cheaper in the long run...


The deer hunter does not notice the mountains

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There sure are a lot of America haters that want to live here...



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There are two basic types, Open Cell and Closed Cell. There is a significant difference in quality and required thickness.

Closed Cell is considered a Vapor Barrier, Open Cell is not.

IMO Closed Cell is a much better product, it is also more $$$.


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