Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing not enough adjustment in my scope

I've been playing with an M722 Remington .257 Roberts for a while, and recently restocked it. I really like the little rifle. I'm not sure how many times it's been fired, but I suspect...quite a bit. I haven't taken a bore scope to it yet, and prolly won't.
It shoots nice and every now and again sneaks a tight group out. I like to use it for coyote calling, as it will reach out a bit, too. I keep it in the back of my mind that I will put another barrel on it with about the same contour. I would prefer a slightly shorter throat on it, so I can run pointed bullets through it, and load through the magazine, too. My first "fix" on the gun was to extend the magazine-well, but I didn't replace the follower...yet.
The problem....I can't adjust the scope enough. I know that from time to time the earlier M722-721 actions came from the factory with the action a little "off" because of the action being heat-treated after machining. I've seen M700s with the same problem. It doesn't
happen very often, but it does happen.
Usually, the people I know just take 'em down to the nearest gunshow, and palm 'em off on someone else. I think that's
what happened with this one. (I got it as a "bonus" in a trade)
I don't want to trade it off, I'm bull-headed. I'm sure there is some way I can modify my mount, but I'm not sure what. Any ideas?
I have a bridge-type mount on it, but I do have a Weaver two-piece on my other M722, which, unfortunately, is a .300 Savage that shoots like a charm.
If anyone has an idea, I'd sure like to know what it is.
Thank you,
Gene

What type of scope base, Leupold, Weaver? What is the problem, elevation, windage? More info please.

Burris Signature Rings on your existing base should be the ticket. They offer eccentric offset inserts that should allow you to get the scope on target with the scope adjustments centered. This is the desired condition. Plus they eliminate the need for ring lapping and will not mar the scope tube.

http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings.html

RAN

The problem I have is not enough elevation. When the adjustment is close to on at 100yds, the adjustment is screwed up so fgar that it rubs on the inside of the scope-cap.
The scope is a Weaver K10 steel-tube El Paso. I know it's old, but so am I, lol.
The mount is a Talley bridge-type with universal design...1/4 turn and windage-adjustment screws.
I was just about to put metal shims under the mount, but the Burris offset rings looks like a great idea. Their website doesn't show a price. Where can I get the price?
I MAY get to use this rifle after all.
Thanks a million.
Gene

Just shim under the base on one end. I think the rear base. I might be wrong on that though, it's been awhile since I had to do it. A piece of aluminum beer or pop can would do it. Might need double thickness if the scope is all the way to the end of adjustment.

Saddlesore-I just took everything apart and built two shims from an Arizona tea can. Each one is .001", and of course put them under the front part of the mount. I couldn't bore-sight it, so put them under the rear. Now it appears to be close. I'll know more when I get to the range, and get a few shots downrange.
I like the offset rings idea, but it'll be a bit getting them here. This way I can, at least, user the rifle.
Thanks all, for the help,
Gene

Set the elevation settings to mid point, then as saddlesore said, shim until you get close.

Elevation is easy. Windage can get tricky...but your bridge mount should cover that.

Are you sure you are moving the adjustment in the correct direction? When you are shooting high, the adjustment needs to be down. It ain't the first time I have seen this happen.

Jkob- actually I'm NOT sure. I did a quick bore-sight, and the adjustment was wrong, so I turned around and did it the other way. I ran the adjustment down, then moved the shims. It seemed to line the crosshairs up. I'll know when I get to the range, but I don't get to go on weekends. I go during the middle of the week when I'm the only one there.
Thank you,
Gene

THIS.

For shim stock it can be as simple as cut or folded aluminum foil. Another decent source is an old feeler gauge, but those are hard to cut because they're very hard.

A collimator (bore sighter) is very handy for shimming.

Brass shim stock, in various thickness, is available at most auto supply stores ie NAPA and it won't corrode.-Muddy

There should be up/down indicators on your turret adjustments. The arrow refers to the direction you want your point of impact on the target to move.

These are nominally either 1/4 or 1/2 inch per click at 100 yards.

Nominally. Sometimes they are even right - but only actually shooting groups will tell. On "new" stuff, I use 3 shot groups, the center of these 3 holes is what I assume to be my real POI.

You might google up one piece canted base, they come in various angles; I have a 20moa canted base on a 308. Lots of folks are making them these days. It kicks the arse end up so you get more up travel MOA inside the scope.

In all these years, I never knew that...why the hell did I not know brass shim stock can be found at an auto parts store? Thanks!!

I always got mine at "Hobby Shops", places that are full of scale models, or RC type toys.

Ran into a similar issue just a few weeks back on a 700. Burris Sigs in DDs solved the problem. Had to put +20 inserts rear and -20inserts in the front to get it within 4" at 200 with the adjustments centered.

A possible source of your problem could be that Remington changed the height of the rear receiver bridge at some point during the production of the M700, and I'm guessing that the 722 would be the same as the earlier version.

I've seen a reference to this, with the specific measurements, but I don't know where to find it. My very vague recollection is around .017, but I could be completely wrong on that.

Paul

When were the 722's in production?

Brownell's will sell you a small assortment of steel shim stock if you want the shim to extend to the edges of the base - no gaps - and you don't want to show a line of brass or aluminum. (I know, fussy fussy.) Maybe auto parts stores have this too?

I had the same problem with an older Leupold, tried fooling around with shims with lackluster results. in the end the cure was to mount a brand new VXII on the old rifle. I now have enough adjustment to sight in.