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Does this mean getting a registered PE to put his seal on it?

That's unfortunate,however,you should try to get an industrial grade epoxy finish for little, or no extra cost out of the deal,that could be to your advantage in the long run.if it is purely visual thing, no structural issues, you may be very pleased with the final result.very frustrating now though.
I think all will be fine in the long run.
Get an engineer to sign off and move on.
good luck

I think we'll be ok. (heating)

I've observed the various theories and practices with underfloor heating/slabs over the years.

The most popular method (used to be) to burry your heating coils, be it elect or water tubing, in a bed of sand below the concrete slab.

the theory was to create more storage, more of a heat bank to help deal with the off peak rate effects.

back then a lot of the installs also had no insulation around the outside or underneath.

the perimeter insulation came first, then people started putting insulation under the sand as well. At the same time, others were choosing to put the heating coils inside of the concrete and they too evolved from no insulation to partial and then full.

There are still to this day 2 separate camps of thought on which way is best, in the sand or in the cement. and within those camps there are still various theories on the insulation part of the install.



So, the way I see it, I just have a little more heat storage with 2 more inches of slab. I am still confident in the system because of the foam insulation that my slab is poured into basically like a mold.

Should be no problem with heating, you just have a bigger thermal mass which should keep the temperature more constant, not a bad thing.

I'm not a civil engineer, but I'd hope the cap would have some sort of reinforcing mesh in it. There are some amazing adhesives out there, so bonding probably won't be an issue, I'd just be concerned with the thin (for concrete) 2" cap cracking down the road, hence the reinforcing mesh.

On the up side, you now have a thicker slab which for mounting your lift and other equipment which is never a bad thing. But I'd suggest looking at chemical anchors for the lift vs. the typical wedge anchors just to seal holes and help further bond the two layers together.

3# fiber mesh per yd is part of the mix design for this 2" cap. I will have the written mix design soon, which I will retain for my records.

Please explain chemical anchors? I am unfamiliar?

Instead of your typical wedge stud you either put in a chemical capsule that is mixed when you drive the threaded rod into the capsule.



Or you use a schoocum dual caulking gun to mix/shoot the epoxy/goop mix into the hole and then set the rod.

ok, does the rod not have any mechanical anchoring (wedge/expansion) features with this method?

The rod is glued into the concrete, entirely a chemical bond. That said they are typically much stronger than a mechanical fastener as the load is spread along the entire length of the threaded rod vs. concentrated at the mechanical wedge. Also the rod is sealed by the glue so no issues of water getting in around the fastener and causing it to corrode. The two keys are properly cleaning the hole of the dust after drilling and making sure the adhesive use by date hasn't expired.

I've used them for anchors for rock climbing. A bit of a bugger to set on a cliff and wait for the adhesive to cure which is why I rarely use them, but with a ss rod they'll pretty much last until the rock has eroded around them.

If they screwed up the "fix", then you'd really have to be a dick to get things right.

Get it in writing and both parties know what to expect.

Good luck!

The bottom Hilti picture is what we use almost exclusivly on anything we need to anchor, and it's written into the specs as such.

Alright Tom, that's the way I'll do it then.

The building starts tomorrow (as in walls and such)


I'm placing a large (by my standards) order today for things like my 2 post hoist, tons of shop tools ranging from lenco panel spotter with a couple handy attachments to old school drum brake tools. It's a good list, ball joint service set, coil spring compressor kit, torque wrench, big industrial shop vac, a bunch of new hutchins sanders, flammable storage cabinet, a big media blast cabinet, 25 ton press, shop vice, drill press, bench grinder, go-jack wheel dolly set, body panel work stands, drill bit sets, deep vice grip clamps, various pullers... blah, blah, blah, so on and so forth... my head is spinning... lol!



Now wtf am I going to do? I wont have any excuses for not being able to get anything done any more!

LMAO!

I believe I made comment to you about schitt happening in an avalanche!!

so true.

and it's about damn time!

Holeee! You should put all that on a Cabelas card and get points up the ying yang!

So is your bank account.. Holy Northern Tool, Batman....

We'll have to change his name to Northern_Tool instead of Northern_Dave.

Now it's exciting. Big Jelly's suggestion is a good one if you don't havea a business account yet!

Wishing u the very best Dave

Hilti hit is what is spected for bridge reconstruction when old conc is chipped off and new rebar is inserted to change configuration of pilings and such. good stuff.

norm

What lift did you decide on?