Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Savage Model 1920,300 savage?

Great uncle was supposed to have used it for bear. Serial 4 digit 7300. Wood stock nice with checkering,bore sharp and shiney bore.Blue 80%+ fading no rust,buttplate metal Indan head on bottom. In our state we can not use hi-power rifles. It looks like a little light Mauser rifle. I would like to sell it .$450 shipped in 48 lower to your FFL dealer.It would make a nice deer rifle too.Will try to post pictures tonight.

It might be a great deal, but it's a pig in a poke without photos.

Rod

If I can post a picture I will later tonight. If I cannot just email me a post or I can do it on cell phone. It is not a pig -in-the poke. Thanks

PM sent. Click the flashing envelope next to "my stuff".

Your stuff?.....

I'll take it. Will send funds.

Tom

Sold Marshfellow SPF,first in line,thankyou.

So, it's OK to sell Savage/Stevens stuff in this forum?

Hail yes!

I'm going to be interested to see what this rifle looks like. If it's in decent shape the buyer did very very well.

I think marshfellow owes us a few more posts if its in nice shape seeing how decent 1920s often go for twice that price.

If you post here, the consensus has been that any discussion of the item is legit. So if you post up a $500 gun for an asking price of $900, expect somebody to say that. Whereas if posting in the Free Classifieds, that would be considered in very bad taste.

Thanks Calhoun. Understood.

He got a fair buy for a honest rifle as rare as hen's teeth today. A Savage man to the end and she is going back home to New York close to where she was made and born.

I for one look forward to seeing pics of the rifle someday soon Tom.

I can't believe one of you guy's didn't buy it just for the price sight unseen or not. In almost any shape and by the way the seller said "it was in good shape" if you wanted to sell it the day after you received it you would turn a profit. If you would have held on to it,it would be a nice add to your collection. I wish I was online when it went upI haven't seen one for sale on the forum since the last one I bought a year ago.
For Shame!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think most people blinked when they realized the seller was a newbie with one post to his credit, too low of a price, and no pics. I know that I waffled a bit there and by the time I figured out the guy sounded legit, it was too late.

This was one instance where "if it seems too good to be true, it probably is" doesn't apply. Of course we have yet to see the rifle...

That was EXACTLY my thought as well. And though I may have made a mistake, I'd rather make a mistake with money in my pocket than a mistake and the money in someone else's pocket. I don't "need" to have every gun that comes along, but seeing it myself first helps ease things up just a tad. Lessons CAN be expensive and painful. BUT, they can also be painful and penny wise. I prefer the latter. That's the one I'm used to.

The rifle was very much worth the money...I got pics and then got too busy at work and missed it. Low post count really didn't matter to me as we all had low post counts at one point. I think you guys turned out to be great guys.

There's the "salt" I needed....................

Sorry.....I didn't want to be the only one who felt bad.

It's JUST a gun and you can't have them all. Salt DOES make things heal faster............

Hell,My brother picked up a pretty nice 1920 in 250-3000 two weeks ago, for $350 at a gunshop 20 miles from me.Frank,The shop owner had never seen one before,and had no idea what it was !!!! there still out there guys.

Epilogue:

The 1920 arrived safely, very well packed. Nice rifle.
I mention this only because there was reservation about dealing with a "stranger" with a very low post count & no pictures. May I say this fella is a gentleman. It's nice to know there are still some out there. Also, remember the days of the "Shotgun News"????....there were no pictures then either.
tjw

Good. I'm glad the story ended well, and I hope you can post some pictures. I think a lot of times we let our suspicions of fraud keep us from getting good deals on good rifles from good people. I saw the listing, and wasn't willing to take a chance, as I'm sure several others did. "If it seems too good to be true, it probably is," etc. Well, as you're deal shows, sometimes these work out very well. Congratulations.

Rod

I hope this won'nt make you suspicious: I am a canadian newcomer here (registered yesterday...), 67 years old, hunter and shooter (both in Canada and Europe).

I indeed own a Model 1920 Savage rifle (first model) in 300 Sav. caliber.

It has all the frills and is in top, factory issued condition, save for a couple of dings in the (original) varnish of the stock.

The serial number is 77XX.

As bizare as it may sound, this rifle look unused. I have never shot it myself.

I will send a letter to John Callahan, the Savage historian in the coming days to get information on the rifle's date of manufacture which, I guess, must be somewhere between 1920~1925.

I'd read De Haas's chapter on the Mod. 1920 Savage many years ago, and much to my surprise I fell on this rifle in the used gun rack of a large Quebec-City gunstore.

I will be pleased to post detailed pictures of it in the coming days...

Regards!

OldshotFR

Welcome to the campfire!

Welcome jmschmitt! I'm looking forward to seeing images of your little beauty.

I passed a M1920 300 this week for sale in gun shop a small town in Ontario because it was D/T and fitted with a scope. These old guns are a real find if they have condition.

Any change/ fumbling or tampering that is inflicted to such artifacts results in considerable loss of collector value.

Again, I am myself surprised of the condition of my Mod. 1920:

The metal is 99% original rust-blue, save for the bolt body and large extractor whose blue is fading due to back & forth movements (my guess).

The bolt face looks ...new (?)

The stock serrated but plate has the Savage indian head and "Savage Quality, Trade Mark" marking in an oval circle at the toe.

The rear sight blade has the marking "Savage Arms Corp./ Utica, N.Y.Pat. Pen'd"

incidentally, it has a very nice elevator ramp with a small screw in the back.

The barrel is marked on the top center as follows:

"Manufactured by Savage Arms Corp. UTICA, N.Y., USA
Patent march 28.1916 dec.26.1916 June 17.1919"

Left side of the barrel, in front of the receiver:

"Hi-Pressure steel
- Sav..300 -"

Left side of the receiver:

"Savage 1920 Model"

underneath: the serial number (77XX)

The condition of the stock is as follows:

original varnish with dings (from standing in the gun cabinet). The checkering is original and 100% condition.

No alteration or D.& T. whatsoever. Apparently 100% functional.

I got the rifle soaked in grease inside. I spent an afternoon cleaning all the inners.

I have seen a couple of strange things ever since I got interested in weaponry, but this one comes as a surprise. The only information I was able to get is to the effect that the rifle was brought to the store by a senior citizen aged over 90.

Even if that was the truth, the rifle itself is by all means older than his former owner.

Incidentally, I must have pressed the wrong button somewhere when registering. My pseudo is oldshotFR.

jmschmitt is my name in everyday's life. But then again, who cares?

Here's 5 pictures of my Mod. 1920.

Sorry, no more than 5 pictures allowed.

That's a beauty for sure.

Mmmmmmmmm. Niiiiice.

Welcome to the forum jmschmitt. That's a nice 1920 you have.

Looks like the original issue Model 1920: rear barrel sight, no rake to the bolt handle, from what can be seen of the stock it looks like the lightweight version.

Hi Steve99:

I doubt the stock could have been made anymore ...lightweight.

While on the topic of Savage, here's my experience with them.

At the end of the 80's Savage Canada was kind enough to build a L.H. heavy-barrelled mod. 900SL 22 LR rimfire repeater for my 10 years old son.

It was delivered with a birch stock. Couple weeks later a laminate grey/black stock followed at no charge. Four Years later Savage Arms (Westfield) was kind to send us free of charge a new trigger group for this rifle.

My son shot several hundred gophers and several red foxes with this rifle. It is as accurate todays as it was when it came in the box.

My son and I visited the Westfield plant some time later. We were given a tour of the plant by Carl Hildebrand, then senior Savage ingenieur. We were briefed on most aspects of rifle manufacturing and met Mrs. Effie Sullivan, a very special woman who knows every part of any Savage firearm developped and built over the last fifty years.

The Savage people are extremely dedicated to their Company. The former owner/president of this firm, Mr. Coburn deserves the highest praise for the fantastic job he did at getting this old Company back on the rails to success.

I have owned several 99ers in 300Sav., 308Win. and 358Win. and have used them on numerous occasions hunting north-american species as well as wild boar, stag and roe-deer in Europe.

My son owns a 99er of the sixties in Featherweight version. This rifle is equipped with a Meopta 1.5-6x42 riflescope clamped in EAW quick detach mounts. This rifle is chambered for the beautiful 300Sav. round and has been used extensively in Europe.

Not so long ago I ordered from Westfield a Mod. 14 "All American" 250Sav. rifle through Terry Mc Cullough, V.P. of Savage Arms (Canada). It is a beautiful rifle, mighty accurate and a real pleasure to carry afield.

Savage Arms is absolutely, totally oriented towards customer satisfaction. I will recommend their products anytime.

Jim

A little on the rough side, but I would store it in my safe for you if you have nowhere to store it. GW

Do you think they would respond positively to requests for a finer internal finish in their barrels?

Well, I cannot answer for Savage Arms, but if you have complaints about internal finish of one of your barrels, you'd be well inspired to drop a letter to their customer service.

Personnally I have experienced this issue with Ruger barrels but not with Savage tubes.

There's a possibility of variations in the quality of internal finish due to wear of the tooling. But that is true with all brands.

I guess all barrels are not created equal.

Very nice 1920. I also have one in 250-3000 that I purchased from 1899Sav,( who is a real gentleman). Just found some factory stuff in 87grain that I'm anxious to try and see how she groups.
The only negative thing that I would say is the two stage trigger. Never have liked em'. But that's just me. Anyway kinda' jealous here over your 300. Very nice!!

Steve

Hi Sbrown:

As i wrote earlier, I own a recent 250Sav. (actually a Savage Mod. 14 "All American")and while the caliber of our rifles is the same, the twist rate of both rifles is different.

The original twist rate of the 250-3000 is 1~14" and it was so designed to drive 87 gr. bullets up to 3000 f/ps.

The 1~14" twist will stabilize 100 gr. bullets but no more.

My rifle's barrell comes with a 1~10" twist rate, which will stabilize 110, 115, 117 and 120 gr. bullets.

The modern Savage Mod. 14 has a very sturdy action, and so does (in my opinion at least...) the Model 1920 which is nothing else but a Mauser-type bolt-action rifle since it features two front locking lugs and a safety lug behind the stem of the bolt lever.

My thinking is that the Model 1920 has a sturdier, more resistant action than has the Model 99, and that it will probably withstand higher breech pressures.

As to ammunition supply, Remington produces 100 gr. Core-Lokt fodder, and I purchased five boxes of that. I also purchased Lee's three-die set reloading dies and have meanwhile assembled my own ammunition using Nosler 110 gr. Accubond as well as Nosler 115 gr. Ballistic tip.

If your intention is to keep your rifle I would suggest that you look into reloading for it. Stay with 85, 87, 90 and 100 gr. bullets in your rifle.

I am sure you will obtain excellent results as to precision at very safe pressure levels.

Where are the length not weight guys?

We're here.

250-3000 in a 1 in 14" twist will stabilize short 100gr bullets, but not longer ones (such as Nosler bullets). Feel free to experiment for yourself, but lots of us have already gone there.

Length not weight is what determines stability in a given ROT (rate of twist), period. Add to what Calhoun stated the fact that actual ROT in older Savages can vary by as much as 10% either way and you get a bunch of exceptions to the rule also. Only way to find out is to experiment with your own rifle, and not rely on "internet gospel".

As far as the strength of 1920 actions, and their two-stage triggers, they are what they are. "Stiffer" than a 99? Maybe, but a moot point as both qualify for handling. SAAMI standard pressures. "Mini Mauser"? Sure, but I don't think it has as good gas handling features as a M98 Mauser. Would I fire hot handloads in one? Nope- it is almost 100 year old steel for pete's sake.

I like two stage triggers, as did a boat load of ex-doughboys right after WWI, to whom these rifles were directly marketed (that new crop of bolt gun men who before the war lived in a world of lever gun domination here in the States). Take a few minutes to get used to it and you won't mind it a bit.

Treat the 1920 for what it is and it won't let you down. Try to make it into something it was never intended to be, and you might get your tit in a wringer, same as any other gun.

Unfortunately I do not own a 250-3000 Sav. rifle with a 1~14" barrell twist rate, therefore I cannot conduct the tests as lots of you may have done.

As a matter of fact,I have not seen a great many 99ers chambered for the round, and those I have seen, including two takedowns, were in rather bad shape.

Have seen no Model 1920 in 250-3000 Sav. at all.

Which brand/ type bullets would you recommend for these rifles?

Here's a M1920 250-3000 I found at a gun show in Ontario - they are still out there.



Sierra 90 grain Blitzkings and Gamekings work well in the older 250-3000s.

My go to powder for this caliber for efficiency and accuracy is H4895

For the 250-3000's? A lot of us are fans of the 87gr Speer Hot Core. Seems to give the best accuracy while also being a very good performer on coyote/antelope/deer sized game. Others will list some of the 100gr bullets they use.

For the 300 Savage, I go with Nosler Partitions. I vary between 150gr, 165gr and 180gr depending on what the individual gun likes.

I tell people that if a bullet works in the .308, it'll probably work ok in the .300. (You probably don't want to here what my fave .300 bullet is because I march to the beat of a different drummer in that regard!)

One thing that often results from a discussion here about 1920's is olgrouser posting a pic of his sweet .250-- and that's a good thing!! IMO that rifle should be the poster child for M1920 addicts!

"Is this the line for Savage addicts rehab?" "Yeah, Bub. Just move to the back of the line."

The Savage Model 1920 has a few things going for it:

-the bolt features a rather sizeable gas vent that would divert efficiently into the magazine should a case separation occur. Now whether a second or even third gas vent would be better is hard to define.

-the Savage receiver measures 1.425" in diameter, while the Mauser Mod. 98 large ring receiver measures 1.410". (1.300" for the small ring). Not really making a case about this, but it's a fact.

-The savage receiver is shorter and of the same diameter throughout, front to back. It does not have a thumb slot cut into like the military Mauser 98 has. This would, at least theoretically, make the Savage receiver more rigid and certainly more solid than many K98k's produced during the last years of WWII.

Take me well, I am not into the bashing of the sacred Mauser Mod. 98. I did spend lot's of time in whatever remains of the walls of the Oberndorf plant and spent lots of hours discussing with some of the guys who wrote the books on Mauser products, but there is no denying that the little Savage 1920 is an interesting and well-made rifle.

As to the question of steel aging over the years, I have shot many rounds with older rifles (Lee-Enfields, Gew98's, Mauser 93/94/95/96, Danish Krags and French Lebels (to name a few).

Any ancient firearm ought to be inspected before it is fired. Obviously, some have such high a milleage that they deserve retirement.

On the other hand, I see no reason for a Savage Model 1920 that is in top shape to fail with commercial ammunition or well assembled reloads.

The balance is called chance or even bad luck.

In Germany the DEVA (Deutsche Versuchs-und Pr�f-Anstalt f�r Jagd und Sportwaffen e.V) has been collecting statistics over firearms failures for many years.

My understanding is that, eventually, about 1 in 120.000 rifles will fail at one time or another.

Thanks God, casualties or severe woundings are much less.

Let's take good care of our firearms, respect SAAMI / CIP prescriptions, and hope for the best!

The thumb cut in the receiver wall of M98 military receivers was dual purpose: it served as a duct to the outside for escaping gasses blasting down the LH guide rail, as well as a convenient place for one's thumb to fit when charging the magazine with stripper clips.

Yes, that's the reason for it. Problem is that it is the weak point of the Mauser 98 because the heat treatment given the Mauser receiver makes this point much harder and therefore more brittle.

By the way, I have owned a civilian double-square Mauser sporter chambered for the 8x57JS and assembled in 1942. It did not have the thumbcut anymore.

And back to the question of double-stage triggers, I have nothing against them either. They demand more control but rifles so equipped can still be shot accurately.

One type trigger I do not like is the Mosin-Nagant's. You never know when it breaks. But I may well be somewhat prejudiced...

Have to sign-out for now: hungry deer waiting for apples and carrots. And also a blackie.

What a bunch of thiefs!!!

Talk toi you later, Guys!