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Thought about getting an eye cup for the Stevens 44's Lyman rear sight. Looked at the threads and realized the ring is dinged

[Linked Image]

Anyone successfully fix one of these before? Seems like it would be hard to straighten and leave the threads usable. Or should I just get a new sight?


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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I would give Alan Harton a call. He will fix it and do it right. Tell him Boxhead sent you.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sin...urceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8


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That from that little scrap you got into on that buf hunt down in the Comancheria? Keep it like it is and tell the tale.

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I don't think I would want to tell people I was hunting Bufflers with a .25-20 smile


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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It's OK, we all started out cook pot hunters.

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Piece of cake Tex, get the proper sized flat faced brass punch, bevel a sharp 90* shoulder on the very leading edge, gently tap it into the sight opening her back up, will take a bit of doing but you can do it with patience.

Then run the proper threaded bottom hole tap in it to chase and clean the threads.


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Well, to resurrect the thread, Cross offered to fix the sight, so I sent to him, and he tig'd in a new threaded eye. The results are damn impressive.

[Linked Image]

And also made two nice eye cups, threaded to match the eye.

[Linked Image]

So the sight is now successfully repaired. I can heartily recommend his work smile All I need to do now is figure out what the rifle would like to shoot grin


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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Resurrection is good. Had my Stevens 44 out for a stroll today for the first time. It exhibited some of the characteristics of the B29 that Mule Deer wrote about years ago, namely that I did not have the ability to crank elevation down sufficiently to use the vernier at 50 yards. I faked it anyway.

.25-20 SS, Bertram brass, WW SRP, Ideal 257283, 30:1 Alloy, SPG Lube, .060" compression and a .030" Walters Veg Wad, 19.0 Gr. Swiss 1.5 FG. The chambered cartridge engraves the driving band completely. No Crimp, it will leave the bullet in the barrel if the case is removed. Nominal velocity in the range of 1350-1400 fps or so I've been led to believe.

8 shots into a cluster of 1.4 X 2.1". First BP cartridge I've loaded and shot, learned a whole lot of stuff as a result and am looking forward to the 100 yard line.

Cross did some nice work right there!

I've heard rumors that SR4759 does some nice stuff for the SS. I pass that along just in case you wear leopard print thongs etc.

Last edited by DigitalDan; 10/19/14.

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Beautiful work! I would expect nothing less with Greg's hands on the project.

Ed


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Originally Posted by DigitalDan
Resurrection is good. Had my Stevens 44 out for a stroll today for the first time. It exhibited some of the characteristics of the B29 that Mule Deer wrote about years ago, namely that I did not have the ability to crank elevation down sufficiently to use the vernier at 50 yards. I faked it anyway.

.25-20 SS, Bertram brass, WW SRP, Ideal 257283, 30:1 Alloy, SPG Lube, .060" compression and a .030" Walters Veg Wad, 19.0 Gr. Swiss 1.5 FG. The chambered cartridge engraves the driving band completely. No Crimp, it will leave the bullet in the barrel if the case is removed. Nominal velocity in the range of 1350-1400 fps or so I've been led to believe.

8 shots into a cluster of 1.4 X 2.1". First BP cartridge I've loaded and shot, learned a whole lot of stuff as a result and am looking forward to the 100 yard line.

Cross did some nice work right there!

I've heard rumors that SR4759 does some nice stuff for the SS. I pass that along just in case you wear leopard print thongs etc.


The closest I get to Leopard print thongs is when I torture Ingwe with pics of my #1 in .270 smirk Unless a petite brunette wimmin-type comes along, then I might offer to buy her one... grin

This Stevens is a .25-20 Winchester - the barrel was relined when the rifle was restored, and slugs .2568. Bullets are 85gr Meister Cast and are sized .2585. So far I have tried Trail Boss and 2400, with so so results. Need to investigate further.


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How much 2400?

My opinion FWIW, the Meister alloy is harder than required for the .25-20 Win.


I am..........disturbed.

Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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5.8gr, which came from one recommendation. There's a long-running thread at Marlinowners.com. In this Stevens it was running about 1380 fps.


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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I agree,those things are as hard as a whore's heart,... and that FIREPROOF blue chit that they "lube" em' with seems to remain on the bullet all the way to the target, instead of shedding in the bore.

This was one of those "wait for a light to go on" kinda' jobs,...I stared at the thing for DAYS, and finally got an inkling.

* The cylindrical outer "ring was turned out of a length of old Marlin Micro Groove barrel, and threaded ( 1/4 - 40 TPI) JUST deep enough so's the little threaded "bush" would jam up into the unfinished taper. The bush was bored, and a little "break off groove" can be seen where it meets the unthreaded minor diameter. Id venture the wall thickness under that groove there was about .007" max. With the cylinder held firm in the lathe chuck, the "Bush" was threaded in, and the shank broke off as intended. The ring was than parted off, and the rear end of the bush struck one major (and concentric lick, effectively swaging it into place. The ring was swapped around in the chuck, indicated, final bored, and than counterbored with an end cuttting mill, leaving about a .055" thick "Web" for the new apertures to seat, and align against. The counterbore is CRITICAL to letting lots of light get into the aperture's tunnel, for clearer viewing.

Sound simple ?

[Linked Image]

It wasn't, and the closer you get to finishing a part like this, the more fragile it becomes, and that much easier to screw up.

[Linked Image]

Had to build a little chill block alignment fixture. God bless old chunks of buss bar !

[Linked Image]

Those are not file marks, on the finished welded, filed, buffed,and cherried out ring,... Merely fingerprints in the file chalk dust.

[Linked Image]

I "Sleeved" couple of existing apertures that I had in stock up to 1/4-40,....one a .060", the other a .070" and will wait for Patrick's call out on whether he wants a larger or smaller "Sunday go to meeting" piece like the one on the left here below.I think the touch of brass and the rubber O-ring are a nice touch, but can knurl the new one if he so requests.

[Linked Image]

Cheers !

GTC



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Cavemen can't do it. laugh



I am..........disturbed.

Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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Incredible. Damn nice work.


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Tex, a thought or two on how it shoots. There is only a very small difference between the Winchester version and the original SS version insofar as case capacity is concerned. That said, the general ballistic performance is close as are the similarities of loading cast bullets. I won't be shooting jacketed rounds in mine due to the gun's years, but you do have that option. If you stick with lead you can run very soft alloys, ie 30:1 or there abouts; or you can do a little harder to no ill effect.

The beauty of the Stevens action however is it's camming power when closing the action. If inclined you can seat a little long and the bullet will engrave with little resistance into the lead/rifling.

Having toyed (shamelessly) with the Winchester variant in an old lever gun, I found somewhat quickly that harder alloys are doodoo, but that somewhat stronger loads made it hum. The gun was relined due to a moonscape surface in the original. I shot both Lyman 257312 and Ideal 257283 bullets successfully with hardness ranging from 12 to 8 respectfully.

That gun defined successful as 1.2" at 50 yards for 10 shots, elbow rest. It has a tang sight very much like the one your own sports and a 14" twist. Favorite charge is 6.0 grains of 2400, SRP and a very mild crimp. Where it got a little odd for my feeble brain was it's response to different lubes. The Ideal bullet, conventionally lubed shoots ho-hum on the best of days with SMOKELESS powder.

Lee ALOX on the other hand is just the opposite. (I hope they don't let that go to their head). The Lyman bullet behaved in similar fashion. Both lagged in accuracy until the velocity got up around the 1300 fps level or a bit higher, and I started using LLA for lube. I cut ALOX about 10% by volume with mineral spirits and tumble lube, leaving a very thin coat, almost like a coffee stain in appearance. I also dust the bullets with motor mica to preclude them gumming up the seating die. Haven't run the loads over the Chrony yet. Both shot better with more conventional powder as opposed to Trail Boss.

Short version, try softer bullets, engage the rifling a bit when chambering the round and put a wee bit more powder in the hole.

Some of this you likely already know, hope something clicks for you.


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Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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Thanks!


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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Quote
The beauty of the Stevens action however is it's camming power when closing the action. If inclined you can seat a little long and the bullet will engrave with little resistance into the lead/rifling.


Indeed, that is a VERY likeable feature, and the 44s have a special place in my heart.

Not to be a wet blanket, but I'd encourage ya'll with perfectly rebuilt 44s to not over do the "Camming Power" bit, with harder bullets. I've no doubt that your rigs are probably re-fitted with one of Wisners' EXCELLENT replacement links, or have had their originals tweeked into proper adjustment. Either one CAN be STRETCHED, if that lever is whaled on hard enough, one than will suffer the heartbreak of "Lever droop", and all of it's attendant shame.

When time allows I'll put up the photos (gotta FIND em') and the text from an article on the Stevens 44 I wrote some years back, Titled "The Missing Link". Therein one will see the slick way one can re-set the dimensions of a worn or STRETCHED original link, with a hacksaw and a TIG or Oxy welding rig.

Better yet the way to dismount the link, and install it upside down / backwards so that one actually has "The Missing Link". See, an old boy who'd shot against em' at Perry years back (1950s) INSISTED that those die hards still shooting 44s had them set up to remain at full cock after closing the action.I would have trusted the old boy with my life, and his memory was SHARP, so I went lookin'. I assumed one needed a replacement PART. Nobody I spoke to for 5-6 years knew a thing about a "special" link used in competition rifles, and it wasn't 'til I bought a flea market 44 clunker that actually demonstrated this function that I figured things out. I stripped the block/ link/ lever assy out of it, and lay it beside a "Normal" 44 assy.

There it was ! EUREKA, I had found it. The standard link is simply swapped around from the regular position to a peculiar and rather "Why didn't I try that" position. Depending on individual sear notch geometries (and whether they've already been tweeked),...one may have to so a bit of grinding and stoning, or build up with a dab of weld to get everything holding it's mouth right. I immersion case harden the PISS outta' both new replicas and originals, once they are fitted, as both are a bit soft, as delivered.

This is NOT a mod to perform on Youth training rifles, or hard run field rifles either,....but damned sure a boon (and "thumb Saver") to the Competition / Target shooter that's shooting hundreds of rounds a session.

I've got an old "Brown" 44 in the corner that's destined to be relined to .25-20 Win., when I find time, and a decent takeoff 257 barrel to gen up a liner out of.

This thread is a bit of an inspiration in that regard.

GTC


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OK, regarding the heartbreak of unsightly and embarrassing "Lever Droop", Here's a quick look at the mods that can bring a worn, stretched link back into adjustment. Oversized pins should be fitted, if required,...but are not completely mandatory.

This repair is particularly applicable to relines that are not going to see a "Set Back", which makes for a real PITA requiring retaining screw relocation and deepening what may be a perfectly good extractor cut. Cutting a 44 or 44 1/2 small bore extractor cut PROPERLY requires a milling vice in a lathe, and a fairly substantial angle plate / fixture holding it. This cut CANNOT be done (properly) in a knee mill.

Some pics of the repair.

Remember,....We want to move the pin holes APART

[Linked Image]

With the link "spread", and VERY lightly tacked, assemble and test for that desirable mild "Snap" as the lever travels it's last 1/4 inch to hitting the tang.

[Linked Image]

Once you've got things about where you want em' weld the thing off, and after final fitting and polishing (not pictured) ....don't forget the Kasinit.

[Linked Image]

Here's a SLICK way to get a fine trigger pull on a hammer that's had it's sear notch cut to deep by Bubba and Co. That's a piece of O-1 drill rod in condition A,...JB welded into a hole cut with a carbide tool. Sneak up on your reduction and polishing this "Stand Off", and enjoy life, when through. Note that all the re-welding, filing, squaring and basic fitment has been finished, and the part Case hardened / Kasinit immersed,...prior to gluing in that pin. Final adjustment is confined to the trigger sear nose.

[Linked Image]


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well, I'm glad to learn I'm not the first person to close the 44 breech on their thumb blush

I found & ordered some .258 bullets that are said to be 20 to 1 alloy, which one reference says will run Brinell 10. We'll give them a whirl.

My 44 bumps the hammer to the "safe" position when opening & closing the action. It does seem a bit stiff at times. I'm guessing it was adjusted during the rifle's restoration. My feeling is it still needs some tuning, especially the extractor, but I have not owned a 44 previously. I can work with it in the meantime during load development. I have a week-old grand nephew, so perhaps both it and the 1915 Favorite will eventually be his. smile


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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