Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Newbie needs help

Hi all.
After waiting what seems like my whole life, I recently acquired my dads 300 Savage 99. The serial number is 7363XX and the LBC is 20E. I believe it was made in 1953 in Chicopee Falls, MA. Is that correct and is there anything else you can tell me from the serial number?
Unfortunately, it's not exactly as I remembered it when I last saw it some 50 years ago.
You see my brother hunted with it for a couple of years back in the 80's and it has been in a vinyl, zippered gun case, inside a canvas snowboard bag, in his basement ever since. In a move, he had lost track of it.
Ten years ago, I asked him about it and he reluctantly told me that he didn't know where it was. I was seriously bummed.
But, last weekend he called and said that he had found it!
When he told me where, I knew it was probably ruined. But, when I picked it up, I was very pleasantly surprised. Yes, the stock was very dry with some light colored water spots, the bore and the action were full of fabric dust from the inside of the case and there were a few surface rust spots on the bluing. But, other than that, nothing! After a little cleaning and dusting, a patch or two of Hoppe's 9 and oil down the bore, I'm certain that with the right kind of TLC, I can bring back to most of her former beauty. Can you please recommend the correct method/product to repair the water spots and dried wood? What was the original finish? There are a few scratches on the barrel also. Should I consider having her hot blued?
I have no interest in the resale value. But, I do want to bring her back, hunt with her and someday leave her to my kids.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Fuzz

If the metal finish is not that bad then I say leave it alone. Right now it looks more like Dad's gun then it will with a modern hot blue job. I would use any modern finish that does not give you a high build. If you do refinish the stock and leave the original blue alone, take care to match the new wood finish to the metal as nothing sticks out as bad as an older rifle with honest wear sporting an obviously shiny new refinished stock. I aim to make the stock look like someone took real good care of the wood from the day the rifle left the factory when doing this kind of work.

S99VG, as I recall, the stock seemed to be an oiled finish. Not glossy at all, just a low luster. I'd like to know what the factory finish actually was.

Without seeing the stock, I would recommend one of two things. Old West Snake oil is good for dry stocks, though too much of it can sometimes darken the color. That would be my first choice. No need to remove the stock for this, the stuff will protect the metal also without drying and leaving a hard residue.

Second would be to rub a couple of thin coats of tung oil on (remove the stock for this). As long as you don't put too much on it can be like the original finish.

It is a 1953 rifle. Two models were made at that time. The 99EG has a thin forearm with a schnabel tip and wasn't drilled and tapped for scope bases and didn't have sling studs or eyes. The 99R has a fat and wide firearm and came d&t for scope bases and came with sling eyes. Both are great hunting rifles.

F. Badger...

I'd use an old gunsmith's "trick" on the surface rust on the metal...

Get some super fine steel wool... I believe it's called "4-F" or possibly "5-F" steel wool, can't remember which... but get the FINEST grade of steel wool. It should feel "soft" and not like it's made of steel. Spray some WD40 on the steel wool and VERY LIGHTLY rub the steel wool on the surface rust on the rifle's metal.

Do NOT rub too hard or not only the rust will "disappear", but the bluing will also "disappear.

I bought an old, used muzzle-loading, black powder rifle that was covered with surface rust. Because it was so "rusty" looking, I was able to buy it for just $25. I used this same method (fine steel wool and WD40) on most of the rifle's metal parts and now, the rifle looks almost like new. All the surface rust is gone and except in one small place where I rubbed too hard, the rifle's bluing is totally in-tact and very nice-looking.

I realize this sounds "crazy", but... no joke... it WORKS !~!~!


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

Try not to use steel wool (3/0, or 4/0 being the finest weaves), as it leaves little steel threads in the dark corners where it starts to rust, then gets the gun metal rusty.

Bronze wool is a better choice, but a little harder to come by. Synthetic coarse cloth (like green scrubby-things, or better, the softer blue ones) aren't as damaging.

But as said, leaving it as is will more of a reminder of your Father's use, in my opinion.

+1 on the bronze wool.

My point with wood finish is that many modern products can mimic the original oil finish while providing better protection. I like Prostock Gunstock Finish as you can keep it in the wood and maintain the rifle's original look. That is if you choose to redo your stock. Best of luck.

Refinishing is the last thing to try, imho. Yes, a refinish can be made to look exactly like an original finish, but that's 1 out of 100 that actually work out that way (especially the checkering). If possible, best to keep it as honest as possible. If restoring the stock doesn't work, then you can refinish.


Don't know if anybody mentioned it, but if you are wanting to cover just a couple scratches on the barrel you might consider just hitting those spots with cold blue rather than an entire reblue. I would never suggest that for a collectible, but for an heirloom it's not going to hurt anything and cold blue touchups can usually be made to blend in pretty good.

*****************************************************************

While I've never noticed any "dark corners" on a rifle barrel... especially after I wiped down the entire barrel and other metal parts with a lightly oiled, leather-backed lamb's wool I use to keep all my firearms from getting any rust on 'em... but it seems that bronze wool would work as well or possibly better since the bronze wool would eliminate ANY possibility of leaving any little steel threads anywhere.

Frankly, I never heard of "bronze wool" until Jeff G. mentioned it in this thread, but it obviously can be found... somewhere. Nothing was said about "bronze wool" when I purchased the very fine steel wool from the local hardware store, but I'm glad to know that bronze wool exists.

I guess one can always learn something new 'most any time... even at my age, eh?

Ron T.

I use the bronze wool pads found on amazon. With oil cannot be beat for taking of minor rust blemish while preserving the blue.

last I heard - browells has it, I got some from them a wnile ago. Mel

Thanks everyone for your advise.

Regarding the stock:
I do think restoration is the way to go. My concern at this point, is that no matter what oil I use, it will darken the wood (as expected) uniformly and not blend the lighter water spots with the surrounding darker wood.
The stock is a medium light walnut that I really like. So, I would prefer not to use a stain to blend the spots unless there is no alternative.

Regarding the metal:
Wish I knew how to post pics.
I guess "surface rust" might be the wrong term. What I have is probably more like a very light pitting. there are 2 or 3 spots on the blued barrel and a few on the case hardened lever. All are about 1/8"-1/4" in diameter.
There is a gouge (no doubt from a fall against a rock) that is on top of the receiver, just behind the stamp "Savage Model 99", at the edge of the receiver opening. I didn't mention it previously, because if figured nothing could be done to repair it.
If anyone has any ideas, I would be happy to email pics for you to evaluate.
Thanks to all for your time and advise.
Fuzz

Well...

The steel or bronze wool won't help "pitting"... it's just "there-for-life", as far as I know.

But... HEY... so it's got a few rusty place... no "biggie". It's a HUNTING RIFLE... and it is gonna get some "dings" and "scratches". They give the rifle "character", don't cha know?


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

Any oil will darken the wood a bit because its probably a little on the dry side right now. Woodcraft sell a bleaching solution that may work on the dark spots. Apply it carefully, a little at a time, with a Q-tip until it blends. I have also experimented with bleach using the same technique.

As far as the pits are concerned, just tell everyone its factory engraving

S99VG
The dark spots aren't really aren't spots. It's the normal color of the stock.
Oh well guys. Thanks for your help and advise. I'm gonna do something. Even if it's wrong.
Fuzz

Best of luck!

This old Savage 110 stock had some tape damage and some black water staining. I stripped this stock with lacquer thinner, a brush and a shallow pan. When done, let it dry. Then bleached it to remove all the black water stains, which took lots of soaking. It looked white like driftwood. Then I stained it, and have yet to proceed with sealing it. You decide if it worked.

Wow, I'd say that worked very nice! How did you proceed with the bleaching?