Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Leupold VX-3 Side Focus Calibration Question

Why are you trying to realign the parallax knob and what are you trying to accomplish?

in fact it says nothing about re-aligning the knob at all.

No kidding.....

Do you "think" you are going to get a LRF reading and dump dope in the erector and then same in the side focus,prior to the view?

PLEASE say "yes".

Laughing!.................

HOW TO SET UP A SCOPE!
This is the only way to do it...

First, screw the eyepiece out (CCW) all the way, until it stops.
If you wear glasses, put them on.
Hold the scope up and look OVER the scope at the sky, and relax your eyes. Then move the scope in front of your eye.
The reticle should look fuzzy
Turn the eyepiece in 1/2 turn, and do the same thing again. You will have to do for a while before the reticle starts to look better. When you start getting close, then turn the eyepiece 1/4 turn each time.
Do this until the reticle is fully sharp and fully BLACK immediately when you look through the scope.
Than back off one turn and do it again to make sure you are in the same place.
Then LOCK the ring on the eyepiece, and leave it alone forever!

Second.
Set the scope down on something solid, where it can see something at a long distance... half a mile of longer is good.
It can be on the rifle, and rested in sand bags at the range... but pick something at least 1000 yds away... even further if possible.
If the scope has an "AO" Adjustable objective, then set it for infinity, and look at the distant object, and move your head from one side to the other, or up and down if you prefer.
If the reticle seems to move, there is parallax.
Change the distance setting and try again... if you are very careful, you can move your eye, and adjust the distance at the same time, seeing which direction gets better.
With front objective adjustments, you can turn them either way without worry... BUT with side adjustment scopes, like the MK4-M3, the M3-LR, or the other LR family of scopes, the adjustment must ALWAYS be made from the infinity end of the dial. Turn the adjustment all the way until it stops (past infinity), and then start turning it in a little at a time, until there is no parallax. If you "overshoot" the proper setting, you can't just turn back a little, you must go back to stop at the end of the dial, and start over again.

While "AO"s dials are locked in place, and if the indicated distance doesn't match the real distance, there's nothing you can do about it... the side focus dials are not locked in place.
Once you have found the setting for infinity on the side focus models, then (CAREFULLY) loosen the screws, and set the dial so that little sideways infinity symbol is lined up with the hash mark, so it is calibrated. You can also make little marks or put on a paper tape for other ranges instead of using the round dots that don't match any range.

Now you can set it to infinity, but remember that you MUST turn the dial all the way past infinity to the stop, EVERY TIME before going from a close range to a longer range.
If you are set for 500 yds, you can go directly to 100 yds, but if you are set for 100 and want to set it to 500, you MUST go all the way back to the stop, and then go to 500.

This is because there is a fair amount of backlash (aka SLOP) in this wheel linkage to the focusing cell, so you can set it only from one direction to make sure the slop is always on one side. The other problem with it is, even if you decided that you wanted to calibrate from the other end... the recoil will push the cell back. SO you must ALWAYS set these dials from the infinity end of their scales.

To make it easy to not have to remember... I always start from the end stop, when I change range, no matter which direction I'm going in... it adds about 0.023 seconds!
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Now... you gots a friend that says to set up a scope a different way???... he don't know doodly-squat about scopes.

The guy at the range said to do it a different way... he don't know either.

You know some guy who's in the Marines says to use your eyepiece to correct parallax... he doesn't know about optics either.

You got a friend that shoots benchrest and says something different... he don't know crapola!

This is the way, the only way, there is no other way.

You wanna "debate it", then go play golf, cuz you're wasting my time!

'lito (gettin' grumpy in my old age!)"

I may own a scope. Laughing!

Again...WTF glass is whipping your ass and what are the particulars of the rifle and what is it's application.

Then frost that humor,with a Treatise on your "one mile viewing"...if only for starters.

Funnier than hell,that Clueless Dumbphuqqs asking questions,soon "think" they can give "answers".

That Magic Pixie Dust is funny schit!.............

You don't see it, but he's trying help you.



Parallax adjustment has backlash. Lets say that you get parallax removed at 400 yards and then slip the ring so it aligns to 400 yards. You will not be able to adjust it to 400 yards later and it be parallax free at 400.

Yes, well, some guys seem to let confidence become arrogance. If he knew the answer he could have said it. Instead he did what he did.

My knowledge is exactly what the write-up I posted above says. It also says there is backlash in the mechanism, so you have to start at the travel stop past the infinity mark, and dial back to remove parallax. The settings won't always be the same for various shots, but it will get you close. So my understanding is that the best way to remove parallax is always to dial back while moving your eye around a bit to make sure.

The knob realignment is really just an OCD thing to make a person feel better. But, there you have it, and my original question on this particular scope.