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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84
Campfire Greenhorn
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OP
Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84 |
I just ordered my first semi inlet stock but I don't really have many woodworking tools. Can someone give me a list of the basic tools I will need. I'm on a budget so I only plan on buying the tools that I truly need at first.
The only tool that I have found that I think I should definitely get is a Nicholson #50 rasp. So what else do I absolutely need to finish my first stock?
Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84
Campfire Greenhorn
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OP
Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84 |
Also does anyone know of any good places to get things like sling studs, grip caps, ebony blocks for the tip, and recoil pads/butt plates. I like the looks of the older classic custom rifles so I would like to get hardware that isn't modern plastic stuff.
thanks again
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,016 |
Brownell's is your huckleberry. Inlet-ting hand screws. Barrel channel rasp and some chisels jump to mind.
Democracy is not freedom. Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to eat for lunch. Freedom comes from the recognition of certain rights which may not be taken, not even by a 99% vote. *Marvin Simkin* L.A. Times (1992)
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,074 |
The Nicholson rasp was a wise decision. Beyond that a Tru-line barrel channel tool is indispensable. A fair selection of good paring chisels, small-ish gouges and a basic set of wood carving chisels to get into the nooks and crannies. If you don't have sharpening stones, now is the time to get them and learn how to use them. I think that area is one where most self taught beginners lack in.
Read a good book on stock making. A couple hours spent doing that will pay dividends.
For finishing, a good semi-hard/flexible sanding block is almost a necessity in order to keep the surfaces from getting wavy. Don't forget the inletting black (a tube of lipstick will do in a pinch).
Probably the most important tool is the one between your ears. Go sloooowly and carefully. Stop when you get fatigued because that is the time most mistakes are made.
I can't imagine doing something like that without a good sturdy vise and work surface, although I know people who have managed without them. Good light to work by is a big big plus.
Start out with what tools you think you'll need and add tools as you come upon their need. Better to wait a couple days for the postman than to forge ahead and get frustrated. That'll help prevent acquiring a pile of stuff you won't use, too.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,578
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,578 |
Inletting black.
Small machinists square
12" steel ruler that is straight
A copy of Westbrook's Professional Stockmaking, if you can find it for a decent price.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84
Campfire Greenhorn
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OP
Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84 |
Thanks for the advice everyone.
Are there any particular sized or shaped chisels/gouges that I should get. It seems like there are a million different ones and I'm not quite sure what a good starting point is.
Also will I need anything else to do the shaping of the stock? If so what size and kind of files or rasps?
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,061 |
Awww, just grunge it out with a Dremel... Then glass the gaps... Just kidding... DF
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,074 |
For shaping the exterior, I would use the rasp you have for the bear's share of the work. Not knowing what you are starting with or the style of the stock I am loathe to recommend anything beyond that, nor am I familiar with your skills and familiarity with hand tools. I know that for myself, a rasp, rat tail file, plenty of sandpaper from 80x down to at least 400x, and a selection of dowels, blocks and pads to wrap the paper onto would allow me to work down an average bolt action stock. If the goal is to incorporate a schnabel and some minor sculpting around the action, then some chisels will be needed too. What style of butt plate/pad and grip cap are we talking? Are you beginning to see why there are a lot of variables that prevent a specific recommendation of tools? Yet another reason to research publications on the subject. When you have a clear concept of the task at hand, then set about gathering tools.
One thing else I'll say is don't be bashful about removing wood. Most newbies shy from exposing the svelte stock that is lurking inside the typical pre-turned blank, resulting in a clubby but functional end product. If you don't have an artist's eye for spacial proportions- get one!
Last edited by gnoahhh; 07/02/14.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 29,818
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 29,818 |
In a variety of sizes: chisels, gouges, rasps, planes, crossing files, flat and barrel channel scrapers, flat and round sanding blocks, and a level, wood working vice, chain saw file, straight edge, and inletting black/brush.
Last, Wesbrooks Professional Stockmaking book and a ton of patience.
If not in a hurry, Ebay and flea markets could be your friends.
Last edited by 1minute; 07/03/14.
1Minute
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Joined: Jan 2012
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Campfire Greenhorn
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Campfire Greenhorn
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84 |
gnoahhh I am pretty new to working on stocks, other than simply refinishing them. The stock is from richard microfit and is a #102 classic which I'll probably end up putting a pachmayr grind to fit pad on. I currently have wesbrooks professional stockmaking book, which I haven't read completely yet, but from what I have read it seems like he has a lot of different tools, which is why I was wondering what the basics were that I would need to get started with. Will the nicholson #50 leave the wood smooth enough to go straight to sanding, or will I need a finer file/rasp?
I definitely get what you are saying about removing enough wood though. I like the looks and the feel of stocks that are trimmed down.
Thanks for the help everyone.
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,953 |
Get a great stock vice to hold stock while working. Save,s a trip to the emergency room because your chisel slipped and went in your wrist!
kk alaska
Alaska 7 months of winter then 5 months of tourists
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,074
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,074 |
gnoahhh I am pretty new to working on stocks, other than simply refinishing them. The stock is from richard microfit and is a #102 classic which I'll probably end up putting a pachmayr grind to fit pad on. I currently have wesbrooks professional stockmaking book, which I haven't read completely yet, but from what I have read it seems like he has a lot of different tools, which is why I was wondering what the basics were that I would need to get started with. Will the nicholson #50 leave the wood smooth enough to go straight to sanding, or will I need a finer file/rasp?
I definitely get what you are saying about removing enough wood though. I like the looks and the feel of stocks that are trimmed down.
Thanks for the help everyone. Yes, the Nicholson rasp will leave a surface that allows going straight to sanding, and removes material like you're melting ice with a blowtorch.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,061
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,061 |
Get a great stock vice to hold stock while working. Save,s a trip to the emergency room because your chisel slipped and went in your wrist! Here's my vice. You can get the same thing from Brownells for under $300, or a Chinese knock off like this one for just a fraction of that. I bought rubber backed aluminum vice pads, drilled and tapped to fit the vice. I use it constantly to clean rifles, work on a stock, etc. And I don't have to worry about scratching anything. DF
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 50,626 |
gnoahhh I am pretty new to working on stocks, other than simply refinishing them. The stock is from richard microfit and is a #102 classic which I'll probably end up putting a pachmayr grind to fit pad on. I currently have wesbrooks professional stockmaking book, which I haven't read completely yet, but from what I have read it seems like he has a lot of different tools, which is why I was wondering what the basics were that I would need to get started with. Will the nicholson #50 leave the wood smooth enough to go straight to sanding, or will I need a finer file/rasp?
I definitely get what you are saying about removing enough wood though. I like the looks and the feel of stocks that are trimmed down.
Thanks for the help everyone. Yes, the Nicholson rasp will leave a surface that allows going straight to sanding, and removes material like you're melting ice with a blowtorch. I sure cannot go from rasp to sandpaper... I would use at least two smoothing files to from the 50 to sandpaper and a Disston Abrader before the files (after the rasp.)
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,839
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,839 |
Awww, just grunge it out with a Dremel... Then glass the gaps... Just kidding... DF Oh great. Now my secret is out. Thanks a lot DF.
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,061
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,061 |
Awww, just grunge it out with a Dremel... Then glass the gaps... Just kidding... DF Oh great. Now my secret is out. Thanks a lot DF.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,361
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,361 |
I use the Gunline barrel bedding tools.
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.-- Edward John Phelps
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Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 955 |
One of the first assignments we had when I went to gunsmiths school in 1952 was we were required to forge and shape all our wood working gouges,chisels and scrapers. Don't remember the actual number but it was quite a few in various sizes. We made our own barrel rasp at that time also. Those tools have stood up for over 60 years with probably twice the amount added over the years. One of my favorite suppliers in days past was Frank Mittermier (sp) who marketed a line of German wood tools to the gunsmith trade that was excellent. You will never have a complete set and will always be looking for exactly the right tool for the job at hand. All that said you can do a good job on a semi inlet with a Millers Falls Carving tool set Model 107c-6 piece and a couple of cabinet rasps. I have found a horseshoe rasp to be handy. Everything you need is quite probably in Brownells catalog.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 84
Campfire Greenhorn
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OP
Campfire Greenhorn
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Posts: 84 |
Great! Thanks for all the help everyone. Now I just have to wait for the stock to get here.
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,061
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 37,061 |
+1 on the Brownell catalog.
Their tech guys are awesome, give them a call with questions.
DF
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