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I am going to get an aftermarket oil cooler for my 2003 Tundra V8. I have been looking at B&M, and Hayden to name a few. I like the looks of the B&M the best so far.
Any suggestions? Anything else I might need to know?
Thanks for any help.
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I went with the Hayden premium plate and fin cooler. Better cooling and a more substantial cooler. Take care when you route the hoses so it is not rubbing on anything. Good time to flush your system if it needs it.
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Thanks Chris,
What size did you go with?
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went with the biggest one listed at rockauto.com for my vehicle a 579 or 679
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Brand is less important than type. A stacked plate style cooler is much more efficient (for same footprint) than a tube & fin.
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I went with tube/fin for a couple reasons. first, you don't have to worry about purging the air out of them like the plate style, and they are less restrictive to the airflow entering the cooling stack.
Guns don't kill people, drivers with cell phones kill people.
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Did you guys bypass the cooler in the radiator or just add the cooler to the system?
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Did you guys bypass the cooler in the radiator or just add the cooler to the system? It's usually recommended not to bypass the radiator cooler. If you do, your transmission will not have any cooling when you're backing up because no air is flowing though the cooler in that situation.
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I bypassed the stock radiator cooler, but I have a fan from an H1 hummer, twin aftermarket coolers and deep transmission oil pan.
I also installed a small spin filter in the cooling circuit
Guns don't kill people, drivers with cell phones kill people.
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Did you guys bypass the cooler in the radiator or just add the cooler to the system? I added in a spin on filter and temp gauge. Added the cooler after it comes out of the original cooler.
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Make sure all the lines get routed so they are protected and not rubbing anywhere. Just has a hole rubbed through one of the lines on my suburban..
Naturally this happened while pulling a loaded trailer. I discovered the leak I. Rocksprings Wy on fri night... Great nothing open and no mechanics I just pressed on and made it to eastern neb. Without blowing the motor. Took 3 gal of oil tho...
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I have the B&M #70264 on its way. I need to get it in and working before I head to moose camp in 2 1/2 weeks.
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If you don't use the radiator cooler in series with an add-on cooler then the trans oil may not get warm enough in the winter to allow the trans to shift. The engine coolant warms the radiators internal trans cooler and therefore the trans oil. It happened to me.
Deus Juvat
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or use THIS but my 4L80e has never failed to function in the cold, although I do let it idle for a few minutes before moving, more for the diesel engine than the trans...
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If you don't use the radiator cooler in series with an add-on cooler then the trans oil may not get warm enough in the winter to allow the trans to shift. The engine coolant warms the radiators internal trans cooler and therefore the trans oil. It happened to me. That argument holds no water. Coolant doesn't flow through the radiator until the thermostat opens. By the time the thermostat opens the tranny fluid is warm enough to negate any additional warming effects running it through the radiator would have.
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holds no water... I see what you did there LOL
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The only instance it does work is if it were very cold and you let the truck idle until it reached operating temperature, assuming your transmission pumped fluid in park, which many don't
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I have to agree with you.
the thermostat in my link above is the cold weather cure.
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Well it DOES hold water because it happened to a car I used to have. I put a big cooler in front of the radiator and didn't use the radiator cooler and the car would never shift up out of first gear in below freezing temperatures. Turbo 400 for inquiring minds. When I ran the cooler in series the trans would shift normal.
Deus Juvat
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I will add the cooler to the existing one. Just thought I would ask to see if there was any merit to the bypass as it seems quite a few people have gone this route.
Thanks again for all the info.
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The only instance it does work is if it were very cold and you let the truck idle until it reached operating temperature, assuming your transmission pumped fluid in park, which many don't Only ones that don't pump fluid in park are the dodges and some jeeps.
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The only instance it does work is if it were very cold and you let the truck idle until it reached operating temperature, assuming your transmission pumped fluid in park, which many don't Only ones that don't pump fluid in park are the dodges and some jeeps. Thanks. Most of my experience has been with jeeps. I knew they didn't and knew Chevy transmissions transmissions did.... Wasn't sure where the rest fell
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The only instance it does work is if it were very cold and you let the truck idle until it reached operating temperature, assuming your transmission pumped fluid in park, which many don't Only ones that don't pump fluid in park are the dodges and some jeeps. Thanks. Most of my experience has been with jeeps. I knew they didn't and knew Chevy transmissions transmissions did.... Wasn't sure where the rest fell You are welcome, always a scary thing to check tranny fluid when you have to put it in neutral.
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The only instance it does work is if it were very cold and you let the truck idle until it reached operating temperature, assuming your transmission pumped fluid in park, which many don't Only ones that don't pump fluid in park are the dodges and some jeeps. Thanks. Most of my experience has been with jeeps. I knew they didn't and knew Chevy transmissions transmissions did.... Wasn't sure where the rest fell You are welcome, always a scary thing to check tranny fluid when you have to put it in neutral. Especially when your parking brake doesn't work!
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It's usually recommended not to bypass the radiator cooler. If you do, your transmission will not have any cooling when you're backing up because no air is flowing though the cooler in that situation.
You are joking, right? Most auxiliary trans coolers are mounted in front of the radiator where the cooling fan provides air flow through it��whether you are going forward or backing up. 
Cancer Sucks
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It's usually recommended not to bypass the radiator cooler. If you do, your transmission will not have any cooling when you're backing up because no air is flowing though the cooler in that situation.
You are joking, right? Most auxiliary trans coolers are mounted in front of the radiator where the cooling fan provides air flow through it��whether you are going forward or backing up. Yeah....well sorry to say but the joke is definitely NOT on me. Click Here
When the engine is cool or even at normal operating temperature, the fan clutch partially disengages the engine's mechanically-driven radiator cooling fan, generally located at the front of the water pump and driven by a belt and pulley connected to the engine's crankshaft. This saves power, since the engine does not have to fully drive the fan.
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Although the "your transmission will not have any cooling when you're backing up because no air is flowing though the cooler in that situation" was one of the funniest things I've read in a long while��your Wikipedia fan clutch copy and paste is running a strong second!! If you REALLY believe that the fan is disengaged enough that it doesn't move air through the radiator, even when the engine is cold, reach down and feel the air flow ��.better yet, reach down there and try to stop the "partially disengaged" fan!! Let us know how that works out for you�..PS, you will probably need someone else to type your answer. Here is a clue��.. if your "backing up" statement was true, just letting your car idle in park would overheat the transmission too because the only air flowing across the radiator is being moved by the fan (even with a partially disengaged fan clutch!). By the way, I've only been doing mechanic work for 40 years or so�..part of that time I made my living turning wrenches��worked in a few GM dealerships and a private fleet maintenance shop. How about you??
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I proved my point with a link to an outside source. Can to do the same? Please provide your engineering analysis of fan airflow at typical ambient temperatures found in an automobile in the lower 48 of say -35 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and if said airflow will provide sufficient transmission cooling using an external cooler. Charts and graphs would be helpful. Also, a detailed explanation of how the silicone fluid used in a fan clutch works to disengage the fan to reduce parasitic engine drain would enlighten everyone with your expertise.
And while we're on the topic, let's not forget the move away from fan clutches to electric fans. How much air are they moving on a cold engine at -20 degrees as you're rocking the vehicle back and forth, furiously spinning the tires, trying to break free from last nights snowfall?
Finally if there is sufficient and constant airflow at all times as you claim, why do the makers of external transmission coolers continue to recommend not bypassing the internal cooler located in the radiator tank?
Or you can just keep running your mouth.
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thermocouple fans do still pull quite a bit of air when 'disengaged'. it is recommended to still use the radiator cooler because most aftermarket coolers are not designed to provide enough cooling as stand-alone units
I've had mine bypassed for years and have never exceeded 185* trans temp, but I have large twin aftermarket coolers.
Guns don't kill people, drivers with cell phones kill people.
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I proved my point with a link to an outside source. Can to do the same? Please provide your engineering analysis of fan airflow at typical ambient temperatures found in an automobile in the lower 48 of say -35 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and if said airflow will provide sufficient transmission cooling using an external cooler. Charts and graphs would be helpful. Also, a detailed explanation of how the silicone fluid used in a fan clutch works to disengage the fan to reduce parasitic engine drain would enlighten everyone with your expertise.
And while we're on the topic, let's not forget the move away from fan clutches to electric fans. How much air are they moving on a cold engine at -20 degrees as you're rocking the vehicle back and forth, furiously spinning the tires, trying to break free from last nights snowfall?
Finally if there is sufficient and constant airflow at all times as you claim, why do the makers of external transmission coolers continue to recommend not bypassing the internal cooler located in the radiator tank?
Or you can just keep running your mouth. The only thing you "proved" is how little you know about the subject being discussed�.you cut and pasted an irrelevant Wiki page that "proves" nothing but your ignorance It doesn't take an "engineering analysis" to realize that your "backing up" statement is ridiculous and, trying to "prove" that statement by cutting and pasting a Wiki page about clutch fans is even dumber. Why don't you post an "engineering analysis" demonstrating how "your transmission will not have any cooling when you're backing up because no air is flowing though the cooler in that situation"? Electric fans?? Well we weren't discussing electric fans, but I'll answer your question. A single speed electric fan, when it is running, moves the same amount of air "on a cold engine at -20 degrees as you're rocking the vehicle back and forth, furiously spinning the tires, trying to break free from last nights snowfall", as it does with the vehicle idling at 100 degrees. The reason most manufacturers of auxiliary trans coolers don't recommend bypassing the factory cooler is because air to air heat exchangers must be larger per BTU of cooling capacity than liquid cooled heat exchangers. If you ask a cooler manufacturer, they will give you a recommendation for a stand alone air to air cooler to replace your in radiator cooler��whether it will fit your vehicle is another matter. Do a search for "pink milkshake" and "Toyota 4 runner" and you will find a lot of people that have bypassed the in radiator cooler in their 4 runners and are running stand alone air to air trans coolers. Best advice I can give at this point is stop digging, the hole you are in is deep enough.
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I installed a B&M trans cooler in my Cherokee a few months back. It has a cold weather "low pressure drop" feature to allow a contolled amount of fluid to bypass the core until the fluid temp reaches a certain point. B&M installation instructions say to run the cooler inline but after the OEM cooler. MAYBE you can get by without using the OEM one in warmer climates.
Last edited by EZEARL; 10/03/14.
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I proved my point with a link to an outside source. Can to do the same? Please provide your engineering analysis of fan airflow at typical ambient temperatures found in an automobile in the lower 48 of say -35 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit and if said airflow will provide sufficient transmission cooling using an external cooler. Charts and graphs would be helpful. Also, a detailed explanation of how the silicone fluid used in a fan clutch works to disengage the fan to reduce parasitic engine drain would enlighten everyone with your expertise.
And while we're on the topic, let's not forget the move away from fan clutches to electric fans. How much air are they moving on a cold engine at -20 degrees as you're rocking the vehicle back and forth, furiously spinning the tires, trying to break free from last nights snowfall?
Finally if there is sufficient and constant airflow at all times as you claim, why do the makers of external transmission coolers continue to recommend not bypassing the internal cooler located in the radiator tank?
Or you can just keep running your mouth. The only thing you "proved" is how little you know about the subject being discussed�.you cut and pasted an irrelevant Wiki page that "proves" nothing but your ignorance It doesn't take an "engineering analysis" to realize that your "backing up" statement is ridiculous and, trying to "prove" that statement by cutting and pasting a Wiki page about clutch fans is even dumber. Why don't you post an "engineering analysis" demonstrating how "your transmission will not have any cooling when you're backing up because no air is flowing though the cooler in that situation"? Electric fans?? Well we weren't discussing electric fans, but I'll answer your question. A single speed electric fan, when it is running, moves the same amount of air "on a cold engine at -20 degrees as you're rocking the vehicle back and forth, furiously spinning the tires, trying to break free from last nights snowfall", as it does with the vehicle idling at 100 degrees. The reason most manufacturers of auxiliary trans coolers don't recommend bypassing the factory cooler is because air to air heat exchangers must be larger per BTU of cooling capacity than liquid cooled heat exchangers. If you ask a cooler manufacturer, they will give you a recommendation for a stand alone air to air cooler to replace your in radiator cooler��whether it will fit your vehicle is another matter. Do a search for "pink milkshake" and "Toyota 4 runner" and you will find a lot of people that have bypassed the in radiator cooler in their 4 runners and are running stand alone air to air trans coolers. Best advice I can give at this point is stop digging, the hole you are in is deep enough. My quote was used to support my position. You are either unwilling or unable to support your position with links to outside sources as I have already requested. You know, it's fine to have a different opinion. What I can't condone is trying to discredit another member's opinion, which is what you've tried to do here. Simply stating that in your experience you would take another approach would have been sufficient and made the Campfire a better place for everyone. Get it? Grow up, man up and if you can't then shut up.
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My quote was used to support my position. You are either unwilling or unable to support your position with links to outside sources as I have already requested.
You know, it's fine to have a different opinion. What I can't condone is trying to discredit another member's opinion, which is what you've tried to do here. Simply stating that in your experience you would take another approach would have been sufficient and made the Campfire a better place for everyone. Get it? Grow up, man up and if you can't then shut up.
Your quote didn't support your position because your "position" was foolish and the quote was irrelevant�.instead of trying to learn something, you became defensive and started asking for "engineering analysis"��you don't need an "engineering analysis" , a Wikipedia quote or an "outside source" to know that a mechanically driven fan moves air across the radiator, even when equipped with a thermal clutch��just start the engine and observe what happens!! Your "backing up" post wasn't stated as an opinion, it was stated as fact��it's not a fact, it's not even partially true. I don't have a "different opinion", I have actual experience, I've worked on clutch fans, heat exchangers and cooling systems��the truth is, you posted something that was so obviously false it was comical. Like I said, I've been doing mechanic work for 40+ years��..I noticed you avoided the question concerning your experience. Maybe you need to take you own advice about shutting up, especially when you don't know what you are talking about.
Cancer Sucks
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My quote was used to support my position. You are either unwilling or unable to support your position with links to outside sources as I have already requested.
You know, it's fine to have a different opinion. What I can't condone is trying to discredit another member's opinion, which is what you've tried to do here. Simply stating that in your experience you would take another approach would have been sufficient and made the Campfire a better place for everyone. Get it? Grow up, man up and if you can't then shut up.
Your quote didn't support your position because your "position" was foolish and the quote was irrelevant�.instead of trying to learn something, you became defensive and started asking for "engineering analysis"��you don't need an "engineering analysis" , a Wikipedia quote or an "outside source" to know that a mechanically driven fan moves air across the radiator, even when equipped with a thermal clutch��just start the engine and observe what happens!! Your "backing up" post wasn't stated as an opinion, it was stated as fact��it's not a fact, it's not even partially true. I don't have a "different opinion", I have actual experience, I've worked on clutch fans, heat exchangers and cooling systems��the truth is, you posted something that was so obviously false it was comical. Like I said, I've been doing mechanic work for 40+ years��..I noticed you avoided the question concerning your experience. Maybe you need to take you own advice about shutting up, especially when you don't know what you are talking about. \ Well, that eliminates the "grow up" part.
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Here are Hayden's instructions for installing their transmission oil cooler - ![[Linked Image]](http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m179/compintheusa/HaydenTransmissionOilCooler_zps5c99ded4.png) Hayden Cooler Instructions You can all go with what Hayden and their engineers have to say on installing a cooler, or chose to follow our resident expert who seems unable to back up any of his claims.
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Here are Hayden's instructions for installing their transmission oil cooler - Hayden Cooler Instructions You can all go with what Hayden and their engineers have to say on installing a cooler, or chose to follow our resident expert who seems unable to back up any of his claims. Did you notice in figure B that Hayden's own instructions show the installation of their cooler with the factory cooler bypassed?? Guess you are only suppose to install it that way if you have no fan clutch and no reverse gear?? This just keeps getting better!!
Cancer Sucks
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Here are Hayden's instructions for installing their transmission oil cooler - Hayden Cooler Instructions You can all go with what Hayden and their engineers have to say on installing a cooler, or chose to follow our resident expert who seems unable to back up any of his claims. Did you notice in figure B that Hayden's own instructions show the installation of their cooler with the factory cooler bypassed?? Guess you are only suppose to install it that way if you have no fan clutch and no reverse gear?? This just keeps getting better!! And did you READ that Option B install was only to be used if your internal radiator cooler was damaged? Yes, better indeed!
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Here are Hayden's instructions for installing their transmission oil cooler - Hayden Cooler Instructions You can all go with what Hayden and their engineers have to say on installing a cooler, or chose to follow our resident expert who seems unable to back up any of his claims. Did you notice in figure B that Hayden's own instructions show the installation of their cooler with the factory cooler bypassed?? Guess you are only suppose to install it that way if you have no fan clutch and no reverse gear?? This just keeps getting better!! And did you READ that Option B install was only to be used if your internal radiator cooler was damaged? Yes, better indeed! You REALLY are dense aren't you��.if Hayden says a one to two size larger unit will work as a stand alone cooler, does it really matter why the cooler in the radiator is bypassed?? There is no magic situation where a stand alone cooler will work ONLY if your factory cooler is damaged and won't work if your factory cooler is in good condition. I never said it was "better" to bypass the existing cooler (although it is in certain situations), I said a stand alone air to air cooler will work if you use the proper size unit. You just keep showing your ignorance�.
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![[Linked Image]](http://s104.photobucket.com/user/compintheusa/media/HaydenTransmissionOilCooler_zps5c99ded4.png.html)