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Originally Posted by Kentucky_Windage

I also have one of the new FN Model 70 Featherweights in .270, and all it needed out of the box was a little trigger adjustment. That was a bit of a PITA, but apart from that, I've been very satisfied with the rifle. Here's how that rifle shoots with ammo it likes:


[Linked Image]


I am also in the process of reviewing a new (Portugal assembly) Model 70 Ultimate Shadow Hunter SS in 30-06. Best groups from this rifle, with preferred ammo, are one ragged hole.


[Linked Image]


Unfortunately, it sounds like you got a problem child. If it shoots that poorly and you've eliminated the usual suspect causes, I'd be having a discussion with the factory.



Here's my regiment with a new Model 70.

Free Float barrel.
Adjust Trigger
Work up load.
Go shoot tiny groups.


You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.

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Originally Posted by johnnyo55
one of my faves, the .270 WCF.



There's your problem! LOL


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which cannot be broken by woman.
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Okay, I went and did it...re-bedded the rifle. I bedded the receiver from the rear of the receiver ring and the first two inches or so of the barrel, and the area around the square "pad" at the tang...only the half inch or so around where the rear action screw enters. I taped the front and bottom of the lug, to ease disassembly and ensure that the action is not bottoming solely at the lug's lower surface. Some recommend taping the sides of the lug as well, but I reasoned that the closest fit possible is desirable from a standpoint of eliminating ANY side-to-side play.

Hopefully the support the barrel now has will help it recover it's "whips" to the same point every time regardless of its temperature or other variables. If this doesn't work, I'm pretty much out of solutions and will have to look (or have the factory look) at whether or not the barrel is straight.

I've got a lot of different loads to try. If I "open fire" Saturday afternoon, that'll give the Acraglas (gel) about 44 hours to have cured. Is this sufficient?

Wish me luck!

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Originally Posted by johnnyo55
First post here! I recently picked up one of the new "FN" Model 70 Featherweights, this one in one of my faves, the .270 WCF. I've had perhaps a half dozen Model 70s over the years, and have always been pleased.

This one, however, just doesn't want to group. I can't seem to get 3 shot groups into less than 2.5". I suspect that as the barrel heats up it starts walking the rounds around; dispersion seems to be evenly vertical or horizontal. I've dremeled away much of the factory bedding, leaving that which is behind the recoil lug and relieving that in front of, below, and to the sides of the lug. I'm going to try waiting, like, 5 minutes between rounds...see what happens. I'm thinking of just completely re-doing the bedding with Acraglas.

My question...relieving the bedding in front of the lug has left the barrel completely unsupported...it's REALLY free-floating. That pencil-weight tube is out there, waving around in the heat with no visible means of support. It seems to me that, even with a free-floating barrel, there should be SOME support, at least for the first half-inch or inch or so. What's the collective wisdom here?





Why did you whittle away at the factory bedding? Did you do this after you shot the rifle? How many different loads did you try? How's the moa trigger? You using a "proven" scope to verify accuracy. Loose actions in stocks don't cut it and that's what you achieved when you took the factory bedding out.


Generally (from my experience) the new FN's are bedded very well from the factory. Your grinding away at the factory bedding was kind of pointless unless you checked it with a dial indicator to conclude there was a problem with the factory bedding: IE, stressed receiver in stock. As far as your comment about the fwt's having pencil thin barrels that need support under them, I call bullchite. The fwt's have shot lights out (in my experience) with no bedding under the barrel at all, this includes under the chamber area. If you got a lemon from Winchester, re-glass bedding the rifle isn't going to make it shoot any better. If and when you decide it still doesn't shoot good enough, now you've added your own bedding and they will frown upon that and say it's not shooting good because of your tinkering.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by CP
I have three FN 70 FWTs and one FN 70 Portagee FWT. They are all reasonably decent shooters. The only recurring issue I had with all of them was the actions screws would back out over a 15-25 round range session. I finally had to use blue loctite to prevent the screws from backing-out. I would suggest that you take a felt tipped pen and make some witness marks on the screws and guard to see if you have movement before you reach for a dremel. CP.



He's already reached for the dremel. Or am I reading his first post wrong???? :

Originally Posted by johnnyo55
First post here! I recently picked up one of the new "FN" Model 70 Featherweights, this one in one of my faves, the .270 WCF. I've had perhaps a half dozen Model 70s over the years, and have always been pleased.

This one, however, just doesn't want to group. I can't seem to get 3 shot groups into less than 2.5". I suspect that as the barrel heats up it starts walking the rounds around; dispersion seems to be evenly vertical or horizontal. I've dremeled away much of the factory bedding, leaving that which is behind the recoil lug and relieving that in front of, below, and to the sides of the lug. I'm going to try waiting, like, 5 minutes between rounds...see what happens. I'm thinking of just completely re-doing the bedding with Acraglas.

My question...relieving the bedding in front of the lug has left the barrel completely unsupported...it's REALLY free-floating. That pencil-weight tube is out there, waving around in the heat with no visible means of support. It seems to me that, even with a free-floating barrel, there should be SOME support, at least for the first half-inch or inch or so. What's the collective wisdom here?






I also suspect that's why his rifle is shooting like chit..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Good rifles will shoot chit ammo better than a bad rifle will shoot good ammo...

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I had a Remington that drove me nuts awhile back, had it bore scoped and rifling was partially missing and badly chattered. Remington rebarreled rifle free of charge.

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Originally Posted by 16bore
Good rifles will shoot chit ammo better than a bad rifle will shoot good ammo...



Good post!!!!


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Just to address some possible misunderstandings. I try not to fix things that aren't broken!

1) I "got out my Dremel" only after shooting half a dozen different loads (both factory and handloads, with uniformly mediocre results), sending the scope back to Leupold, attempting to put upward pressure at the forend tip, trying different combinations of action screw tightness, and reading quotes from Jack O'Connor to the rifle.

2) When I finally did grind away at the factory bedding, I did so cautiously, only relieving the areas around the lug other than at the rear of same. I didn't really remove much material until last night when I decided to re-bed entirely, incorporating support at the rear of the barrel.

I'm thinking that if I DO end up sending the rifle back to the factory, the defect will be so gross as to eliminate the possibility that the problem is due to my work.

The proof, of course, is in the pudding...I'll know a lot more after I shoot it tomorrow!

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I have 3 M70 FN rifles. Two are featherweights and one sporter. A 7x57 shot everything I fed it well for hunting purposes. The 264WM took a long time to find the load. I finally found three that are well under an inch. Before that though I was having horizontal and vertical stringing and patterns not groups. So it was way more finicky than the 7x57 or the 30-06. The trigger was similar to the other two and the stock screws were torqued right and the bedding looked good. So it may just be finicky like mine.


If liberals knew what they were missing, they�d give up drugs, sex and rock-n-roll for shooting and hunting. But then the rest of us would never draw an elk tag, so to hell with 'em! � James "Mitch" Vilos aka (Pancho Vilos)
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I bet some good donuts if you send it back to winchester they send it back with a note warranty voided cause you took a dremel to it. I would bed it myself


Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

Suckin' on my titties like you wanted me.
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Success!

The results of my afternoon at the range were satisfying; of the five loads I tested, all save one (the 110 gr.) managed to group right around an inch. Most groups consisted of two shots half an inch apart with the third opening things up to an inch, 1 MOA.

While my firing pace was hardly "rapid fire", I didn't make any attempt to slow the pace to allow cooling between shots. I did take breaks (during which I fired other rifles) between groups to allow some degree of barrel cooling. Tomorrow I'm going to consciously space shots out for longer intervals, just to see if letting the barrel cool between shots has any effect.

Next: Load development!

P.S. Another test subject performed nicely today. For years I've been contemplating glass (or, rather, epoxy) bedding my M1A, but fear of the complexity and the possibility of gluing moving parts together kept me from doing so. Well, a month or so ago I figuratively bit the bullet and spent the majority of a weekend on that project; I was pleasantly rewarded with a rifle that would disassemble just as it had before. Today I got to fire it, and the results were five shot groups of just under an inch with GI M852 match ammo using iron sights. I'm a happy guy!

Last edited by johnnyo55; 09/27/14.
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I wait two minutes between shots and h4831 is the powder to use in the 270


Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

Suckin' on my titties like you wanted me.
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Actually, my best load today was with RL-22; just a hair better than the RL-19 load. I wanted to get some H4831sc, but none was available locally so I settled for RL-22. I'm anxious to try some 4831; most people, like you, say it's the powder of choice for the .270. Do you use standard or magnum primers?

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I use std primers with 140gr hornady bullets. Every now and then you will find the occasional oddball using 4064 smile

Last edited by 79S; 09/27/14.

Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

Suckin' on my titties like you wanted me.
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I'm an odd ball. I use IMR 4350. Just loaded up some ammo a second ago for my buddy. He likes the sierra gk and IMR 4350 in his TC venture. The rifle prints 3/4" 5 shot groups with ease with this load...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

BSA MAGA
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