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Hi guys can somebody help me I have a Rem. 700 varmint special all sanded up and ready for a finish I wanted a low lustre matte like finish , can somebody tell me what to use and maybe some tips on how to make it work .Thanks

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There's been some 'discussion' on this subject recently, with strong opinions expressed. Sitka Deer has a good finish he can share, as does alpine crick. As for me, I'm in the late stages of applying Waterlox Original. Looks great after 6 thin coats, and I'll probably put 4 or 5 more on it. Pores are mostly filled now. Looks better than the oil finish this is replacing, though it may not turn out as tough as what Sitka does.

Will my Waterlox finish look like a matte oil finish? Probably depends on how much I rub it out once it's cured.

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There has been so much bandied about on this subject on the Campfire recently that I don't have the strength to go through it all again. May I suggest you research old posts on the subject and take it from there.

I will say that you would be better off using a gloss finish and rub it out afterward to achieve the effect you want. Lots of good reasons to do it that way.


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Go on to the "Ask the Gunwriters" and scroll down a bit and look for Stock Spar Finishes. Several pages of more than you want to know.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
There has been so much bandied about on this subject on the Campfire recently that I don't have the strength to go through it all again. May I suggest you research old posts on the subject and take it from there.

I will say that you would be better off using a gloss finish and rub it out afterward to achieve the effect you want. Lots of good reasons to do it that way.


This oughtta' smoke out Art again........ grin

One way to achieve something approximating an oil finish is to use 2-4 (thinned") coats of semi-gloss spar urethane, followed by 2-3 coats of (thinned) flat spar. Try to find the same brand type of spar urethane for both sheens for compatibility's sake. This way you kinda' get the best of both worlds.

The semi-gloss underneath will give the finish a bit of the appearance of "depth" too.

Casey



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Thanks a lot guys , you pointed me in the right direction . Kudu 1

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Some may have pointed you in the right direction... Casey did not...

Sad that someone claiming to know something about finish would give such a "wonderful" example of same...


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I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil cut with mineral spirits on anywhere from a 3 or 5 to i basis (mineral oil/Tru Oil) rubbed in with Armor All in the palm of the hand. Do 15-20 coats and then rub the sheen off with 0000 steel wool. (The higher the ratio of mineral oil to Tru Oil, the less the shine on the stock.)

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I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil cut with mineral spirits on anywhere from a 3 or 5 to 1 basis (mineral oil/Tru Oil) rubbed in with Armor All in the palm of the hand. Do 15-20 coats and then rub the sheen off with 0000 steel wool. (The higher the ratio of mineral oil to Tru Oil, the less the shine on the stock.) Disclaimer: I am a complete frigging novice at finishing gun stocks. Get a second opinion. wink )

Jordan

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That is wrong on several levels. Refer to previous posts regarding the fallacy of thinning finishes in initial coats, and the fallacy of introducing any compound containing silicone (which includes ArmorAll). Rubbing out a finish with 0000 steel wool will undoubedly leave teeny bits of steel snagged in the finish- you can't see them or feel them but they're there, and you will see them when those little brown rust spots materialize on a really humid/wet day.

A little time spent analyzing old posts here will pay dividends. An evening of going back through several years worth of old posts can be time well spent and may well avoid catastrophic mistakes (and in many instances provide enough drama to satisfy any taste). Unfortunately, the average bear today can't be bothered with time consuming research- we need instant gratification to salve our lazy souls. Nor do we want to master arcane arts such as wood finishing- we seek instead the "quick fix", that may well bite us in the butt at some point down the road. Great advances have been made in the world of finishes over the last few decades, thank god. But, the one irrefutable constant is the mindset of the craftsman- one needs to adopt an attitude that allows for meticulousness in all details (including doing one's homework beforehand- research baby, research) and be prepared to devote as much time as necessary to the project. As with everything else in life, you get out of it what you put into it.



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I agree that the silicone containing materials are a bad idea. I suppose that for a finish you might get something that looks good, but be happy with it since it might be pretty tough to ever remove the silicones prior to the next finish. I would not want that problem.

And yes, patience is really important. Can't rush through a great finish. I will admit that I am impatient, and it have to fight it every time I make something wooden.

I'm still waiting for the Waterlox to cure. Looks great right now, but it'll look so much better later. About a month away from being finished. A month. Dang.

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Try this link below:

https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037

Really covers all the basics on a tried and proven method - you can vary the final product for flat matte, semi-gloss, or a French-polish finish.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
That is wrong on several levels. Refer to previous posts regarding the fallacy of thinning finishes in initial coats, and the fallacy of introducing any compound containing silicone (which includes ArmorAll). Rubbing out a finish with 0000 steel wool will undoubedly leave teeny bits of steel snagged in the finish- you can't see them or feel them but they're there, and you will see them when those little brown rust spots materialize on a really humid/wet day.

A little time spent analyzing old posts here will pay dividends. An evening of going back through several years worth of old posts can be time well spent and may well avoid catastrophic mistakes (and in many instances provide enough drama to satisfy any taste). Unfortunately, the average bear today can't be bothered with time consuming research- we need instant gratification to salve our lazy souls. Nor do we want to master arcane arts such as wood finishing- we seek instead the "quick fix", that may well bite us in the butt at some point down the road. Great advances have been made in the world of finishes over the last few decades, thank god. But, the one irrefutable constant is the mindset of the craftsman- one needs to adopt an attitude that allows for meticulousness in all details (including doing one's homework beforehand- research baby, research) and be prepared to devote as much time as necessary to the project. As with everything else in life, you get out of it what you put into it.



I admit I am a novice, but this is the source I found that convinced me to try this method.


http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=246076

I guess I should have a tack cloth to make sure the steel wool is thoroughly removed. I can't find a substitute for 0000 steel wool. What else could a guy use?


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The finish produced by Armor-All and Tru-Oil is garbage, failing every waterproofness and spotting test...

Steel wool was made worthless for stocks by Bear-Tex pads... Maroon will do a nice job of replacing OOOO steel wool.

After many, many folks have done a simple test board with sanded slurry finish versus straight oil, not a single person has thought the sanded slurry looked as good as straight oil. But don't trust me and my results, do it for yourself... it is very quick and easy.

Do the same with the Armor-All... Just do it outside and away from anything else you may use for finishing wood. It will produce a huge contamination ring around everything you touch. It is nearly impossible to get it out of wood once applied.






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I don't even allow WD-40, ArmorAll, or anything else with silicone in it to be brought into my shop. Even though I use WD-40 as an initial water displacer (hence its name) after the last carding in a rust bluing job, I take it outside for that, and then go straight home with the parts so as not to allow even one molecule of the stuff to invade my workspace.

I have used ultrafine bronze wool to rub finishes out, but that stuff is really hard to find. I usually resort to good old rottenstone, but there's a learning curve to its use for uniform results.


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Craigster,thanks for that tip and the link. I just ordered some.


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Yeah, thanks! I ordered some of the white ones too. I didn't know they made them finer than the grey shades which I have used for other stuff.


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I researched for a long time and planned to use Pro-Custom Oil as suggested by a member here but Brownell's was out. I looked for an alternative and found a lot of people using Waterlox.

I recently refinished a 1950's Marlin 336A stock with Waterlox, wet sanded with Mirka 1000g and 1500g paper to smooth any imperfection with soft rubber sanding block. It turned out far better than my previous jobs with Tung oil and steel wool.

It has a very light sheen and the pores are filled.



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I use the gray ones. I've got the white ones but fail to see that they are aggressive enough to do anything. A cleaned used gray pad is less aggressive then a new one.

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