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Originally Posted by jwp475
Originally Posted by gunner500
10-4 EE, and Thanks, just wipe the Colt with EEZOX and put it in it's holster, just went and checked it, no rust, I may start leaving them un-holstered.


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Originally Posted by gunner500
Any particular reason for not holstering one 284?


I'm not 284 but I'll give you some reasons based on the experiences of an acquaintance of mine who has been a leather smith for well over forty years. He repairs and builds shoes and boots, repairs and builds saddles, and makes holsters and other leather products. He has a custom leather shop.

He does not recommend leaving a pistol, revolver, long gun, knife or anything else like that in leather forever. There are many tanning processes for leather and some of those processes play hell with steel and bluing. For example, some of the worse leather he has dealt with has come from Mexico because the Mexican tanning process uses urine in the tanning. That really messes with the leather. On the other hand, some of the best tanned leather for fine products comes out of the British Isles because the British tend to raise their cattle for the leather and their tanning processes tend to produce premium quality leather.

Another area of concern is the dye used in the the leather. There's vegetable based dye, oil based dye, and everything in between. Some dyes are harder on steel and bluing than others.

And last but not least, is the lining or lack thereof. Non-lined holsters really pick up moisture and dirt. Not all linings are created equal either. Some do a very good job of protecting steel and fine bluing while other linings are not much better than an unlined holster.

Sorry I can't do better in answering your question but I do hope this helps somewhat.


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FWIW, the actual "purple" color is called plum, and it's the contrast of two different steel alloys being blued, or on heat-treated vs non heat-treated parts. Older Ruger SAs show plum color too, most commonly on the loading gates, which are made from a different steel that the frame. I've seen it on a few S&W revolvers too. I have also seen it on blued guns that had had welding done on them, and it only showed in the repaired area. Besides, I like purple...


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Originally Posted by gunner500
I have a first gen 4" barreled Colt Trooper in 357 Mag, I can see a bit of the finish turning purple-ish, anyone know why?

I keep it in a holster all the time.



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Can't beat EEZOX for rust prevention, use it on all my guns including the BP ones. Never a rust problem since I started using it about 10 years ago.

The purple change, it just happens, different steels back then, seen many a purple Winchester receiver.


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I'd use it on a parade of skinners.

10-4 T, it stinks, but I love that stuff, guess I'll live with the purple, wouldnt wanna rape it by having it re-blued.



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Originally Posted by derby_dude
Originally Posted by gunner500
Any particular reason for not holstering one 284?


I'm not 284 but I'll give you some reasons based on the experiences of an acquaintance of mine who has been a leather smith for well over forty years. He repairs and builds shoes and boots, repairs and builds saddles, and makes holsters and other leather products. He has a custom leather shop.

He does not recommend leaving a pistol, revolver, long gun, knife or anything else like that in leather forever. There are many tanning processes for leather and some of those processes play hell with steel and bluing. For example, some of the worse leather he has dealt with has come from Mexico because the Mexican tanning process uses urine in the tanning. That really messes with the leather. On the other hand, some of the best tanned leather for fine products comes out of the British Isles because the British tend to raise their cattle for the leather and their tanning processes tend to produce premium quality leather.

Another area of concern is the dye used in the the leather. There's vegetable based dye, oil based dye, and everything in between. Some dyes are harder on steel and bluing than others.

And last but not least, is the lining or lack thereof. Non-lined holsters really pick up moisture and dirt. Not all linings are created equal either. Some do a very good job of protecting steel and fine bluing while other linings are not much better than an unlined holster.

Sorry I can't do better in answering your question but I do hope this helps somewhat.
Thanks for the more chemical oriented rundown on this DD. Interesting.

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grin


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I have a python that has a distinctly purple cylinder release and a slightly purple cylinder. I have one of the 1986 Rem classic .35Whelen that is uniformly purple. I have other guns twice as old with no purple whatever. I thought maybe grain size (a consequence of heat treat) might have moderated how fast the oxides convert in the final boiling water wash and rem/colt tried to speed the process up.

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10-4, every damn Ruger M-77 I've ever had turned purple, of course they are investment cast.


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The Old Model Ruger's purple very well and just have character IMO.


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I had a tang safety varmint Ruger in 220 swift, it was a 71' vintage, the reciever turned a fantastic purple, the Douglas barrel stayed a fine royal blue, I was told it was an investment cast steel reciever and over time they turn. Heck it looked great, I sold it after many thousand rounds for a 59' mod 70 Varminter in swift. v best winpoor

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10-4 Ed, and helluva trade there WP. wink


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I have a Remington classic in 300 win mag.it has the purplish color on bolt and rear half of receiver .I think 1994 not for sure.

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