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I have wrangled an invite for the duck opener for the first time ever, and need some advice on gear. We will be hunting a low pond/ marsh decoy situation. Not concerned about clothes, was told rubber boots would be fine, not to worry about waders.

Really more concerned about choke and shells:
I have a Remington 870, 12 gauge 3", need to choose the right choke - have modified, extra full and rifled available. If I need another (assuming modified is best of what I have) which?

Shells - I know they have to be steel or something non lead - please recommend what size shot and brand - something I can find easily at Wal Mart, or more likely Gander Mountain. A trip to Bass Pro is possible but unlikely.

I will probably only go 1-2 times this year, and something in the $20-$30 range sounds reasonable and 1 box seems like it should be plenty.

Thanks in advance for the help - hoping to have a great time trying something new this year!

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Modified Choke should be perfect. NEVER shoot steel shot in a Full Choke!!


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Your modified choke should be fine......

.....as far as "NEVER shoot steel shot in a full choke": That used to be the advice give, esp. with fixed full choke guns. Newer guns with screw in chokes marked for steel are safe to use. I bring this up because I shoot an 870 with choke tubes, and my "full" tube is marked " for lead or steel".
3" inch shotshells should be fine; I still use 2 3/4 inch handloads. The thing you want to look for is speed....faster is generally better than a bigger payload with steel. In a 3" hull, look for something with a 1 1/8 oz payload and as fast (I like 1500 fps) as you can find!
Shot size? Do you know what kind of ducks you will be hunting? If bigger ducks (mallards, pintails, etc), go with larger pellets, such as #2s...if smaller ducks (teal, wood ducks), you may want to try #4 steel. I use #3 steel in my handloads as a compromise, but I rarely see it in factory shells.
Brand? I would suggest staying away from the "cheap" promo stuff....I've cut those shells open and it looked to me like they swept the rejects off the floor and stuffed them in the shells!!! I would stick with the "higher end" stuff from the ammo makers.....before I started handloading I used Winchester Supremes and they worked very well for me.
I know you said you weren't worried about clothing, but I will offer this piece of advice: Get yourself a good camo headnet....it can mean the difference between bagging birds and having them flare when they see your face shining in the blind.
Good luck, good hunting, and keep us posted on your success....


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Modified and steel 2's or 3's and only take shots you are confident you can make.

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I have been quite pleased with the Kent Faststeel 12 gauge, 3" 1-1/4 oz. load (have used #2, #3 & #4 loads). I've been using the Kent for the past three years (since WIN Drylok shells went from $15/box to $24/box) - the Kent's are still about $15/box. I shoot them with an IMP choke in a Browning Auto-5 Magnum or a PatternMaster LR in the Benelli M-2. Hope you have a great duck hunt!


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Lots of good advice. If you are shooting over decoys, I would say you could even open up to Imp Cyl. I only use 2-3/4" shells, #3 is ideal for mallard size, go to #4 for teal. But look for at least 1500 fps, rather than a heavier payload. Take TWO boxes with you, not just one. Nothing worse than running out of ammo during a hunt.

But more importantly than your original question, is are you a capable wingshooter? If this is all new to you, spend a couple of sessions at the local skeet field. Do at least four rounds of skeet to build some experience. On the marsh is an awful place to 'shoot all the misses out of your gun' (you know that saying, right?). Rather than having a frustrating day in the blind with two empty shell boxes and no birds, you'll have greater enjoyment and success.


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Odessa and grouseman have it right - use an open choke. Steel patterns tighter and a PATTERN is your friend. I shoot kent too, and prefer #3. If you hit them they die. I shoot both 2-3/4 inch and 3" shells. Not enough data to say which is best.

Another issue is whether you expect to have a shot at geese. IF so, you need to have some larger shot - at least BB - for early season grouse. Later in the season, when the polar geese come down, you will need BBB or T to drop them - they can have more than 1" of down and BB doesn't get their attention.

Most of all, just plan to enjoy the experience. If you were found in a swamp in the mud without a gun and duck license, you would be committed. . what does that say about us duk hunters? We are special and know a great time when we an have it!

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I've killed big birds a LOT with #4 steel. 3 inch loads. Its my early season go to load.
Teal I run 2.75 #6 steel. Or the go to load.

I shot a lot of 3s and found they did fine, generally, but when the going got tough I was a hair better with 2s, so I now buy cases of 2s and cases of 4s in 3 inch. If I'm going to shoot 3.5s for geese or such, its 1s or bbs

Speed helps with penetration, I try to buy 14-1500ish fps loads.


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I hate steel and refuse to shoot it in my guns though it can be effective and is relatively cheap.

I use Kent's Tungsten Matrix, just about but not quite the equal of lead at 10.6 gms/cc while lead is just over 11 IIRC. And, it's "soft" like bismuth (but denser) and can be used in finer guns without the worry of scoring a barrel. A M choke will be good and since it's about like lead, size "5" would be good for ducks. "1s" for geese.

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Quote
but I will offer this piece of advice: Get yourself a good camo headnet....it can mean the difference between bagging birds and having them flare when they see your face shining in the blind.

That and bare hands are the most common mistakes I've seen when watching ducks flare away from hunters. Hate headnets so I wear a baseball cap with a long bill to keep my face (and glasses!) in a shadow. The uninsulated hood up loose to hide the back of my neck and ears and the lightest gloves the weather permits. (It depends on if your blind, if you'll be using one, keeps the shiny parts in shadows, be prepared in case not.)

Once I actually saw a guy on the edge of a slough wearing a white cowboy hat. Had a young kid with him, about 40 yards away, who was throwing rocks in the slough. Don't be that guy. laugh

Now for shells and choke, if they're really coming into the decoys I like #4 2-3/4 and skeet tube opens up the pattern a bit. With steel, modified patterns best in my particular shotgun, tighter makes the patterns uneven. But #2/3"/modified is fine as it allows you to reach out a bit if they're skittish.

We always have some 3" BB or BBB in a pocket in case geese show up.


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.
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Oh yeah, taking one box guarantees you'll end up borrowing shells. Two boxes and you get your birds quickly and get to razz the other guy for running out of shells.

Makes no sense but it seems like it always works out that way. Particularly with pheasants - I could plan on my cousin's kids to run short. But worked out cheaper for them rather than buying an extra box. laugh


The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh

Which explains a lot.

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