Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns 10mm Options for Hunting

What problems are you referring to? Any references you could direct me to? Anyone else having problems? It sounded like some posters were reloading for the 10mm.

Dean

this right here ^


have had some issues with BB in the past, not in a handgun but in a long gun.

still like Tim, but I got a bad batch of his ammo

Unsupported case heads, case separations, Glock-kabooms. Do a search here and elsewhere.

Why would handloaders have these problems and ammo companies do not? Are handloaders trying to get too much velocity? Would they have problems at a less than max load? Still, you don't buy a Ferrari to drive 30mph. If you wanted lower velocities, you might as well buy a 40 S&W. Companies like Doubletap and Underwood load max loads and I have not heard of problems. Have I missed something?

Dean

340mag,

Have you tried these in a Glock? Results? Did you have to go to a heavier spring? The price seems reasonable.

Thanks for your help,
Dean

Like I said earlier, I've shot a bunch of the Buffalo Bore 220gr Hard Cast loads through my Factory Stock Glock 20. With the Factory recoil spring.
I've shot even more of my Handloads, using the 200 gr XTP HP at over 1300 FPS, again, with my Factory Stock Glock 20 & Factory Stock Recoil Spring.

Still not a problem one with my Glock or the Ammo. Also use those same loads regularly in my Kimber. Match Target 1911 in 10mm. Again, no problems whatsoever.

I load for a glock 20, for which i obtained a aftermarket kkm barrel to get around any issues with leading, and i think it is tighter than the factory barrel, and offers more case support. I also increased the recoil spring to a heavier number. I also don't try to get the last inch of velocity out of it. Having said that i have shot lead and jacketed bullets from around 155 grain to over 200 grains.
I settled on a 180 grain jhp for most usage, but also cast a hart cast 200 grain lead keith style bullet at aroun 1200 on the speed scale. You definitely want to put a crimp such as a taper on any of these type of rounds including the .40s&w. I measure after crimp to see if it is the same as a factory round. I was just looking at some .41magnum loads today, which is one of my favorite calibers. The ten will not get up to what a .41mag is capable but it gets it in the ball park with a lot of loads. And you get more than six rounds.
I shot an elk in the head a couple of years ago with a .41mag and a gold dot 210 grainer. It hit her so hard it bulged her eyes out. I think the glock with a similar bullet and maybe a little slower than what i loaded the .41 too would have done the same thing.
I use mostly accurate powder in the reloads for several reasons one of which is consistency in meteroing. You can find a lot of info on the 10mm on the glock forum where some of the experimentation i would tread lightly on some of the loads. But still a lot of info. I think underwood as posted some of their stuff on their too from memory.

New Once fired brass is not likely too rupture, reloads have already been fired and may have been burgled where the case was unsupported this area is weakened increasing the likely hood of a ruptured case.

This is definitely true. High intensity auto rounds will have some bulge. If you have ever used a good ultrasonic cleaner, you can see "sometimes" a tear on the interior surface after sizing. Even when the exterior looks good. Not always, but it only take one. If you load hot, inspect your cases after sizing very carefully. Pushing pressures and number of reloads per case has to be done carefully.

No doubt good advise from Gibby

On my hot handloads, I only use new brass. That brass gets loaded the second time with my plinking loads, which is a 155 grain hard cast RN bullet at medium velocitys.

You guys are not helping me here!
I'm trying really hard not go buy a G20Gen4 that a local shop is selling for $516+tax.
This kinda talk is not helping at all.
I should have never sold my 3rd Gen G20SF.
Freaking 10MM madness!!

That is what I do also.


When you look back on the history of the 10mm, it was all Norma brass. Very good stuff. Loaded hot, 200 grain bullets at 1300fps. Nowadays most are reduced from that. The problem arises sometimes from reloading brass from the mass producers. Starline brass uses good virgin brass with a different grain structure. Then heat treated.

Another mistake by some handgun reloaders. When your loading at the top, in an auto pistol. You may not get the same amount of loads out of your brass as you do in your wheel guns. Don't expect it.

Gibby is spot on in both posts above.

A gen4 20 for $516? You better jump on that. I have been shooting underwood 220 hardcasts through mine and they have worked great in the trial stages.

In Tenn. You must have a 4-in. Bbl on a handgun to hunt legally, yet "any CF cartridge" is legal.

So if you have a 4- in. Bbl in your Beretta .25 ACP, you're good, but a G29 is too ineffective.

I'm torn between getting a Canadian-length G29 bbl from Lone Wolf or just going for a G20.

Since I wasn't hunting tonight I carried the G29 loaded with 11 DT 135s, a G20 mag in pouch w 15 WW 175 STs and another G20 mag in hip pocket w DT 200 gr WFNGCs.

Felt pretty well-heeled for drug addict felons through killer whales. I'd probably run DT 165-gr. Bonded JHPs for deer or black bear...